Wish I'd Knowed That...Lessons Learned in Car Prep

#18

Patton wrote:

Dateline: Mansfield, Ohio
September 11, 2011

“Man, we learned today just how fast those East Coast Spec E30 drivers are!” sighed the dejected West Coast contingent in unison. “We put up a good fight the last couple years at Horsepower Central (a/k/a Miller Motorsports Park - ed) but at the finesse track known as Mid Ohio Sports Car Course, we got our asses handed to us” said [NAME WITHHELD TO PROTECT THE INNOCENT], a former West Coast standout who was mired mid-pack. “But at least I can say I raced against the best!”

#19

Problem: Coil mount breaks free from inner fender and coil bounces around doing bad things.
Solution: Weld mount to the inner fender or drill and run a bolt through from the wheel well.

#20

Steve D wrote:

[quote]Patton wrote:

Dateline: Mansfield, Ohio
September 11, 2011

“Man, we learned today just how fast those East Coast Spec E30 drivers are!” sighed the dejected West Coast contingent in unison. “We put up a good fight the last couple years at Horsepower Central (a/k/a Miller Motorsports Park - ed) but at the finesse track known as Mid Ohio Sports Car Course, we got our asses handed to us” said [NAME WITHHELD TO PROTECT THE INNOCENT], a former West Coast standout who was mired mid-pack. “But at least I can say I raced against the best!”[/quote]

I like to see a man who is willing to call somebody out a year in advance. NASA will appreciate your efforts to bump up the entries. If my ego were not so frail I would respond to your remark in some witty way. Sense all our tracks in California are HP tracks especially Infineon, I have accepted your bait and bit deep.

I think I will let you guys get practiced up back there for an extra year and then when you are good and ready I will come back there in 2012 with some California Cheese for your future Wine.

Sorry I have allowed myself to be draw off topic.B)

#21

the Shoe wrote:

[quote]Steve D wrote:

[quote]Patton wrote:

Dateline: Mansfield, Ohio
September 11, 2011

“Man, we learned today just how fast those East Coast Spec E30 drivers are!” sighed the dejected West Coast contingent in unison. “We put up a good fight the last couple years at Horsepower Central (a/k/a Miller Motorsports Park - ed) but at the finesse track known as Mid Ohio Sports Car Course, we got our asses handed to us” said [NAME WITHHELD TO PROTECT THE INNOCENT], a former West Coast standout who was mired mid-pack. “But at least I can say I raced against the best!”[/quote]

I like to see a man who is willing to call somebody out a year in advance. NASA will appreciate your efforts to bump up the entries. If my ego were not so frail I would respond to your remark in some witty way. Sense all our tracks in California are HP tracks especially Infineon, I have accepted your bait and bit deep.

I think I will let you guys get practiced up back there for an extra year and then when you are good and ready I will come back there in 2012 with some California Cheese for your future Wine.

Sorry I have allowed myself to be draw off topic.B)[/quote]

Nichols, you bring that sh#t. By 2012, some of our HPDE E30 fellas will have their comp license; I bet they’ll spank your a$$ too!

#22

FishMan wrote:

[quote]
Nichols, you bring that sh#t. By 2012, some of our HPDE E30 fellas will have their comp license; I bet they’ll spank your a$$ too![/quote]

West coast LL: East of the mississippi they know how to race. East of the mississippi they know how to talk Smack.

We do have a lot to learn out here.

I love reading stuff that makes me smile.:slight_smile:

You better keep training those HPDE guys, cause you are goin’ keep losing some of your guys to the pros like Skeen and maybe Hans, Juice Boy, and the King.

It would be sweet to enjoy the hospitality of the Mid-West and see another National Battle up close.

Nichols

#23

Problem: Bitch clip is a BITCH to remove (That is the clip that slides through the bushed end of the shift arm - connecting it to the top of the tranny)
Solution: spread, flatten or remove the tab the keeps the bitch clip from swinging up OR just use a bolt instead.)

Problem: Hex bolts on top of diff are hard to reach
Solution: cut holes in trunk over the bolts big enough for a socket on an extention to reach the bolts

Problem: hex bolts on top of diff are hard to align/thread into the diff
Solution: Replace bolts that screw from the top with studs mounted in the diff and a nut on top (easier to thread a nut on top once the stud is through the hole than to thread the bolt from above)

#24

dherrington wrote:

[quote]Problem: Bitch clip is a BITCH to remove (That is the clip that slides through the bushed end of the shift arm - connecting it to the top of the tranny)
Solution: spread, flatten or remove the tab the keeps the bitch clip from swinging up OR just use a bolt instead.)

Problem: Hex bolts on top of diff are hard to reach
Solution: cut holes in trunk over the bolts big enough for a socket on an extention to reach the bolts

Problem: hex bolts on top of diff are hard to align/thread into the diff
Solution: Replace bolts that screw from the top with studs mounted in the diff and a nut on top (easier to thread a nut on top once the stud is through the hole than to thread the bolt from above)[/quote]

These are really good ideas!! The bitch clip isn’t that bad once you’ve done it a couple times. My trick is to use a large pick, it will pop the clip every time. Got the idea from this thread.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=16845764&postcount=24

#25

dherrington wrote:

[quote]
Problem: Hex bolts on top of diff are hard to reach
Solution: cut holes in trunk over the bolts big enough for a socket on an extention to reach the bolts

Problem: hex bolts on top of diff are hard to align/thread into the diff
Solution: Replace bolts that screw from the top with studs mounted in the diff and a nut on top (easier to thread a nut on top once the stud is through the hole than to thread the bolt from above)[/quote]

Hmmm . Those ideas are very clever.

#26

Problem: Diff bolts do not line up on the bottom two bolts.
Solution: use long 19mm bolt and come in from the bottom to get the alignment/twist out of the diff. Then bring your short bolt in from the top.

Great tip on the bitch clip. Mine is now a 13mm bolt/ny-loc nut that is finger tight.

RP

#27

Just did the clevis pins on the hood hinge… I feel so intelligent; now i just need to visit homedepot again and find some easy way to rig a disconnect in the washer fluid line:huh:

#28

[quote=“Matt H.” post=52823]Problem: Coil mount breaks free from inner fender and coil bounces around doing bad things.
Solution: Weld mount to the inner fender or drill and run a bolt through from the wheel well.[/quote]

I wanted to add that I put a couple bolts through my coil bracket before running this weekend after reading this along with zip tieing my brake reservoir and relays.

#29

[quote=“King Tut” post=58340][quote=“Matt H.” post=52823]Problem: Coil mount breaks free from inner fender and coil bounces around doing bad things.
Solution: Weld mount to the inner fender or drill and run a bolt through from the wheel well.[/quote]

I wanted to add that I put a couple bolts through my coil bracket before running this weekend after reading this along with zip tieing my brake reservoir and relays.[/quote]
I wish that I had read this before this spring… My coil fell off, grounded on the exhaust manifold, and fried the wire harness. NOT FUN… Also, expensive :frowning:

#30

After racing 2 different E30’s with M20’s for the last 7 years I finally had my first rocker arm break. This was on an engine that was built in Sept. '08 with new BMW OE rockers. Luckily Kevin Sweeney had some spares. The rocker that broke was #3 intake. The amazing thing about this is that it only took about 15 minutes to change the rocker after removing plugs, and valve cover. You ask how was this done??

During a previous life this chassis must have had a previous engine break a rocker arm. When I got the chassis there was a small plate glued to the firewall behind the head. Under this plate was a hole in the firewall aligned up with the rod that holds the intake rocker arms on. There was even a hole in the AC evaporator where the rod was driven into the hole. Now without a heater core or fan there was plenty of room to slide the rod through the firewall. No need to remove the radiator or the distributor and such. Also, being a fairly new rebuild and using synthetic oil there were no deposits or gunk along the shaft. It slid out fairly easy.

So, put a hole in your firewall behind the head and those rocker arm changes are a breeze.

#31

Problem: Alternator is inop after removing the factory cluster.

Solution: The alternator has to be energized at startup by the battery idiot light circuit or rewired into an ignition on(green wire) or relay.

#32

Get the wiring diagram and look for the blue cluster connector. I think it is terminals 15 and 16 that go to the alt. light. Install a diode between the two terminals and everything is wonderful. (You’ll probably get it wrong the first time so reverse the diode.) Chuck

#33

[quote=“turbo329is” post=59949]Problem: Alternator is inop after removing the factory cluster.

Solution: The alternator has to be energized at startup by the battery idiot light circuit or rewired into an ignition on(green wire) or relay.[/quote]

I know that’s true on a lot of cars, but I don’t think it is for E30s. I drove mine without a cluster (or dash, or…anything) 2+ hours each way to my rollcager, no issues.

#34

[quote=“cheapthrills” post=59981][quote=“turbo329is” post=59949]Problem: Alternator is inop after removing the factory cluster.

Solution: The alternator has to be energized at startup by the battery idiot light circuit or rewired into an ignition on(green wire) or relay.[/quote]

I know that’s true on a lot of cars, but I don’t think it is for E30s. I drove mine without a cluster (or dash, or…anything) 2+ hours each way to my rollcager, no issues.[/quote]

I don’t have an instrument cluster and my car charges just fine…

#35

[quote=“cheapthrills” post=59981][quote=“turbo329is” post=59949]Problem: Alternator is inop after removing the factory cluster.

Solution: The alternator has to be energized at startup by the battery idiot light circuit or rewired into an ignition on(green wire) or relay.[/quote]

I know that’s true on a lot of cars, but I don’t think it is for E30s. I drove mine without a cluster (or dash, or…anything) 2+ hours each way to my rollcager, no issues.[/quote]
Exciter current on an E30 is provided by the warning bulb in the cluster, or on late models by the bulb and a resistor in the cluster. If you remove the cluster you have to do something to provide exciter power to get the alternator to charge properly.

#36

It took me months to discover the problem. I thought i had a week battery and an ignition off current draw so i had to charge it a few times. It finally died pulling away from tech at autobahn and i would have been looking for an alternator if my brother wasn’t there.

#37

[quote=“turbo329is” post=59949]Problem: Alternator is inop after removing the factory cluster.

Solution: The alternator has to be energized at startup by the battery idiot light circuit or rewired into an ignition on(green wire) or relay.[/quote]

Boy I wish I had know this 12 months ago when building our replacement car. Took seven months before BTM Motorwerks figured this out for me. Dead batteries and replacing an alternator were no good. Wasted time and money, arghh.

We tapped the blue wire in the gauge cluster harness and all works fine until this past sunday when a bunch of the wires right at that spot where we tapped in burnt up! When this happened the Shift light began to dimmly glow and the tach (aftermarket) bounced around and the motor cut out. Thought I blew the motor.

Maybe the wires burned up because we did not use a resistor or Diode???