Trackside Spares Package

#1

We’ve just completed our first SE30 and ran our first event in Region. Even though the car ran without issue (and even broke the track record by more than 2 seconds), since most of the competing with the car will be done out of region (very few, if any, other SE30’s running in SoCal), we would like to carry a robust, but manageable, spares package with us to events.

As SE30 newbies and having no real local SE30 knowledge pool to draw from, we haven’t discovered what the common failure items are on the SE30. As such, we were hoping to get a little input from the community as to what we should bring with us to the track. Here’s what we have on our list so far:

Suspension
Front Control Arms
Front Control Arm Bushings
Front Control Arm Brackets

Brakes
Rotors (all)
Calipers (all)

Cooling
Thermostat
Thermostat Gasket
Water Pump
Radiator
Hoses (All)

Engine Electrical
Alternator
Distributor Cap
Ignition Rotor
Crank Sensor
Spark Plug Wire Set

Gaskets, Belts, etc.
Belts (all)
Valve Cover Gasket
Exhaust Gaskets

Drive Train
Clutch Kit
Pilot Bearing
Rear Axles

We always bring tools, fluids, zip ties, racers tape, etc. But have we missed anything that’s SE30 specific?

Any advice or guidance you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

#2

fuel pump and filter, remembering that there are two kinds (early and late cars). i gave out both two weeks ago at vir, to two different people. an extra gas cap wouldn’t hurt either, people have been known to leave them off by mistake. also the three relays in the engine compartment (main, fuel pump, and one other one that i forget) which tend to loosen and fall out. abs relays have been known to blow too but they don’t disable the car.

#3

A rocker arm or two might be useful. I know I could have used one if I had it with me this past May.

#4

We had a guy kill a rocker arm at Road Atlanta today. The things I have seen go wrong since I have been at the track are:

Brake lines both hard and soft
Calipers
Heater core bypass hose
Wiring for fuel pump
Rocker Arm

#5

coil
head gasket kit
spare motor if your ranger :slight_smile:

#6

Things to add so far:
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Wiring for Fuel Pump
Rocker Arms
Brake lines (hard lines might be rough)
Ignition Coil
Head Gasket Kit

Even though ours is freshly rebuilt (barely even broken in), we may actually bring a spare motor to Nationals. We already have a spare transmission that will probably make the trip.

Also wondering if it makes sense to bring power steering components…

Thanks for the input.

#7

delete power steering.

#8

absolutely delete power steering. i didn’t know anyone actually kept it :slight_smile:

consider adding a front wheel bearing assembly to the list, i’ve already replaced both of mine this year so. extra studs wouldn’t hurt either.

#9

I’ve still got power steering. Just started leaking a bit, but seems fine otherwise. Why would you remove a working unit?

#10

several reasons:

  1. reduce front heavy weight
  2. reduce parasitic power loss from p/s pump
  3. improve steering feel
  4. delete one more unnecessary component that is likely to fail
#11

one part you MUST have…the oil cooler delete fitting. Was used on all “e” and super e motors, screws into the block so you can mount the filter…there are many failure points in the oil cooler system, not to mention a little track debris can take the cooler out… I keep one in my track box takes a 24mm deep socket to install.

Al

#12

Is the steering ratio such that removing the power assist doesn’t make the car a PITA to drive? What’s the guess in hp you might recoup from pulling it off?

#13

OriginalSterm wrote:

hp gain is probably minimal, but removing the weight and a potential leak source is the main reason for removal. definitely not a pita to drive, my steering is actually quite light and feel is probably improved (PS was gone when i bought it so i can’t compare).

#14

don’t even notice it on track and makes the steering feel much better. not sure on hp but every little bit helps i guess. weight savings is quite significant esp in the front of the car. i’d delete it if i were you.

#15

We usually run cars with a LOT more tire that pretty much require power steering, especially in longer stints… we’ve discussed removing it, but only briefly.

What does the pump and associated plumbing really weigh?

#16

kishg wrote:

Any bit of weight I remove will have to be added back in again somewhere. It would be nice to get some more weight off the nose though…

#17

MidnightOilMotors wrote:

[quote]We usually run cars with a LOT more tire that pretty much require power steering, especially in longer stints… we’ve discussed removing it, but only briefly.

What does the pump and associated plumbing really weigh?[/quote]
Pelican shows a shipping weight of 4.6 lbs for the pump. Add fluid, lines, pulley… Say 10 lbs more or less.

I think the geometry has as much to do with steering effort at speed as the tire size. The E30 is easier than my '99 Miata but harder than my '90 Miata was. All running 205 Toyos.

RE: Original topic (sorry if I am repeating anything)

  • throttle cable
  • belts & hoses
  • crank sensor
#18

OriginalSterm wrote:

true but weight in the middle/rear is better than weight up front as you mention. also, i don’t want to deal with it leaking at some point as it invariably will.

#19

Some ideas:
brake light bulbs
Hoses, Guibo?
filters, fusable links?, end links/hardware, (locktite)
master slave cylinders brakes clutch?
(put me in the trailer as your spare driver)

#20

Back on topic…you don’t have to carry spares…just make sure Ranger and Levie are at the track:laugh: Chuck