Stalwart, hard luck #6 is no more.


#41

I heard a quote in from a race official that could be a replacement for my “This is Ranger requesting a flyby” signature block quote. It was something along the lines of…

"I got worried when I heard over the radio “the driver has crawled out of his car and is laying on the ground”.

Or, from my perspective “I crawled out and assumed a good prone in the grass. With the warm sun shining on my face, the knowledge that I had no responsibilities and that help was on the way, it was very comfortable.”


#42

That is what I am talking about :cheer:


#43

I’ve spent the last week at my parents house scrapping paint and seam sealer out of my engine bay to repaint it. I think you probably won that round. Next is the prettiest engine bay contest.


#44

That’s awesome. The next time I pull an engine, which sometimes doesn’t need a real “reason”, I’m going to do that too. A shiny engine bay is a beautiful thing.

With as much work as I’m going to put into this damn car, I better not ruin the thing. And don’t anyone hit the SOB either.


#45

The odds are, that somebody will. Been there done that and have the dents as proof. I’ve got one dent from a truck while the car was parked in the paddock.


#46

That’s awesome. The next time I pull an engine, which sometimes doesn’t need a real “reason”, I’m going to do that too. A shiny engine bay is a beautiful thing.

With as much work as I’m going to put into this damn car, I better not ruin the thing. And don’t anyone hit the SOB either.[/quote]

I also cut the main harness where it goes through the firewall and ordered 2 22 pin weather-pack connectors from DIY autotune. I counted 49 wires remaining but hopefully I can reduce it to 44.


#47

That’s awesome. The next time I pull an engine, which sometimes doesn’t need a real “reason”, I’m going to do that too. A shiny engine bay is a beautiful thing.

With as much work as I’m going to put into this damn car, I better not ruin the thing. And don’t anyone hit the SOB either.[/quote]

I also cut the main harness where it goes through the firewall and ordered 2 22 pin weather-pack connectors from DIY autotune. I counted 49 wires remaining but hopefully I can reduce it to 44.[/quote]
Dude, that’s a little aggressive. Engine management problems are devilish enough without adding complexity.


#48

I left the engine harness alone. I cut the body harness. Seamed like the only way to get the fuse box out of the way and finally have enough slack to dig into it.


#49

Ah so


#50

[quote=“turbo329is” post=62146]I left the engine harness alone. I cut the body harness. Seamed like the only way to get the fuse box out of the way and finally have enough slack to dig into it.[/quote]I’m not sure what you mean by “…get the fuse box out of the way…” but I would be careful modifying the wiring that’s not associated with rules-removable stuff. The in-line connectors would be weenie protest material but legal beats illegal every time.


#51

The day I was bringing my freshly painted spec e30 home from the paint shop a woman ran into it with a cadillac and took off, Better be mentally prepared for that kind of shit.


#52

Dude, you need to write your autobiography. The list of your adventures is endless.


#53

Removing engine from Old #6. The right corner got cut away weeks ago in order to provide access to the engine.

I spent a good 90min trying to separate tranny from guibo/flexdisk where the drivetrain had buckled. In the end tho there was a bent bolt that I just couldn’t get to. Because the engine was kinda jammed/stuck against the firewall and didn’t want to move, I dropped the front subframe. I was worred that if I gave the engine a hard tug the car would come off of the jackstands so I wanted to drop it free, not yank it free. I’d never dropped the front subframe before and that turned out to be surprisingly easy.

If I had a real lift maybe I’d do engine swaps from underneath instead of using an engine hoist. But my scissor lift wouldn’t cut it for that kind of effort.

In the end I never did get that last bent bolt out of the guibo/flex disk. The driveshaft happily separated at the center bearing so the engine came out dragging half of the driveshaft.

Anyone want a free damaged tranny? There’s likely parts inside worth harvesting. Driver-Gear? Otherwise it will go with the car to the PickNPull for it’s value in weight.


#54

Ranger said:" I’d never dropped the front subframe before and that turned out to be surprisingly easy.

If I had a real lift maybe I’d do engine swaps from underneath instead of using an engine hoist. "

Patton said,“If I didn’t have a lift I would have thrown in the towel long ago.”

That’s how we change-out engines in the confines of a real shop. Good luck with the rebuild, Scott.

RP


#55

I had some questions and opinions about your wreck that I didn’t want to voice because you were just in a wreck. I’ve never wrecked a car but I don’t think you should be able to race with you’re dash bar where it was. You can bleed to death from a broken leg and you’re lucky you didn’t break yours. There should probably be a rule change about dash bar height. It doesn’t effect me it’s just a safety issue. Secondly I wanted to know if the abs affected your ability to lock up the brakes. I already hate abs and every other form of "driver aid’.


#56

One of my shins took a hard whack so clearly the location of my dash bar was not ideal. I don’t know who came up with that design but the outfit that prepped the car for the PO was called DP Motorworks and I think they’re in VA.

On the other hand, and acknowlegding that I don’t know anything about cage design, it seems to me that a dash bar that is up near the window line would do less to prevent the engine and tranny from moving into the passenger compartment.

The dashbar on New#6 is up near the window line.

Maybe the key isn’t so much getting the dash bar higher, but getting it more forward. Certainly the knee bar on Old#6 could have been more forward. With engine and tranny mounts all sheared and tranny separated from driveshaft, there was nothing much preventing my engine from ending up in my lap. The firewall isn’t going to prevent intrusion in a big crash.

Re. ABS and locking up the brakes. That’s an interesting thought. Unsurprisingly I’ve given my reaction to slipping on the coolant a lot of thought and I’m not happy with the amount of steering correction I applied. Sure, I could have ended up in a side hit and killed, but that doesn’t change the idea that more steering correction might have resulted in more control, both before and after I locked up the brakes.

Certainly ABS impacts the behavior of the car when the brakes are locked up. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing. ABS is supposed to improve control. It’s up to the driver to do something useful with that control.

Finally, I think that the key to ABS is not so much the situps and crunches that every American male should be doing 2+/wk, but just being lean. If you’re lean, you’ll have abs even if you’ve not done the situps to earn them. So if you want ABS, walk away from meals before you’re satiated and get some more exercise.


#57

[quote=“Ranger” post=63535]One of my shins took a hard whack so clearly the location of my dash bar was not ideal. I don’t know who came up with that design but the outfit that prepped the car for the PO was called DP Motorworks and I think they’re in VA.

On the other hand, and acknowlegding that I don’t know anything about cage design, it seems to me that a dash bar that is up near the window line would do less to prevent the engine and tranny from moving into the passenger compartment.

The dashbar on New#6 is up near the window line.

Maybe the key isn’t so much getting the dash bar higher, but getting it more forward. Certainly the knee bar on Old#6 could have been more forward. With engine and tranny mounts all sheared and tranny separated from driveshaft, there was nothing much preventing my engine from ending up in my lap. The firewall isn’t going to prevent intrusion in a big crash.[/quote]
The dash bar on my Kirk cage is pretty tight on the firewall and is pretty high, just above the heater box. That looks to me to be pretty good location. It is low enough to catch the engine or deflect it down but high enough to never be a problem for the driver.


#58

I had Kirk put the knee bar in both my cars just under the steering column and over the column mount. Inaccessible to your knees…it does, however, make you place the down tubed along the “A” pillar further forward, which is not a bad thing. One other thing, Scott. You should be through with your car by now…took me 26 days from start to annual and I’m much older than you. Chuck


#59

Wife keeps making me go on vacations. Am in WV now teaching the boys to snowboard.

I’ve also spent too much time on “pretty”. When I get home the front bumper, exhaust and rear/side windows go on. Then it’s getting evicted from the garage for a couple weeks in favor of the e46 that needs a lot of work. Finally, I need to spend a solid day pulling the last of the useful parts off of Old#6 so it can go to the crusher.

The boss’s schedule dictates that I can’t race until Apr so all I’m trying to do is get some test laps done in Mar.


#60

One must ultimately satisfy the Supreme Commander!! Being child free and only working 20-25 hours a week during that time helped…remember, I even RRd your motor after my crash. CB