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One of my exhaust manifold gasket/heat shields has burned through. I’m guessing having all that heat directly on the spark plug/wire is not a good thing.
How easy is to to replace the gasket? I would hate to break off a stud just trying to replace the gasket. Other option would be to just add another layer of heat resistant material on top. Can you say jury rig!
Thanks.
smithk3933 wrote:
[quote]One of my exhaust manifold gasket/heat shields has burned through. I’m guessing having all that heat directly on the spark plug/wire is not a good thing.
How easy is to to replace the gasket? I would hate to break off a stud just trying to replace the gasket. Other option would be to just add another layer of heat resistant material on top. Can you say jury rig!
Thanks.[/quote]
Technically it is easy but in practice the law of murphy rules. Unless you plan the time to deal with the stuckness , rig up the heat shield.The nuts "Should" be copper and "Should"come loose but I have had the studa come loose from the head instead of the nuts coming off
Murphy!! That’s the guy I’m terrified of! My concern is the 10 minute job turning into a major project of time and $! I may try to "rig" a shield using new gasket or other heat resistant materials.
Thanks.
Keith
During my "nut and bolt check" I noticed that three of my exhaust manifold studs broke-off. The nuts are gone (sounds like a personal problem :blink: ) but the studs are sticking out of the head, thankfully.
I’m considering trying to do it myself but am afraid I’ll get into it and will break-off one or more below the surface of the head. And we all know how mechanics like to "clean up" someone else’s work.
My plan is to spray them all with penetrating oil, every few hours, for a couple of days and then try to get them off.
Any other advice from the group?
Carter
Carter,
The penetrating oil sounds like a good idea. I had this happen to me on an old volkswagen. Snap-on and MAC tools make a nifty stud remover if you have at least 1/4 inch or so of stud showing. I’d be happy to send mine to you to use (left over from the VW project!)
Ed
edavidson wrote:
[quote]Carter,
The penetrating oil sounds like a good idea. I had this happen to me on an old volkswagen. Snap-on and MAC tools make a nifty stud remover if you have at least 1/4 inch or so of stud showing. I’d be happy to send mine to you to use (left over from the VW project!)
Ed
[/quote]
Ditto…I was going to suggest exactly that tool.Try to tighten it just a tiny bit first before loosening it and/or if you can heat the stud then quench it quickly, that may help too
Thanks for the good suggestions guys.
Ed, I’ll barrow that tool, if you have it handy. Send me an email and let’s get it worked out. I’d like to do it this weekend, if possible. I’ll gladly pay shipping both ways.
Thanks.
Carter
Carter,
"PB Blaster"
The only stuff I know that penetrates just about everything and prevents the "mistake trip" to the mechanic.
If I make it into the race, I will bring you a can.
-Steve
stevekappy wrote:
[quote]Carter,
"PB Blaster"
The only stuff I know that penetrates just about everything and prevents the "mistake trip" to the mechanic.
If I make it into the race, I will bring you a can.
-Steve[/quote]PB Blaster is good Chit
stevekappy wrote:
[quote]Carter,
"PB Blaster"
The only stuff I know that penetrates just about everything and prevents the "mistake trip" to the mechanic.
If I make it into the race, I will bring you a can.
-Steve[/quote]
I’ll pickup a can tomorrow.
Thanks.
Carter
All:
I got the PB Blaster at Advance Auto today. The can looks like it was designed in the 50’s. 
I also called my local BMW dealership and they have to order the manifold gaskets ($50.00 for the pair!) and the studs and nuts. They’ll arrive on Wednesday.
Not wanting to wait until the Wed night before packing up Thursday afternoon, I bought three pairs (two studs and two nuts in each box) of generic black grade 8, M8 corse thread studs and conventional-looking gold colored nuts, at Advance Auto, as well as their E30 manifold gaskets ($29.00 for the pair) that will arrive Sunday morning. My good friend (and soon-to-be Spec E30 racer) Ken will let me use his heated garage just up the street to do the swap.
Am I making a mistake by using the generic studs or is this not a real-specific part? I like to save money when possible but I also don’t mind spending more money on something that is much better. Time is also an issue but I’ll wait and use the BMW parts if it’s real important.
Or, should I use these to get through the Saturday sprint and then use the BMW studs and exhaust nuts for the rest of the season? I know that the exhaust nuts have a particular design.
Thanks!
Carter
Hey Carter,
You could use brass nuts that I believe are in stock at most Autozone stores. Still use antiseize though. By the way, did you get the tool?
Ed
edavidson wrote:
[quote]Carter,
The penetrating oil sounds like a good idea. I had this happen to me on an old volkswagen. Snap-on and MAC tools make a nifty stud remover if you have at least 1/4 inch or so of stud showing. I’d be happy to send mine to you to use (left over from the VW project!)
Ed
[/quote]
Ed:
I received the tool.
I’ll give it back to you at VIR.
Thanks!
Carter
nasaregistrar wrote:
My original tube of antiseize (from 1992) is almost empty so I bought the exact same-type tube today.
Twice today, I coated the nuts with PB Blaster. I’ll do it two or three more times tomorrow, as well as Sunday morning. I’ll try them Sunday afternoon.
I’m really concerned because they are all VERY rusty. I’m glad I have Ed’s stud remover tool!
And I’ll use the included nuts for this weekend and will replace them with the BMW exhaust nuts next week.
Thanks for the advice.
Carter
Carter,
As I think someone already mentioned, don’t forget to tighten the nuts/studs just a bit before unfastening them.
Igor
Carter wrote:
[quote]Thanks for the tip Igor.
I hadn’t heard that before but I’ll do it for sure.
Carter[/quote]Several months ago in Grassroots, Per did an article on the methods to un stick fasteners…it was a good article.
Carter, definitely try to tighten first. It is like magic and fools the fastener into thinking you want it to go one way when you really mean the other…
Well, the job took a little longer than expected (as usual) but went well, overall.
Coating everything with Blaster about 6 times over two days must have helped.
Of the 12 studs, three were broken off, about six came out with the nut still on the stud, and about three nuts came off and left its stud in the head.
I didn’t unbolt the manifolds from the downpipes but I will next time! I was hoping that I could just pull the manifolds back enough to remove the three broken studs (Ed’s tool worked great), replace them, and put it all back together. This is what I did…but having the manifolds completely out of the way would have been easier for sure.
And the big surprise was how difficult it was to get the manifolds back on the head. I had moved the wrinkled semi-flexible part of the dwontubes and pushing them back straight, while leaning into the engine bay did a number on my forty year-old back and shoulders. Pulling, pushing, and twisting them for 30 minutes was tough.
I finally got them on and bolted everything back together. It took about 2 hours and having Ken’s heated garage for the work was nice.
If anyone needs/wants to do it, feel free to email me for more tips.
Carter