We’ll have to pace our smack talk.
Its a long time until December
I’m sure all of those other people are nice but I like the SE crowd so I’ll wait my 70 long days.
Bill - get a junkyard motor try R3v boards, e30 tech, etc. There was one on Craig’s list the other day for $160. Patton or Chuck may even have one sitting around. Or Alex Molitor might have one as well.
Or
Tell Harrison you need new rod bearings, that should fix your old motor. I know Chuck has swapped these out on his car with the engine still in the car.
Those are the two probably cheapest / quickest options.
M3Bill wrote:
Wow, M3Ashley came down on you that hard huh? Be thankful you left when you did and BTR and MLT didn’t have their way with M3Ashley’s mom…
Cut Harrison a check and show up in December. You have 5 basic options:
- Get a junkyard motor (or take one of the 1,643 that Kelley Childress has ripped through)
- Put your head onto a junkyard bottom end.
- Rebuild the bottom end.
- Rebuild the head and bottom end.
- Go big and get a Travis Wilson cheater motor.
Pick one in ascending order per size of check to cut. Where’s the confusion?
IndyJim wrote:
But doesn’t that run the risk that the metal shavings in the oil caused other damage to the engine? Or do I not really care?
IndyJim wrote:
[quote]I hope M3Ashley isn’t TeddyM3’s sister.
Or TinyM2 as Yee calls him.[/quote]
She’s not. She is very intelligent, so they can’t have the same parents.
Well you won’t really know the extent of any damage until it is apart.
I will say that Craig, Ranger, and Chuck have all had this same problem and rebuilt at least the bottom end and been fine.
The big question is has the crank been damaged, then you kind of look around from there.
Put in an oil scraper when you do this.
BTW, I had the bearings replaced in my motor earlier this year. Given the cost of that effort, a junkyard motor or a complete rebuild might have been smarter. I’m going to do a dyno test this winter. Would be a bummer to find that my new bottom end supports a motor with worn out valves, head and rings.
M3Bill wrote:
[quote]IndyJim wrote:
But doesn’t that run the risk that the metal shavings in the oil caused other damage to the engine? Or do I not really care?[/quote]
Ahhh, that’s why you replace the oil pump (as well as it may be tired and/or suspect for the bearing failure) and that is also why the engine has an oil filter.
Seriously, you’se guys need to dyno test these engines to know how much to replace when a problem arises.Chances are you can look at the crankshaft and, with no damage, just roll in some new bearings. I’ve got to do this job this off season to the #8 car. The upper end is good for 155-160 hp already.
As another example, if the problem was a rocker arm, would you fix the arm only, or remove the cylinder head for a head rebuild?
Anyone up for a trip to Balanced Performance?
Regards, Robert Patton
ClemsonMotorWerks wrote:
[quote]its ok Jim, we know you’re getting weak in your old age
only ~70 days to go[/quote]
actually… it’s 71 days and 15 hours to the drop of the flag for the 8hour Enduro… but who’s counting? :S
TheRedBaron wrote:
[quote]
Cut Harrison a check and show up in December. You have 5 basic options:
- Get a junkyard motor (or take one of the 1,643 that Kelley Childress has ripped through)
- Put your head onto a junkyard bottom end.
- Rebuild the bottom end.
- Rebuild the head and bottom end.
- Go big and get a Travis Wilson cheater motor.
Pick one in ascending order per size of check to cut. Where’s the confusion?[/quote]
Dammit Craig, get your facts straight. I rip through Pressure Plates, not motors!!!
Though I guess I have tried a couple motors trying to fix that issue. :unsure: Actually I heard Harrison has a few spare motors floating around his shop so (depending on the check) Bill could have a motor ready to go in pretty easily.
On a side note, the John Deere special made it through the whole weekend at Road Atlanta without a pressure plate failure. Not absolutely sure it’s fixed but it’s a promising start.
- just a quick chuckle and you guys can go back to the original programming.
I had a chance to drive the John Deere Special as a test driver last weekend. I have a small velcro pads on sides of my helmet where I stick the H&N device quick release cable.
So I get in to Kelly’s car and get all settled in. Take it out from the pit and on T1, my head leans to left and the velcro pad gets stuck on the Racetech seat with a huge side head protection.
So I am making the turn and trying to pull my helmet off the seat. And when I do, the helmet swings to the other side and gets stuck on that side.
So for the whole session, I am fighting to keep my head in the middle and not to get stuck on the two giant claws waiting to grab my helmet. You have to remember there was only about 2-3" of clearance on either sides.
That was interesting.
- ok, back to the original thread. Sorry for the detour.
csrow wrote:
[quote]* just a quick chuckle and you guys can go back to the original programming.
I had a chance to drive the John Deere Special as a test driver last weekend. I have a small velcro pads on sides of my helmet where I stick the H&N device quick release cable.
So I get in to Kelly’s car and get all settled in. Take it out from the pit and on T1, my head leans to left and the velcro pad gets stuck on the Racetech seat with a huge side head protection.
So I am making the turn and trying to pull my helmet off the seat. And when I do, the helmet swings to the other side and gets stuck on that side.
So for the whole session, I am fighting to keep my head in the middle and not to get stuck on the two giant claws waiting to grab my helmet. You have to remember there was only about 2-3" of clearance on either sides.
That was interesting.
- ok, back to the original thread. Sorry for the detour.[/quote]
Laughed 'till I had tears in my eyes.