Wish I'd Knowed That...Lessons Learned in Car Prep

[Patton]

An idea from another thread was to post those lessions we’ve learned the hard way.

How so?

Problem:How about loosing all the brake fluid and no brakes because the fluid resevoir was knocked loose.
Solution: zip tie the reservoir.

Problem: Sudden loss of power, usually after going over a bump.
Solution: Zip tie the fuel pump relay into place. Ditto its neighboring relays which are for oxygen sensor heat-up(not really important) and I think the other is a main relay for electronic controls (?).

Problem: Rear end out of alignment, again, cause all the trailing arm nuts/bolts are loose.
Solution: Retain your alignment specs by painting the nuts/bolts.Put a black line on the yellow paint to “tick mark” youralignment. I don’t have a solution for the loostening of the bolts.It just happens.

More to come. Keep this thread in a Problem/Solution format and try to stay on topic? I’ll let Scott Gress chime-in with more stories that are sure to entertain and enlighten.Can’t wait to read the problem/solution summary at the end.

Regards RP

Oops here is another…

Problem: Under car tightening of components.
Solution: Use yellow paint to mark the tight nut bolts so you can tell at a glance if anything has worked its way loose.

Problem: Sand blasting of windshield.
Solution: Yearly replacement of NASCAR-type tear-off film.

Problem: Hood is in the way for servicing
Solution: Grind off the outer swege that holds the hood pivot bushings in place.Drive the bushings out with a round punch (screwdriver). Replace the bushings with clevis pins from the hardware store. Now the hood comes off in 10 seconds.

Problem: Soft brake pedal and/or you feel the need to replace the brake booster. Or, worse yet, sudden loss of brakes with a massive pull to one side.
Solution: Please, please replace all of your 20+ year old brake lines when you build the car. They are not up to the pressures that we use when racing and the will blow out. The old rubber expands when you stomp on the brakes and the extra “compliance” is a problem.The rubber will often split or just flat-out come out of the steel fittings.

[FishMan]

Problem: Car develops a miss at the end of a session.
Solution: Many cars suffer from fuel starvation when the fuel level drops below 1/2 tank. It may be helpful to start a session with a full tank of fuel. The fuel is located low and back which may be a better location than adding ballast in the passenger seat area.

Problem: Speedo is erratic or doesn’t work; the problem often starts a few laps into a session.
Solution: The speedo sensor is located in the differential and gets hot as the diff fluid heats up. The heat build up destroyed my original (from the factory) sensor. A new replacement sensor is a cheap and easy fix.

Problem: If a cooling line was to fail, the car would likely overheat and warp the cylinder head before the temp gauge indicates a problem.
Solution: Install a low coolant pressure switch and light that triggers the light if pressures drop below ~4 psi.

[Steve_D]

Here is an old thread with some useful hints from the grizzled veterans.

http://spece30.com/component/option,com_kunena/Itemid,94/func,view/id,30149/catid,3/limit,10/limitstart,0/

I wish I had known that automatic donors cone with 4.10 diffs.

[cwbaader]

Problem: Rear alignment moves.

Solution: After having alignment done, tack weld the eccentrics in place and race all year. Chuck

[cwbaader]

Last time I had an alignment before the ARRC, I took an electric grinder with me and it took an extra 5 minutes to remove the tacks. Drove car home and re tacked the eccentrics.

Check the cam with a micrometer…all lobes “should” be the same size…slight variation acceptable. We can have cams blueprinted to make everything exactly stock, but I would suggest using new rockers if you do this. Note, if the old rockers do not go on the same lobes, watch for excessive wear the first weekend and readjust the valves accordingly. Chuck

[ilateapex]

Patton wrote:

Problem: Hood is in the way for servicing
Solution: Grind off the outer swege that holds the hood pivot bushings in place.Drive the bushings out with a round punch (screwdriver). Replace the bushings with clevis pins from the hardware store. Now the hood comes off in 10 seconds.

I would like to see a picture of this.

Problem: Under weight
Solution: Don’t remove the sound deadening in the trunk until you are sure you need to.

Michael

[Patton]

Mike, if I wasn’t challenged by technology, I’d post a picture.
Look at the hood pivot points and you’ll see the horizontal, 1"length,1/4" diameter, bushing/pin that is removed.

RP

Now let me go work on some new tips.

Promlem:I don’t have the replacement part at the track
Solution: I’ve got many great track friends! Thanks to all.

[Steve_D]

Patton wrote:

… I’d post a picture.

Sorry for the small diagram. It’s the pin that connects the part bolted to the hood to the part that rotates from vertical to horizontal when you close the hood.

[Ranger]

Re. organizing this thread. When Jason and I gain control of the website we’ll create a separate section of some kind that will be strictly Lessons Learned.
–Lessons Learned for Car Prep. Could have subsections for electrics, brakes, engine, engine management, reliability, interior, etc.
–LL for engine troubleshooting
–LL for packing for events and spares.
–LL for being smart and good looking. And funny.

This will make it information rich, vs. our usual thread which tends to wander OT.

Here’s one…How to keep your exhaust about you.

1. Secure the rubber donuts. Drill a small hole in the support pieces that rise up from the muffle and go thru the rubber donuts. Then get some nut anchoring wire and thread thru the strap and thru the donut. That will keep the strap from popping off of the donut.

2. Independently hold the muffler up. Take some metal strapping tape and fasten it from the spare tire well, underneath the muffler, and than to something under the LR fender. The idea is provide a second means to hold the muffler up, so that the strain is reduced on everything else that is trying to hold the exhaust system on.

[ilateapex]

Steve D wrote:

[quote]Patton wrote:

… I’d post a picture.

Sorry for the small diagram. It’s the pin that connects the part bolted to the hood to the part that rotates from vertical to horizontal when you close the hood.[/quote]

I like that a lot! I normally just remove the 4 bolts but this would be easier for sure.

Michael

[ilateapex]

PDS wrote:

[quote]ilateapex wrote:

[quote]Patton wrote:

Problem: Hood is in the way for servicing
Solution: Grind off the outer swege that holds the hood pivot bushings in place.Drive the bushings out with a round punch (screwdriver). Replace the bushings with clevis pins from the hardware store. Now the hood comes off in 10 seconds.

I would like to see a picture of this.

Problem: Under weight
Solution: Don’t remove the sound deadening in the trunk until you are sure you need to.

Michael[/quote]

Speaking of weight…Any idea on when we’ll hear about rules for 2011. Seeing that I live in the beautiful NE my racing is done till next year. SO, I have finished the motor rebuild and now attacking the chassis. I’d really like to know what weight we’ll be running at in 2011.[/quote]

I am 97% sure the max weight for next year will be no more than 2750 lbs with driver. Not sure how much that may be lowered. I would be surprised if it went down at all but if it did go down I would be VERY shocked if it went down more then 50 lbs.

This is just my opinion, not that based on any official thing.

Michael

[Ranger]

Patton wrote:

Scott,good suggestion on the lessons learned.I look forward to the collaboration. Don’t forget the how to go racing, “Getting Started” sticky thingee that is already posted…but no one seems to read. It is good info.

In a different fashion, all of my cars have a “muffler/exhaust strap” and all of the bolt/slip fit pieces of the exhaust are welded together.

I stole the muffler strap idea from you. I also put clevis pins in my hood per above, based on you showing me that idea. I can take my hood off in 30secs, and often do. The wire fastened donuts idea came from Fred.

I’ll steal someone else’s good idea in a heartbeat. I’m not proud.

[Patton]

Scott, I’ll steal the ideas too…Chuck Taylor and George Doughtie taught me everything that I know.

RP

How 'bout some lessions learned from the guys out west?

[Steve_D]

Patton wrote:

How 'bout some lessions learned from the guys out west?

Dateline: Mansfield, Ohio
September 11, 2011

“Man, we learned today just how fast those East Coast Spec E30 drivers are!” sighed the dejected West Coast contingent in unison. “We put up a good fight the last couple years at Horsepower Central (a/k/a Miller Motorsports Park - ed) but at the finesse track known as Mid Ohio Sports Car Course, we got our asses handed to us” said [NAME WITHHELD TO PROTECT THE INNOCENT], a former West Coast standout who was mired mid-pack. “But at least I can say I raced against the best!”

[Matt_H]

Problem: Coil mount breaks free from inner fender and coil bounces around doing bad things.
Solution: Weld mount to the inner fender or drill and run a bolt through from the wheel well.

[theShoe]

Steve D wrote:

[quote]Patton wrote:

How 'bout some lessions learned from the guys out west?

Dateline: Mansfield, Ohio
September 11, 2011

“Man, we learned today just how fast those East Coast Spec E30 drivers are!” sighed the dejected West Coast contingent in unison. “We put up a good fight the last couple years at Horsepower Central (a/k/a Miller Motorsports Park - ed) but at the finesse track known as Mid Ohio Sports Car Course, we got our asses handed to us” said [NAME WITHHELD TO PROTECT THE INNOCENT], a former West Coast standout who was mired mid-pack. “But at least I can say I raced against the best!”[/quote]

I like to see a man who is willing to call somebody out a year in advance. NASA will appreciate your efforts to bump up the entries. If my ego were not so frail I would respond to your remark in some witty way. Sense all our tracks in California are HP tracks especially Infineon, I have accepted your bait and bit deep.

I think I will let you guys get practiced up back there for an extra year and then when you are good and ready I will come back there in 2012 with some California Cheese for your future Wine.

Sorry I have allowed myself to be draw off topic.B)

[FishMan]

the Shoe wrote:

[quote]Steve D wrote:

[quote]Patton wrote:

How 'bout some lessions learned from the guys out west?

Dateline: Mansfield, Ohio
September 11, 2011

“Man, we learned today just how fast those East Coast Spec E30 drivers are!” sighed the dejected West Coast contingent in unison. “We put up a good fight the last couple years at Horsepower Central (a/k/a Miller Motorsports Park - ed) but at the finesse track known as Mid Ohio Sports Car Course, we got our asses handed to us” said [NAME WITHHELD TO PROTECT THE INNOCENT], a former West Coast standout who was mired mid-pack. “But at least I can say I raced against the best!”[/quote]

I like to see a man who is willing to call somebody out a year in advance. NASA will appreciate your efforts to bump up the entries. If my ego were not so frail I would respond to your remark in some witty way. Sense all our tracks in California are HP tracks especially Infineon, I have accepted your bait and bit deep.

I think I will let you guys get practiced up back there for an extra year and then when you are good and ready I will come back there in 2012 with some California Cheese for your future Wine.

Sorry I have allowed myself to be draw off topic.B)[/quote]

Nichols, you bring that sh#t. By 2012, some of our HPDE E30 fellas will have their comp license; I bet they’ll spank your a$$ too!

[theShoe]

FishMan wrote:

[quote]
Nichols, you bring that sh#t. By 2012, some of our HPDE E30 fellas will have their comp license; I bet they’ll spank your a$$ too![/quote]

West coast LL: East of the mississippi they know how to race. East of the mississippi they know how to talk Smack.

We do have a lot to learn out here.

I love reading stuff that makes me smile.

You better keep training those HPDE guys, cause you are goin’ keep losing some of your guys to the pros like Skeen and maybe Hans, Juice Boy, and the King.

It would be sweet to enjoy the hospitality of the Mid-West and see another National Battle up close.

Nichols

[dherrington]

Problem: Bitch clip is a BITCH to remove (That is the clip that slides through the bushed end of the shift arm - connecting it to the top of the tranny)
Solution: spread, flatten or remove the tab the keeps the bitch clip from swinging up OR just use a bolt instead.)

Problem: Hex bolts on top of diff are hard to reach
Solution: cut holes in trunk over the bolts big enough for a socket on an extention to reach the bolts

Problem: hex bolts on top of diff are hard to align/thread into the diff
Solution: Replace bolts that screw from the top with studs mounted in the diff and a nut on top (easier to thread a nut on top once the stud is through the hole than to thread the bolt from above)

[87isMan]

dherrington wrote:

[quote]Problem: Bitch clip is a BITCH to remove (That is the clip that slides through the bushed end of the shift arm - connecting it to the top of the tranny)
Solution: spread, flatten or remove the tab the keeps the bitch clip from swinging up OR just use a bolt instead.)

Problem: Hex bolts on top of diff are hard to reach
Solution: cut holes in trunk over the bolts big enough for a socket on an extention to reach the bolts

Problem: hex bolts on top of diff are hard to align/thread into the diff
Solution: Replace bolts that screw from the top with studs mounted in the diff and a nut on top (easier to thread a nut on top once the stud is through the hole than to thread the bolt from above)[/quote]

These are really good ideas!! The bitch clip isn’t that bad once you’ve done it a couple times. My trick is to use a large pick, it will pop the clip every time. Got the idea from this thread.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=16845764&postcount=24