NASA-SE: Firecracker Run, Charlotte(CMS), July 2-3

#41

I run the Bimmerworld setup (shocking right?) and find it to be stellar. The bend you see is not for clearance, it actually bends downward, hurting clearance. The purpose of that bend is to have the bar parallel to the ground instead of angled down like most bars where they connect to the end-links.

The benefit here is that you’re actually getting the proper effect of a swaybar even on the stiffest setting without any binding. The downside is that if your car is low, you HAVE to run the bar on full stiff or it will hit the axles. You can run it on the medium setting with a 5mm spring pad. I actually run it on full stiff with a spring pad to lift the rear a touch.

If your car is too loose with a swaybar on soft setting, something else is wrong. I’ve driven quite a few of these things and the stiffer the better, if it’s working right.

#42

This conversation may end up being better had in a different thread, but aside from rear swaybars:

Alignment? Condition of shocks? Front Sway? Weight balance? RTABS? Tires?

There are so many reasons for a car to handle poorly, swaybars should be one of the last things you hunt down. In my opinion swaybars are like aerodynamics, you use them to fine tune the handling of a car that’s already setup properly. You don’t want to be covering up handling problems with crazy swaybar setups.

Go do a test day and set the sway to medium, make sure the car is weighted properly, make sure the alignment is good, check the shocks, and don’t waste your time on crappy tires. As soon as the tires heat cycle out these cars all get loose. Once you’ve done all of the above and the car feels “good” then you start playing with the rear sway. Again - just my opinion.

#43

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