Car won't start after timing belt maintenance!

#1

I need some diagnostic help for a car that won’t start after I compeleted the timing belt maintenance. The car cranks but will not fire. Every couple of seconds there is a muffled whoomp sound but not indication that it’s trying to fire.

What I did was:
-timing belt
-water pump
-distributor cap
-distributor rotor
-cam shaft seal/O ring
-removed engine fan and installed electric fan. That works!

Can someone suggest a step by step process to try and diagnose why she won’t start.

Thanks.

Keith

#2

just a guess … if that small wire coming from the battery isn’t connected, the car will crank but not start - any chance you didn’t reconnect all the wires if you disconnected any?
cheers,
bruce

#3

Not sure what small wire from the battery you are talking about??? Can you tell me more?

the only electrical connections I made was to run a wire from the positive terminal in the engine compartment to a switch on console to power the electric fan. I then tied that back to the switched side of the radiator temperature switch.

Keith

#4

make sure the crank/pulse sensor is connected

#5

Connected up by the dipstick and attached down below by the crankshaft toothed vibration damper…

#6

I would check the coil wire from the distributor cap - sometimes the wire will separate from the connector - usually on the coil end.
Ed

#7

Well i pulled a couple of plugs and tried to crank the car. Both plugs had a spark firing about once per/second. Does that sound about right while cranking?

Keith

#8

There are 2 plugs on the drivers side between the throttle body and the distributor cap. Sometimes those plugs and get switched when doing the project you’ve done… double check those.

#9

Assume you are talking about the two connectors immediately in front of oil dipstick. The connector farther away from engine is connected to the crankshaft sensor. Not sure what the one closest to engine is connected to?

Keith

#10

So if I’m getting a spark once/second on plugs while out of the block while cranking, does that eliminate ignition issues?

If so, what’s next to try?

#11

there are large and small wires attached to the positive battery terminal

smithk3933 wrote:

[quote]Not sure what small wire from the battery you are talking about??? Can you tell me more?

the only electrical connections I made was to run a wire from the positive terminal in the engine compartment to a switch on console to power the electric fan. I then tied that back to the switched side of the radiator temperature switch.

Keith[/quote]

#12

Keith - the spark cycle sounds OK. It kinda sounds like the timing may be off. Did you rotate the crank a few times to make sure the marks lined up after you put the belt on?

#13

Yes, pretty sure I did… loosened the tensioner, rotated two complete revolutions and then tightened the tensioner… sound OK?

#14

All vaccume lines hooked up? How about the AFM? Did you bump the main relay by chance? At this point, I usually retrace my steps on the work I did and make sure everything was put back or hooked up correctly.

Good Luck!

#15

Keith - I’m no pro at this, but did you check it with the tensioner on? If you have spark (eliminates the coil issue), and you have fuel, and you have power (starter is rotating), unless the crank sensor if off (either plug or location) or the AFM is unplugged you should start, assuming nothing else happened. Based on what you did, still seems like timing may be the issue.
Ed

#16

Did the engine run prior to timing belt replacement?

  1. Remove all spark plugs, replace if wet, light coat threads w/antiseaze, gap @.028".
  2. Check compression.
  3. Check ignition wires, coil wire for correct installation on distributer cap.
  4. Remove distributor cap and inspect distributor rotor for damage & proper install.
  5. Set camshaft & crankshaft at TDC, check for proper installation.
  6. Switch TDC connector, Temperature sensor behind engine oil dipstick.
  7. Check for adequate fuel in tank:dry: , fuel pressure, fuses, pump relay, fuel pump.

If all fails, feel free to call me,

Karl M. Bosch
303 594-1340 MST

#17

OK here’s the latest in my saga:

I had forgotten that I normally hear the fuel pump running when I switch the ignition on. But now, nothing, dead quiet. Out comes the Bentley. If I read correctly, the middle of the 3 relays is the fuel pump relay.

  1. Checked fuse #11 and AOK
  2. Jumpered the #30 socket to test light to ground. Voltage present
  3. Jumpered the #30 socket to the #87 socket, no pump sounds
  4. Pulled the two pin connector from the fuel pump on the passenger side and put test light between the two connectors of wire, no voltage…

I assume this means I have something wrong between the relay socket and the fuel pump! Can’t imagine how I screwed this up changing timing belt.

To confirm the fuel pump is working, can I connect a 12 volt source directly to the fuel pump while still mounted. I’ll be sure to connect the ends to the pump first and then connect to an external power source. Don’t want a spark back there!

What is the pump on the driver’s side under rear seat area?

KEith

#18

Only other item I noticed was that the fuel level according to the gage was down around 1/8th tank. I had the front of car on jack stands for a couple of weeks while working on the TB/WP. Don’t know if that could have effected anything? Looks like the pump should at least try to run…

#19

What year is your car?

88+ model years had a single in tank pump, under the access panel on the pssenger side. Earlier ones had dual pumps - one on the pass. side, and other one external inside the rocker on the driver side near the rear wheel.

The access panel on the driver side is for a level sender, not a pump.

If its an 88+. give the pump a good whack on the top while its in the tank - that sometimes jump starts a dying pump. :slight_smile:

#20

OK… I think I’m making some progress. I now think the problem is the Fuel Pump Relay. I spent an hour or so last night running all the test on the relay/sockets of the middle relay as shown in the Bentley. It seemed that all the socket tests matched, only problem it’s the wrong relay!

Mine seems to be the relay closet to the front of the car. sure enough I jumpered pin #30 with #87 and fuel pump started to sing! Then tested the relay and no clicking!!! Eureka!

I want to wait until daylight to try and restart 'ol #60 for the spring 2008 season… but I feel sure it will have a better chance of starting with a fuel pump that’s pumping! Keeping fingers crossed.

Got to love these cars.