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I think I will do the timing belt in the offseason since it’s been 4 years. Does anyone have the parts list of what I need?
I assume the following:
Not sure if there are any other small items like:
I assume that I should do the WP while in there…
Thanks.
Keith
[quote]
I assume the following:
Timing belt kit (belt and tensioner)
Water Pump (pump and gasket)[/quote]
Those are the parts. Here is DIY timing belt and water pump replacement procedure.
You can get parts from SE sponsors, althought sometimes there are good deals here as well.
Keith - do the camshaft oil seal and O-ring while you have it all apart. I’ve done this twice now, and this is a common source of leaks. Dave Pallister gave me a tip on the O-ring. Lube it up with oil and use a small screw driver to make sure you get keep it in the groove as you push it in, otherwise it will get twisted and break.
Ed
That should cover everything, just make sure you glue the gasket (I use contact cement) to the pump before you install it, the cheap gasket they give you with the pump is kinda flimsy and is hard to keep from pinching and aligned since you have to rotate the pump to get the holes to line up (also compress and safety wire the tensioner spring it’ll make life a ton easier to get the pump in position)
Other than that shouldn’t take too long unless your balancer rusted to the hub, like mine, then you’ll have to take the big nut that holds the balancer hub to the crank which can be a pain. (put the car in 5th have some one stand on the brakes and get a really big breaker bar)
Definatley use a gasket sealer on the water pump gasket. The instructions that come with it say you don’t but I have seen them fail due to not using a sealer nad getting pinched or not seated properly.
I just finished this job today. Never a bad idea to do other maintenance items while you’re pulling them. I enjoyed doing the timing belt job so much, that i decided to make myself do it twice. I can’t emphasize enough- DEFINITELY use silicon or some other gasket sealer to set the waterpump gasket to the water pump.
My first time through, I didn’t use any sealant or anything. After all the work, everything was back on the car- had just mounted the radiator, belts, hoses, etc. When I started adding coolant, a good sized leak developed from the top of the water pump. Re-torqued the two bolts that were accessible w/o pulling the timing cover (bottom one is covered), but no dice on stopping the leak. Evidently I had pinched the gasket, and it wasn’t making a good seal.
To make things worse, in order to pull the water pump, you have to pull absolutely everything, including the timing belt tensioner/belt.
Please learn from my mistake 
My part list was:
tstat + oring
oil + filter
waterpump + gasket
new coolant hoses
new belts
new plugs
new cap + rotor
new timing belt
new t-belt tensioner, spring, and pin
Glad that you are done with the project. It gets easier second time around 
. By third time you’ll be pro
Actually, to change h20 pump you don’t have to remove timing belt, only pin and spring. Trick is to slowly rotate (pivot around bottom bolt) h2o pump to remove/set timing belt pin…
Well I’m about half way there in the tear down part. I ordered a camshaft seal and o/ring but don’t see any specific instructions in Bentley for replacement. Is there anything I need to know or is it apparant? Thanks.
Keith
You have to remove the cam gear (I use a quick shot with the impact gun to get the bolt out) and will need to figure out a way to immobalize the cam if its attached to the head. A vice grip and an old timing belt should do the trick.
After that there are just two bolts to loosen and you can pull the gasket carrier out. Replace seals and repeat in reverse.
JP
This will probably be obvious once I’m looking at it… but is this done with the timing belt off? I’m terrified of getting the cam/crank out of sync!!!
Keith
Keith, I haven’t done it this way, but I’m pretty sure you can zing loose the retaining bolt (female torx) before you remove the timing belt. Break the bolt loose, don’t remove the bolt or cam gear, then remove the timing belt with the marks lined up.
After that, then you can remove the cam gear and proceed with the seals.
The cam gear will only go back on one way, it has an alignment notch in it. I’ve broken 3 cam gears loose with the impact and the cam itself hasn’t moved on any of them. I reinstall the torx bolt by hand though.
If you are paying attention it will be pretty tough to get out of alignment.