Tyres life

#1

How long do they last when shaved to 4/32? Do you have a set for quali and another for racing?
I just don’t want to buy more tyres/wheels than I need, pocket getting empty.:angry:

#2

C’mon, 28 views and no replies. Is that a "racing secret"? I’m not asking for tyre pressure or alignment settings, but they could be useful if you have them;)

#3

Vic - simple advice. Buy one set, go racing. Also, need an unshaved set for rains. We used two sets in 5 race weekends last year. The second set was also used in comp school this year and still have one weekend left. The life, from what I’ve heard, is about 14 heat cycles, but in my opinion, is a little hard to calculate, because it depends on tire down time.
Ed

#4

The Toyo guy said to run them to the cords. Depending on the track surface, I get about two and a half weekends from a set of 4/32nds. If they sit for a long time, they will "dry-out" some and will get harder, but that takes a year or so.

Carter

#5

Beto,
My current set almost to the cords have lasted all least year in 11 track days.
I hope to use them for two more weekends before i by new ones.
I did not get mine shaved cause i didn’t know any better at the time.
Now that i am officialy racing i think the next set i will shave.

#6

Cool!! Thanx guys.
I got two shaved sets, and one unshaved. I guess the shaved sets should last me more than one weekend.
I was worried because if I needed tyres for Cali speedway I had to order them today, but since I got two, I don’t have to.
I’ll take your word and use them to the cords then.:wink:

#7

watch the wear pattern - you can flip them on the rim half-way through their life
cheers,
bruce

#8

dup post

#9

leggwork wrote:

[quote]watch the wear pattern - you can flip them on the rim half-way through their life
cheers,
bruce[/quote]
Thanx for the advise.

#10

I started out March 2006 with a set shaved to 6/32 inch and did 8 DE’s and 2 race weekends last year and 2 events this year. I figure they have 50+ heat cycles on them and they still have around 2/32 tread left. I did rotate them regularly and flipped them on the wheels once.

This may say something about the level of my driving skill, but I pushed pretty hard for most of the time. I switched to a set of new tires shaved to 4/32 for the first race at VIR last month and could definitely tell a difference in them compared to the old tires.

If you are still doing DE’s I would recommend getting full depth tires or maybe shaved to 6/32. They will last a lot longer. My new set cost me $655 shaved with tax. Ouch!

#11

Ken,

That has to be some sort of record for tire life! Was the 8 DE’s 4 weekends + 2 race (06) + 2 (07) … that’s amazing…

#12

Ken,

That has to be some sort of record for tire life! Was the 8 DE’s 4 weekends + 2 race (06) + 2 (07) … that’s amazing…

#13

Keith,

I did 15 track days last year in DE, 3 total races in 2006, and 2 track days this year. I figure at least 3 heat cycles per track day would total close to 60 heat cycles.

Some of these track days were in 40 degree weather and others on a wet track which would account for some of the extended tread life. The rest of the extended tread life would have to be my slow driving. Although a did manage a 2:23 at VIR last month with fairly consistant 2:24’s.

#14

screwynewy wrote:

Wow!You paid too much.
Shaved to 4/32 set $580 delivered, no tax, you need to pay installation, around here is $20.
I’ll get shaved set, 6/32, at the race track for $560 installed.
I got my "rain" set for $500 installed.
I figured I could use the 6/32’s for practice and quali, and save the 4/32’s for the race.

#15

BETO wrote:

[quote]screwynewy wrote:

Wow!You paid too much.
Shaved to 4/32 set $580 delivered, no tax, you need to pay installation, around here is $20.
I’ll get shaved set, 6/32, at the race track for $560 installed.
I got my "rain" set for $500 installed.
I figured I could use the 6/32’s for practice and quali, and save the 4/32’s for the race.[/quote]

I forgot to mention that this price included $60 for mounting/balancing.

#16

Here is some info off Phils Tire Service Web site. 4/32 is a balance between grip and tire life. 2/32 is max. grip. I suppose it depends on your budget, regarding what depth to shave, unless they are free.

tire.jpg680x523

#17

That is some good info there.

#18

DMoses wrote:

Except that I am baffled at how they could put in an 18-24psi min. starting pressure and have ideal pressures of 41-43psi hot. I’ve never seen the Hoosiers grow more than about 10lbs and the guys I talked to at VIR said the same applied to the Toyos. For some reason, the manufacturer websites always put a very high hot pressure in. I don’t think I’ve run into anyone who’s found over 40lbs ideal on Toyos or Hoosiers. Am I mistaken?

#19

I have found RA1s to work well anywhere between 38 and 41 hot. I do agree that it would be very hard to start at 18psi and make it anywhere near the high 30s to low 40 psi.

#20

We start at 30-32, unless it is really cold, then 35.
Ed