New E30 Owner


#1

So my name is Austin and I’m from Tennessee. I own an E36 328i/4 and I just bought a 1987 325iS/5 that is Hellrot-ish (sanded / prepped to paint). I am planning to fix the things it needs fixed and then turn it in to a beautiful SpecE30! But I need suggestions as to what to do first since I’m going to draw it out a bit until my income picks up. Here is my to-do list:

-Fix clutch (bled or new master/slave cylinder)
-Add rear shock mounts
-Fix idle problem (ICV perhaps)
-SpecE30
-Paint

The fourth is the one on which I want suggestions. I was thinking a good first-mod would be a short shift kit or would that be too rice-y? Here are some pictures!



The interior is pretty much mint but I will take good care of it while it’s out of the car :stuck_out_tongue:


#2

Re. idle problem. Don’t work too hard on it. I tried hard to fix my surging idle. Checking hoses, and replacing ICV and ICV switch didn’t do it. Finally I decided screw it, I don’t need to idle at the track so I plugged the ICV.

Re. short shift kit. Consider orienting on “precision” not “short”. If your shifter feels sloppy then buy something that brings the precision back. That could be an SSK. There are some good write-ups at BF.c on improving the precision of shifting, and there were smart folks in the thread that disagreed on whether or not a SSK was the way to put the precision back into shifting.

Be sure to replace your old tranny mounts because they too can impact shifting issues. And while your at it, replace your motor mounts. And make sure that your passenger side motor motor mount heat shield is in place otherwise your new motor mount will melt. All that stuff can be bought from our sponsors.


#3

Looks like a nice car to start with. I would get it running correctly and then do the following before you hit the track:

Call Chris at bimmerparts.com
timing belt/water pump
replace all coolant hoses
new radiater/or buy a spare to bring
full tune up
remove the entire front and rear suspension and replace all the bushings
replace the hubs on all four corners and add screw in studs
rebuild the brake calipers on all four corners
new motor mounts
new trans mounts
new guibo
new center support bearing for driveshaft
new fuel pump
new fuel filter
new rubber fuel lines
replace everything else
add a cage and spec e30 equipment
Go racing

Before you come to the track its a good idea to replace all of the above and more because the old parts will fail you at the track. You dont want to spend your time chasing this stuff down at the race track, its very costly and time consuming.


#4

Where are you located in TN? I’m in Nashville… good to have another Tennessean on here!


#5

I actually have not driven this car at all or any E30 extensively so I will tell you if it’s precise or not once I drive it!

Also woa that’s a lot to do, I’d better find a job.

Thanks =]

I’m in Franklin.

PS: What are those hub stud things for?


#6

bineon wrote:

[quote]

PS: What are those hub stud things for?[/quote]

We don’t use lug bolts, we use lug nuts. The nuts thread on to “studs” that are threaded into the hubs. The advantage of this is that it is easy to see the condition of your threads. Also, studs should be replaced every year or two. Easier to replace the studs then the hubs. Sometimes.

Example: http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_17_22&products_id=39


#7

GREAT! Another Spec e30 in the Nashville area. If you want to check my car out, just let me know. I can probably help with some of the things to watch out for and give you some ideas of what (and what NOT) to do.


#8

Ranger wrote:

[quote]Re. idle problem. Don’t work too hard on it. I tried hard to fix my surging idle. Checking hoses, and replacing ICV and ICV switch didn’t do it. Finally I decided screw it, I don’t need to idle at the track so I plugged the ICV.

[/quote]

Ranger,

Where in the rules does it say you can plug the ICV? I thougth you were all rules all the time B)

Michael
#36
Great Lakes Region


#9

ilateapex wrote:

[quote]Ranger wrote:

[quote]Re. idle problem. Don’t work too hard on it. I tried hard to fix my surging idle. Checking hoses, and replacing ICV and ICV switch didn’t do it. Finally I decided screw it, I don’t need to idle at the track so I plugged the ICV.

[/quote]

Ranger,

Where in the rules does it say you can plug the ICV? I thougth you were all rules all the time B)

Michael
#36
Great Lakes Region[/quote]

I can figure out what the rules mean as well as the next guy. But if you look hard enough at any car you will see some rule broken. Something will be missing that isn’t expressly specified as removable, or something inconsequential will be broke.

After a person spends a couple hundred $$ chasing down an issue that is entirely not a performance issue, then at some point common sense has to prevail. Imagine if someone had an electrical gremlin and was faced with spending a grand to fix a turn signal. That would be silly.

If someone wants to protest my goofed ICV/ICV Switch/Vacuum problem, or whatever is causing the surging idle, there’s nothing I can do to stop them. I expect they may be met with some derision for such a petty protest against a back packer. And for the rest of my SpecE30 life I’m would park next to them in the paddock and let my howling surging idle drive them nuts.

The rules, like everything else we do in life, need to be tempered by common sense.

Unless you are in the Army, of course.


#10

Scott,

I can’t remember from your thread on BF.c, but are you running a 153 DME or 173. Might try swapping DME’s to fix your crappy idle problem. All DME’s can be linked to crappy idle, but the 153 is most common. I think you were running a 173, but the DME could still be the cause.

Greg


#11

87isMan wrote:

[quote]Scott,

I can’t remember from your thread on BF.c, but are you running a 153 DME or 173. Might try swapping DME’s to fix your crappy idle problem. All DME’s can be linked to crappy idle, but the 153 is most common. I think you were running a 173, but the DME could still be the cause.

Greg[/quote]

Roger. The DME/ECU was the next thing to replace in this effort. Mine’s a 173. But at the time I didn’t have a spare and the bill from the shop fruitlessly chasing the problem sucked all my motivation out of me.

I was like “I’ve fudging spent $250 trying to make my racecar idle nicely? Am I out of my mind?”


#12

I’ve got a spare 173 I would be willing to send you. If it fixes your problem keep it, and we can settle up at RA, if not just give it back to me at RA. PM me on BF.c

Greg

Back on topic sorry


#13

Welcome! My advice would be to first make it reliable, then safe, then fast. At this stage, you don’t need a SSK or wheel studs. But you would benefit from having a Bentley. Not sure what is wrong with your clutch, but it is important to have a reliable clutch. And for sure important is brakes that will stop you so look at the piston area and rebuild if needed - it’s cheap and fairly easy. Probably want a good inspection of pads and rotors. Rotors are cheap and easy ($120 for all 4), and there’s tons of info about pads if you do a search. Replace all your fluids, filters, and possibly hoses (after a close inspection).

You could start a spares box for the track and if you replace your pads or radiator hoses proactively, you can keep the old ones for spares and feel confident in what you have installed and you have a fall back rather than having something new in a box while you’re out running on old stuff.

There’s a lot of things that lead to an uneven idle - vacuum hoses, a DME, ICV, heck maybe a bad fuel pump or clogged filter, who knows. But it’s a process of elimination and correcting old stuff that needs fixing and you’ll get it eventually. It can be a pain, but it’s good practice to fix stuff that’s wrong with your car.

Sorry to be kind of blunt - I received similar advice when I was starting out, and some I listened and some I paid a price for not heeding. Brakes are critical and developing the car’s reliability will be sure you have a fun day at the track without losing sessions because of something silly you should have done in the comfort of your garage.

Good luck with it, please keep us up to speed on your progress.