Racing gods were smiling on me

#1

Sunday afternoon, I decided to drain the radiator and fill it with pure coolant. I’d then run the engine to operating temp to circulate it with the water in the block and would have a good 50/50 or so mixture, which is plenty of protection for our mild NC winter.

After draining the rad, I started to fill it from the coolant jug and immediately noticed some dripping from the front of the car. I stopped and looked at the rad, through the lower grill opening just below the bumper.

There is a small hole that was "peeing" straight forward. It’s obvious where the rock hit it and created the hole. Why this started leaking then, is a complete mystery…but I’m glad it didn’t leak at the last race, where it surely got hit. I do remember, however, catching a few wiffs of coolant during the race but the water temp never went up. And it never leaked in the paddock, on the trailer, or in my carport at home.

Does anyone know of a good source for a radiator? I know there are some discount suppliers but I don’t want to go-cheap on something like a radiator, if the quality isn’t good.

While looking, I also noticed that the oil cooler isn’t oil-cooling very much, due to crud buildup in the fins. Any suggestions for a replacement?

Thanks,

Carter

#2

Carter,

A little off the subject but since we’re talking off season rehab, what are your normal items to repair/replace?

I’m going to do the obvious:

  1. Rotors
  2. Pads
  3. Hoses
  4. Timing belts
  5. Valve ajustment
  6. Oil + filter Change (mobil 1)

Keeping in mind limited budgets…What are your thoughts and anything you’d add to the list.

In my 944 bearings wear was always really bad and had to be addressed. Dave tells me not to sweat it in a 325i. As long as no metal tid-bits are on the magnetic plug, just keep running it.

As for your question on where to find good quality parts…I’ve had really good luck with these guys. http://buybimmerparts.com/

Thanks
brain

Post edited by: brain, at: 2005/10/24 21:17

#3

Carter,

Thanks so much for reminding me ANTIFREEZE IN THE CAR!!!

Car is out at my dads place and I would have forgotten!

Brain…Check dates on all your belts and safety stuff.

RIC

#4

Carter,

I am pretty sure that the E36 radiator will work if your car is a later model, with the metal coolant passage. There are not many choices to replace the rad, that I have ever found. I theink there is one MFG. that makes a high end all aluminum rad for the e30 but it is big bucks… >> $400.00. OEM is probably the best bet.

http://catalog.partsquest.com/partsquest/wizard.jsp?partner=partsquest&clientid=partsquest&baseurl=http://store.partsquest.com/&cookieid=1N90HSX1L1N90HT8RW&year=1989&make=BM&model=325-IS-001&category=G&part=Radiator&appTransmissionType=5-Speed

Paste this, and use coupon code NASA for the discount

#5

Carter,
Our friends at Bimmerworld are selling the E36 radiator upgrade for $150 these days.
HTH!
-Vic

#6

I managed to nick my RX-7 rad last year durring the install and wasn’t about to trash a $300 aluminum rad. I found some JB Weld or putty weld works wonders. I have since put over 35,000 miles on that radiator with no problems. If the tanks are still good, I’d consider just a JB Weld patch and save some bucks.

#7

brain wrote:

[quote]Carter,

A little off the subject but since we’re talking off season rehab, what are your normal items to repair/replace?

I’m going to do the obvious:

  1. Rotors
  2. Pads
  3. Hoses
  4. Timing belts
  5. Valve ajustment
  6. Oil + filter Change (mobil 1)

Keeping in mind limited budgets…What are your thoughts and anything you’d add to the list.

In my 944 bearings wear was always really bad and had to be addressed. Dave tells me not to sweat it in a 325i. As long as no metal tid-bits are on the magnetic plug, just keep running it.

As for your question on where to find good quality parts…I’ve had really good luck with these guys. http://buybimmerparts.com/

Thanks
brainPost edited by: brain, at: 2005/10/24 21:17[/quote]

Brain:

I don’t want to dissuade you from doing anything but I’ve alwys been told that a good visual inspection of the water hoses will tell you if any need to be replaced. And I’ll replace the rotors when they get worn or cracked. If the cracks are big enough to catch your fingernail, the rotor should be replaced.

I just had the timing belt replaced and the valves adjusted so we’re on the same page there. I know that Carlton is planning to do the same. And I’ll change the oil (Mobile One 10W30 - it’s winter so I like the thinner oil - I run the car to operating temp every two weeks - will go back to factory recommended weight prior to the '06 season) and filter too.

I’ll check the wheel bearings, all the suspension mounting fasteners, the drivetrain nuts and bolts, the guibo, the engine and trans mounts, and shifter bushings. I’ll also top-up all the fluids. And don’t forget about the windshild washer fluid. Pure water can freeze and crack the reservior.

I’ll probably wax it with my new bottle of Rejex (sp?). They sponsor the NASA Mid Atlantic Saturday parties so I bought a bottle.

Like I said earlier, I’ll pull the cover off and will run it to operating temp every two weeks.

Any other suggestions from the group?

Carter

ps. Now that you mention it, I’ll probably replace the water hose that runs behind the engine, against the firewall. This hose failed on Robert Patton’s car during the Octoberfest enduro.

#8

DriverGT5 wrote:

I’ve seen JB Weld do some amazing things but for $150.00 to $200.00, I’ll replace the stock, 16 year-old radiator. At this point, it’s really a wear item.

Carter

#9

Carter wrote:

[quote]brain wrote:

[quote]Carter,

Any other suggestions from the group?

Carter

ps. Now that you mention it, I’ll probably replace the water hose that runs behind the engine, against the firewall. This hose failed on Robert Patton’s car during the Octoberfest enduro.[/quote]

Remember that hoses fail from the inside out…visual won’t always show a potential failure. They are not too expensive to consider replacing. the little hoses around the TB and the heater hoses are a good idea to replace.

Post edited by: nasaregistrar, at: 2005/10/26 05:18