What’s everyone towing their car with? I ask because I need a trailer and a truck and I haven’t had reason to tow anything before. Whatever I get would need to be not only a tow rig, but a frequently used work truck and daily driver. I was aiming for a half-ton truck with a big-displacement V8. I know it’s small, but I wonder if a quarter-tonner like a Ranger could do it. It weighs about 3700lbs (4100 or so with people and gear in it) and is rated to tow 5500. Might be pushing it, but considering it’s a 2600lb car on an open trailer. I’m just not sure if I should get a dual axle one. I’m sure the Ranger could pull it, I’m just concerned about how stable it would be and if it would be all that gutless. I ask here because I keep getting people telling me that I need a 3/4 ton truck or a diesel to pull it and I know that’s not necessary. Anyway, I’m curious to see what you cars are using.
What's your tow rig?
Ranger won’t be up to the task unless you get a super light aluminum trailer ($). Are you taking no gear with you because that adds up to. My steel trailer weighs around 2000 lbs. See this thread on bimmerforums.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1024042
I’m using a 2002 F-150 Super Crew FX4 with a 4.6 V8.
I tow my 318is on a steel 16’dove tail open trailer w/ dual axles, and electric brakes.
I wouldn’t really want to use something any smaller, or with less power cause it struggles going up anything other than a moderate hill.
On the plus side, the small V8 gets better gas mileage than the larger V8 when I’m using it as a daily driver, and I can camp in it at the track!
I’m towing a 16’ steal open center (tire rack just added 
) trailer with a 2004 Z71 Suburban. I am getting about 13.4 MPG when I tow 
Ahhh, towing. The giant black hole of racing expenses…
I have an aluminum Trailex trailer that I have towed with a '98 Tahoe (5.7l gas), an '04 Honda Pilot and a GMC 3500 duramax duallie. The Tahoe was heavy enough and had enough motor that whatever I towed was an easy tow (as long as tongue weight was adjusted right). Even fully loaded with tire rack, tools in the Tahoe, etc., it was nice. Of course, my miata-loaded trailer is +/-3,500 lbs (half the rated capacity).
With the Pilot, towing the 3,500 lb Miata combo is OK, but not great. Towing 400 lbs more (difference between an E30 and a Miata) makes it a white-knuckle experience – even though I am still only 90% of rated capacity. The duallie? Forgot the trailer was back there. Just got pissed at the E30 that kept tailgating.
Buy way more truck than you think you will need so you don’t have to buy another one when you decide you want an enclosed trailer in 9 months. Also, I feel better towing way UNDER capacity in case I run into someone on the road and get sued. Maybe I am paranoid.
Good luck finding a rational, affordable soution!
Steve D.
“Jesus Christ I thought I was going to die” <–Common tale of the medium size tow rig.
“I bought a bigger tow rig then I needed” <–Has never been heard
I tow a 14’ steel trailer with a BMW X5. Short wheelbase but the hitch is very close to the rear wheels so it works. But I still envy folks with bigger rigs.
If I had it to do over again, I’d a bought a bigger tow vehicle (since they are cheap now) and a smaller daily driver. Trying to have a daily driver that is also a workable tow vehicle results (because of high gas cost) in the worst of both.
You need a Freightliner with a Mercedes motor, nothing else will do. I’d go with a 38 foot trailer with a lift. No need to thank me now, buy me a beer at the track. 
Dodge Ram 1500 standard cab, short bed, 5.7L hemi 2x4. Used to have the same truck with the quad cab and 4X4. I like the shorter truck (easier to park), and 2x4 (less to break and a tiny bit lower, tiny bit better mileage). If I lived up north again, it would have to be 4x4.
I did NAV - great when you are going to new tracks - or get a portable unit.
By the way - Aluminum Featherlight trailer with box on the tongue and a tire rack from Trailex.
A very late Ford F150 with 5.4L Triton and tow package hauls a steel trailer and Spec E30 quite comfortably. I’ve towed before with a lighter and slightly less powerful truck and it wasn’t a pleasant experience.
Oh yeah, a good brake controller (like a Prodigy) is a must.
1994 Ford F-350 7.3L turbo diesel dually towing an 18’ open steel trailer getting ~18mpg. I also got the long bed and crew cab, I really like having extra space for junk and peoples.
Formerly an E150 van with 5.7L gas V8 (351 ci) and got around 10mpg. The motor in the van was strong enough, but I always worried about the weak tranny and especially having enough brakes in an emergency stop situation. I bought the van thinking I would sleep in it but never did.
Personally, I like having way more than I need, but as a rule of thumb wouldn’t want to be any more than about 75% of the GCVW of the tow vehicle, and keep your brakes in tip top shape. Suggest you check out rv.net - there is a world of info there on towing.
GMC Sierra Crew Cab 2500 HD gas, with a camper top. Open steel deck trailer 18 or 16? Never measured it.
Works like a champ. Crew Cab seats 4 in comfort, camper top swallows wheels tires and my entire garage without a hiccup.
11mpg, city, hwy, or towing. 26 gallon tank apprx $100ish.
I suppose you could sleep in the camper top too, but I’m lazy and soft so I like a hotel room.
Also I’ve heard chicks LOVE camper tops, I have no proof of this yet.
Go to the NASA SE boards there have been some innovative solutions discussed there including old school buses, old ambulances, and the pro/cons of molester vans.
I tow with a '91 E350 vambulance (7.3L IDI diesel) and a 16ft open steel trailer:
I drove my car on the street to events before I arrived at this tow setup. I got away relatively cheaply: $2400 used vambulance + $900 used trailer.
I get 11mpg, which adds up pretty fast. I’m planning/slacking on doing a veggie oil conversion to get those miles for “free”.
Chevy Suburban 2500(6 liter gas) with 3.73 rear end, 4x4, pulling a 32 ft aluminum trailer (wt ~ 2000 lbs) towing 2 e30s. Average around 11 mpg. Plenty of weight in the tow vehicle so very stable. No problems on long hauls/hills.
Ed
Everybody’s pretty much convinced me of what I figured I’d need. As much as I like Rangers, it seems I’ll be going for a small-block half-ton truck and a dual-axle trailer. Cost is the big one and I can’t get a truck for work/towing and another DD. Garage is full with the E30. My Jeep is going up on the jacks for a long suspension/axle swap. Gas mileage in a full-size won’t be much (any?) worse than my Jeep is now and a rough ride doesn’t bother me (see: Jeep :laugh: ) Because of cost, it’ll probably be a mid-late 90s truck. Because I’ll be driving my girlfriend and nephews/nieces, I’m concerned about safety. I know in a multi-vehicle collision, having a heavier vehicle is better (for you, anyway), but in a single vehicle wreck against an immovable object it’s just more energy for the truck to absorb. The other thing is that I drive several hundred miles a week, although at least 300 of them are highway miles. Any good trailer manufacturers to be recommended?
I got a 2004 Ford F-150 pretty cheap from the dealer about a year back. Its just a 4.6 but it gets the job done pulling a 16 foot trailer getting 14.5 mpg.
Chevy 2500HD 6.0L gas with camper shell, 20ft enclosed Haulmark. 10mpg towing at ~70mph, 15 highway with no trailer.
Great setup, would only sell if upgrading to a 2 enclosed car & a diesel tow rig.
lt1_man wrote:
That’s pretty awesome mileage.
If you don’t buy a 4x4, a half ton truck will ride very nice. In most states, they are also cheaper to license than a heavier truck.
Glad you talked yourself out of the Ranger. Even if it could handle the weight, the fuel mileage would be awful as it would have to work very hard to pull everything. I’ve owned a few, and I’d never want to tow my setup with one.
What makes towing a lot easier is getting a good trailer. Don’t buy some cheap POS thinking you’ll upgrade in a few years. You’ll regret not just saving for the right thing. Dual axle, brakes on both axles for sure. Buy a good quality brake controller too (they aren’t expensive).
Final tip: be sure to check the trailer’s ramp system. Mine came with ridiculously short ramps that won’t work…period. I’m having longer ones made so I can actually get the car on the trailer. :unsure:
2002 f-350 psd, great truck. As said before, buy more than you think you need. If I were you i would try to find a Chevy 2500 with a big block, you can get them for a reasonable deal now. no problem with an open trailer and enough power to upgrade to the enclosed trailer you will want in a couple years…
Over the last 20 years I have towed with:
90 E350 - 460 gas - awesome towing machine that can also haul the family & stuff
88 F150 - 5.8L gas - great for open trailer but couldn’t bring the whole family
99 Tahoe - 5.7L gas - good overall but didn’t handle 24’ enclosed trailer well - tail wags the dog!
26’ Motorhome - 460 gas - definitely the nicest way to tow, plenty of reserve, just hard to park, but you can use it for vacations away from the track (my wife’s favorite tow vehicle)
90 E350 “Uhaul Box Truck” - 7.3L IDI diesel - towed anything/everything like a rock, just couldn’t make it up a hill faster than 45 mph
97 F350 crew cab dually - 7.3 Turbo diesel - mean towing machine and room for 6 people, luggage, tools, tires, etc.
98 Freightliner - 350hp Detroit diesel - ain’t nothing like it! towed 55,000lbs (4 cars!) to Barber last month easily
I agree w/Ranger - buy a big tow vehicle and a cheap, economical DD, save the tow vehicle for towing and as a backup for the DD.
and I also agree with Gasman - a Freightliner is definitely the way to go, but a 53’ trailer is better than a 38’ trailer.
With the prices of big trucks and SUV’s dropping like crazy I would suggest watching the market, you should be able to buy a little older vehicle for next to nothing soon with reserve capacity for towing. Always buy more tow vehicle than you need.
andrew240z wrote:
[quote]2002 f-350 psd, great truck. As said before, buy more than you think you need. If I were you i would try to find a Chevy 2500 with a big block, you can get them for a reasonable deal now. no problem with an open trailer and enough power to upgrade to the enclosed trailer you will want in a couple years…
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GMC-Sierra-2500-HD-SLT-04-GMC-2500-HD-SLT-V8-6-0-GAS-CREW-CAB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ90981QQihZ005QQitemZ150268240914QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW[/quote]
We are licensed dealers in NC and I went to the dealer’s auction in Statesville this week, I was SHOCKED at the prices the 4-10 yr old turbo diesel trucks were selling for, it was like they were plagued and nobody wanted to touch them. Literally selling for 25% of what they were selling for a year ago… :ohmy: