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dherrington wrote:
[quote]
Problem: Hex bolts on top of diff are hard to reach
Solution: cut holes in trunk over the bolts big enough for a socket on an extention to reach the bolts
Problem: hex bolts on top of diff are hard to align/thread into the diff
Solution: Replace bolts that screw from the top with studs mounted in the diff and a nut on top (easier to thread a nut on top once the stud is through the hole than to thread the bolt from above)[/quote]
Hmmm . Those ideas are very clever.
Problem: Diff bolts do not line up on the bottom two bolts.
Solution: use long 19mm bolt and come in from the bottom to get the alignment/twist out of the diff. Then bring your short bolt in from the top.
Great tip on the bitch clip. Mine is now a 13mm bolt/ny-loc nut that is finger tight.
RP
Just did the clevis pins on the hood hinge… I feel so intelligent; now i just need to visit homedepot again and find some easy way to rig a disconnect in the washer fluid line:huh:
[quote=“Matt H.” post=52823]Problem: Coil mount breaks free from inner fender and coil bounces around doing bad things.
Solution: Weld mount to the inner fender or drill and run a bolt through from the wheel well.[/quote]
I wanted to add that I put a couple bolts through my coil bracket before running this weekend after reading this along with zip tieing my brake reservoir and relays.
[quote=“King Tut” post=58340][quote=“Matt H.” post=52823]Problem: Coil mount breaks free from inner fender and coil bounces around doing bad things.
Solution: Weld mount to the inner fender or drill and run a bolt through from the wheel well.[/quote]
I wanted to add that I put a couple bolts through my coil bracket before running this weekend after reading this along with zip tieing my brake reservoir and relays.[/quote]
I wish that I had read this before this spring… My coil fell off, grounded on the exhaust manifold, and fried the wire harness. NOT FUN… Also, expensive 
After racing 2 different E30’s with M20’s for the last 7 years I finally had my first rocker arm break. This was on an engine that was built in Sept. '08 with new BMW OE rockers. Luckily Kevin Sweeney had some spares. The rocker that broke was #3 intake. The amazing thing about this is that it only took about 15 minutes to change the rocker after removing plugs, and valve cover. You ask how was this done??
During a previous life this chassis must have had a previous engine break a rocker arm. When I got the chassis there was a small plate glued to the firewall behind the head. Under this plate was a hole in the firewall aligned up with the rod that holds the intake rocker arms on. There was even a hole in the AC evaporator where the rod was driven into the hole. Now without a heater core or fan there was plenty of room to slide the rod through the firewall. No need to remove the radiator or the distributor and such. Also, being a fairly new rebuild and using synthetic oil there were no deposits or gunk along the shaft. It slid out fairly easy.
So, put a hole in your firewall behind the head and those rocker arm changes are a breeze.
Problem: Alternator is inop after removing the factory cluster.
Solution: The alternator has to be energized at startup by the battery idiot light circuit or rewired into an ignition on(green wire) or relay.
Get the wiring diagram and look for the blue cluster connector. I think it is terminals 15 and 16 that go to the alt. light. Install a diode between the two terminals and everything is wonderful. (You’ll probably get it wrong the first time so reverse the diode.) Chuck
[quote=“turbo329is” post=59949]Problem: Alternator is inop after removing the factory cluster.
Solution: The alternator has to be energized at startup by the battery idiot light circuit or rewired into an ignition on(green wire) or relay.[/quote]
I know that’s true on a lot of cars, but I don’t think it is for E30s. I drove mine without a cluster (or dash, or…anything) 2+ hours each way to my rollcager, no issues.
[quote=“cheapthrills” post=59981][quote=“turbo329is” post=59949]Problem: Alternator is inop after removing the factory cluster.
Solution: The alternator has to be energized at startup by the battery idiot light circuit or rewired into an ignition on(green wire) or relay.[/quote]
I know that’s true on a lot of cars, but I don’t think it is for E30s. I drove mine without a cluster (or dash, or…anything) 2+ hours each way to my rollcager, no issues.[/quote]
I don’t have an instrument cluster and my car charges just fine…
[quote=“cheapthrills” post=59981][quote=“turbo329is” post=59949]Problem: Alternator is inop after removing the factory cluster.
Solution: The alternator has to be energized at startup by the battery idiot light circuit or rewired into an ignition on(green wire) or relay.[/quote]
I know that’s true on a lot of cars, but I don’t think it is for E30s. I drove mine without a cluster (or dash, or…anything) 2+ hours each way to my rollcager, no issues.[/quote]
Exciter current on an E30 is provided by the warning bulb in the cluster, or on late models by the bulb and a resistor in the cluster. If you remove the cluster you have to do something to provide exciter power to get the alternator to charge properly.
It took me months to discover the problem. I thought i had a week battery and an ignition off current draw so i had to charge it a few times. It finally died pulling away from tech at autobahn and i would have been looking for an alternator if my brother wasn’t there.
[quote=“turbo329is” post=59949]Problem: Alternator is inop after removing the factory cluster.
Solution: The alternator has to be energized at startup by the battery idiot light circuit or rewired into an ignition on(green wire) or relay.[/quote]
Boy I wish I had know this 12 months ago when building our replacement car. Took seven months before BTM Motorwerks figured this out for me. Dead batteries and replacing an alternator were no good. Wasted time and money, arghh.
We tapped the blue wire in the gauge cluster harness and all works fine until this past sunday when a bunch of the wires right at that spot where we tapped in burnt up! When this happened the Shift light began to dimmly glow and the tach (aftermarket) bounced around and the motor cut out. Thought I blew the motor.
Maybe the wires burned up because we did not use a resistor or Diode???
[quote=“jlevie” post=59983][quote=“cheapthrills” post=59981][quote=“turbo329is” post=59949]Problem: Alternator is inop after removing the factory cluster.
Solution: The alternator has to be energized at startup by the battery idiot light circuit or rewired into an ignition on(green wire) or relay.[/quote]
I know that’s true on a lot of cars, but I don’t think it is for E30s. I drove mine without a cluster (or dash, or…anything) 2+ hours each way to my rollcager, no issues.[/quote]
Exciter current on an E30 is provided by the warning bulb in the cluster, or on late models by the bulb and a resistor in the cluster. If you remove the cluster you have to do something to provide exciter power to get the alternator to charge properly.[/quote]
If memory serves me right we put in a 15ohm resistor, shrunk it and been trouble free for 2 seasons.
[quote=“theShoe” post=60767][quote=“turbo329is” post=59949]Problem: Alternator is inop after removing the factory cluster.
Solution: The alternator has to be energized at startup by the battery idiot light circuit or rewired into an ignition on(green wire) or relay.[/quote]
Boy I wish I had know this 12 months ago when building our replacement car. Took seven months before BTM Motorwerks figured this out for me. Dead batteries and replacing an alternator were no good. Wasted time and money, arghh.
We tapped the blue wire in the gauge cluster harness and all works fine until this past sunday when a bunch of the wires right at that spot where we tapped in burnt up! When this happened the Shift light began to dimmly glow and the tach (aftermarket) bounced around and the motor cut out. Thought I blew the motor.
Maybe the wires burned up because we did not use a resistor or Diode???[/quote]
Give me a buzz/email. I spoke to Jeff about your wiring issues. Gotta be very careful what you tap. A 15ohm resistor between pin 15/16 with shrink is all you need.
Dan
When you remove all the stalks on the steering column except the one for the wipers you need to provide a new ground to it.
Then when you weld you’re quick disconnect to the column and forget the ground cable on the floor of the car for the last weld said wire will make fireworks. Common mistake but this is the first time it’s had consequences.
[quote=“Steve D” post=52761]Here is an old thread with some useful hints from the grizzled veterans.
I wish I had known that automatic donors cone with 4.10 diffs.[/quote]
Lots of good stuff in this thread, but it looks like Steve’s link has broken. For future reference, I believe the (even older) thread referenced was:
http://spece30.com/forum/3-getting-started/27661-common-failures
Stumbled across this while trying to make my to-do list even longer, but I’d appreciate any more lessons learned that might be worth consolidating here.
Cliff
I replaced a front right wheel bearing at the track last month. This weekend I thought that it was shot allready. After closer examination I saw that the entire strut was wobbly. I surgically removed the blue strut boot and found that the nut had migrated to the top of the insert, and the swaybar was pretty much the only thing holding things together. After the race I found that the left was working it’s way also.
Thanks - another good thing to check out after those huge rumble strips at (the northern) RA.