Ranger's motorswap thread


#141

Scott

Maybe the cam momentarily siezed? Doubtful since you had good oil pressure but I’d check the cam journals anyway. Does your motor have the cam tensioner spring thingy or did you set the belt tension without it? (maybe it was too tight or too loose).

Lots of oil presure is great - but that’s HORSEPOWER you’re using to make that pressure. If you’ve got an accumpsump then you should be good to prevent oil starvations - so figure out a way to crank down that pressure. I know nothing about M20 oiling systems - is there an oil pressure regulator spring you can change? I’d say 40/50 psi max when warmed up - and heck you need almost nuthin at idle… Any yeah - get some thinner 30W weight oil in there…

Jim


#142

Scomm…measure the diameter of your intake valve and post. If you have an “e” head, the extra two cam journals are not oiled and could cause the cam to seize. Chuck


#143

Folks are telling me that t belt teeth shearing off is a not uncommon way for t belts to fail, so maybe the cam seizing scenario is getting unlikely. The lesson there is that a visual inspection on a “fairly new” t belt doesn’t cut it. A year ago bent valves would have been a significant event. But now it’s just a couple evenings in the garage and getting some machine work done.

It’s an 885 head. It was a new head, not a refurb. Apparently someone in Spain is making heads still.

Re. oil. I think that we’ve been too concerned about oil viscosity and insufficiently concerned about the oil pickup running dry. Next outing I’ll try x40 and see what oil pressure does.


#144

The cost of experience is sometimes high.

But, as you can see, Ranger is learning the lingo…“two people can remove the head with the intake and exhaust manifolds on, the 885 head,” etc., more stuff than most of us know. He was trouble shooting the no-run condition like a pro. One of these days we can all join the ranks of Levie and Baader.Remember, this sport/hobby is about more than just on-track talent. Preparation is a huge component.

Good job, keep learning, and get that engine fixed.

Robert (been there, done that, still have lots to learn) Patton


#145

Scott,

It was nice meeting you this past weekend.

Not for nothing, but I think it might be time to let a professional get in there!

Alex.


#146

ukrbmw wrote:

[quote]Scott,

It was nice meeting you this past weekend.

Not for nothing, but I think it might be time to let a professional get in there!

Alex.[/quote]

Hate to say it Scott, but the tuition expense for the University of Hard Knocks is too high.


#147

Gasman wrote:

[quote]ukrbmw wrote:

[quote]Scott,

It was nice meeting you this past weekend.

Not for nothing, but I think it might be time to let a professional get in there!

Alex.[/quote]

Hate to say it Scott, but the tuition expense for the University of Hard Knocks is too high.[/quote]

Nah, you guys have it all wrong. 2 yrs ago I was intimidated by the idea of taking off the rocker arm cover. Now I’ve pulled a motor, rebuilt it, and reinstalled it. And almost all of it unaided. That’s major shit. I’ve checked a block that every American boy should check.

Sure, there were some hiccups along the way that had to be worked thru. Nothing goes perfectly the first time. And now my head is getting repaired because I made a bad call on using what looked like a perfectly serviceable t belt. It takes experience to learn what shortcuts you can and can not take.

2yrs ago breaking rockers and bending valves would have been a major emotional event. Now it’s no big deal. My head will be back a week and a couple hours and beers later proud #6 will roar to life.

Subject change. Uncharacteristically, I had to back off a bit on an obsession. In this case, my sensors, switches and gauges. Here’s what I had planned.

–Oil pressure at galley
–Oil P warning switch (red) at galley
–Oil pressure near pump (to Traqmate, not a gauge)
–Oil P warning switch (amber) near pump
–Oil pressure at Accusump

–Oil temp near block
–Oil T warning switch near block
–Oil temp after cooler (a switch allows a gauge to monitor both oil temps.

–Coolant temp
–Coolant temp switch (amber)

Voltage

With this system I’d monitor oil P in the logical place but a very bright amber light would flash if the oil pump ran dry. It wouldn’t be a crisis because the sump would cover it, but I’d still know in realtime that the oil pump had just sucked air.

I don’t need to see oil pressure at the pump in the middle of a turn, but it would be interesting to have the data in the Traqmate file.

I thought that it would be interesting to not only know the oil temp leaving the motor, but also the oil temp returning to the motor. But I don’t need to know both simultaneously, so the two sensors go thru a switch to a common gauge.

I wanted the gauge on the sump so I could see what it’s doing, particularly during vehicle start up and shut down.

Tonight I was hooking up the last of the sensors, putting in a gauge for the sump and putting in the temp switch. I had to disassemble 1/2 of the increasingly complex oiling system and get increasingly imaginative re. how to add more sensors. I drilled and tapped two steel fittings so I could thread in temp sensors.

My plumbing, festooned with sensors, started some concerns that increasing complexity was just increasing the number of possible failure points. I decided to put a limit on the insanity and forgo the oil temp warning light. Putting a single sensor into the oiling system is pretty easy, but when you find yourself at 1AM trying to figure out how to put the 8th sensor in, you have to ask yourself if you’ve lost your mind.

I think warning lights serve a reasonable purpose for pressure, but maybe for temperature I can just keep an eye on my damn oil gauge. Next winter I can relook the plumbing and see if I can’t simplify it some by fabricating some custom piece of plumbing that can handle most of the sensors all by itself.


#148

Scott, I didn’t even read the proposed thing about gauges.

KISS it, get it running, and the tinker with the extras later 'cause all those extras make troubleshooting the basics that much more difficult.

Robert (ain’t got no oil cooler and it runs 240 degrees) Patton


#149

Patton wrote:

[quote]Scott, I didn’t even read the proposed thing about gauges.

KISS it, get it running, and the tinker with the extras later 'cause all those extras make troubleshooting the basics that much more difficult.

Robert (ain’t got no oil cooler and it runs 240 degrees) Patton[/quote]

I needed something to work on while I waited for the head to return. No worries.


#150

Ranger, the next chapter of your saga has practically written itself. I would not be surprised to find you’ve wrapped your oil system around the axle and are just begging for a serious “Ranger” moment at your next outing.

I was going to post the same thing Patton did but he beat me to it…Just put the motor together with the oil system as Hans and Gruuber engineered it, then run the Peachtree DE at 8/10 to make sure everything holds together, then decide how much of your oilinator lubfuscation system you wish to hook up.


#151

I’m signed up for the Peachtree DE at RA, Fri-Sun.

RA last weekend was the test for the oiling system. All I’m doing is playing with the sensors a bit. Think positive and have faith. In terms of mechanical problems, victory will be mine. Ultimately.

I need to pick up a few more fittings tomorrow (for the sump pressure gauge) and then the oiling system and gauges should all be done. I’ll end up pacing around the house driving the kids and wife crazy. What’s the next thing that would be useful to obsess over?


#152

Ranger wrote:

ummm…driving?


#153

csrow wrote:

[quote]Ranger wrote:

ummm…driving?[/quote]

Hmm. I could obsess over reliability. It would be nice to have a car that can make into my garage Sunday night under it’s own power.


#154

Hey Ranger,

I’m the guy who is going on his 6th engine and I think you know my history. The 6th engine isn’t in the car yet, but this time I decided to buy a crate engine from the BMW dealership. It’s going to cost around 4200 (this is not the public price, but the shop price), but at least I know what I’m getting. I’m shocked you had to spend 3500 on just the lower end.

My brother-in-law purchased a crate engine from the dealership last year and they haven’t had any trouble since.

I hope to make it to VIR in July and make it through an entire weekend for the first time in 2 years.

John


#155

Ranger, make sure when you install the t belt that you rotate the motor by hand to make sure the tension is correct…the tension can be right on one side of the tensioner and then when the motor turns all the slack from the other side can cause problems.

Al


#156

And you also want to do 2 full crank rotations along the line Al is talking about so you can also check the reference marks when you finish the rotation…Sometimes it will look perfect when you put the belt on but turn out to be one tooth off…seen it happen before.


#157

Roger, those are both good reminders. I was in God’s own hurry when I put that t belt on last week. And I paid for that.

John, wtg dude. I feel for you tho. If you lived anywhere close I’d be there helping you install it. Except I don’t do timing belts for people . Treat your shiny new motor to a crankscraper and a sump


#158

So I’m curious to know…Which rocker arms broke?


#159

rrroadster wrote:

I don’t recall for certain. They were intake and I think 2 & 5.


#160

Scott, and all…If I remember correctly, SCCA specifically banned the non clamped hose for oil. They have and will fail on occasion. To remedy that problem, I use clamps on all my barbed fittings. Search Mcmaster for “pinch clamps” for the best for oil lines (but I use them on fuel, too). Chuck