Getting ready to track an E30

#1

Hi all I am new here and I am getting ready to buy an E30 so I can track it, but I couldn’t quite tell if 318’s were allowed in the Spec E30 races… Are 325’s the only E30 allowed? Thanks for the help in advance.

#2

They are, but there’s a little work to it. Refer to the regs - http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/spec30_rules.pdf

7.3.2

Eligible vehicles
include E30 cars originally built as a 318i, 318is, 325, 325E, or 325i provided they contain
the Spec E30 eligible drivetrain from a car originally built as a 325i or 325is.

#3

They are, but there’s a little work to it. Refer to the regs - http://www.nasaproracing.com/rules/spec30_rules.pdf

7.3.2

Eligible vehicles
include E30 cars originally built as a 318i, 318is, 325, 325E, or 325i provided they contain
the Spec E30 eligible drivetrain from a car originally built as a 325i or 325is.[/quote]

Thanks for the reply. I completely skipped over that part even though it’s highlighted.
So does that mean if I do a 318is that I have to have a 325i/is engine and transmission?

#4

Yes, that’s what it means. But don’t forget the 3.73LSD diff. Whole drive train from 325i/is.

#5

Sounds like a plan. Thanks for the help. Hopefully I will be out there some time this year then.

#6

I am going to jump in here. Just sold my Spec Miata and getting ready to purchase a Spec 30 to race in the Texas region. I see that the eligible vehicles,

include E30 cars originally built as a 318i, 318is, 325, 325E, or 325i provided they contain the Spec E30 eligible drivetrain from a car originally built as a 325i or 325is.

I am assuming that Spec E30 works like Spec Miata, in that the rules favor certain model years and changes in rules changes the model and year. Having been down this path before, the only option for me is to purchase a proven race car with a log book. So what year and model do I look for?

Thanks

#7

Don’t worry about model year.

The only meaningful difference in model years is in bumpers 87 and earlier have stout AL bumpers. 89 and later have pretty and not as stout plastic bumpers. 88 also has AL bumpers but as the transition year the bumper, plastic and nearby sheetmetal have some subtle differences that won’t matter 99% of the time.

Early vs. late bumpers take a different OEM (front) air dam. Or you can put on an aftermarket air dam.

My preference is the early model with the stout bumper, but the field is probably even divided between the two.

It’s not that hard to do a bumper swap from early to late, so in the end it matters even less what you start with.

#8

The fuel system is a bit better on the plastic bumper cars.

#9

[quote=“Ranger” post=76049]Don’t worry about model year.

The only meaningful difference in model years is in bumpers[/quote]

Wow I find this hard to believe. Almost like here is a noob lets have fun with him.

So does the model make a difference? 325i verses a 325 is? Or a 318 or 325 or 325e with a 325i or 325is drive train.?

#10

The 325i is the sedan, 325is is the coupe same goes for the 318. The ix means all wheel drive. gear ratio is different on the 325 versus 318, it is typically 3.73 for the 325 and 4.10 for the 318 when equipped with an LSD. The engine in the 325 is the m20 inline 6 whereas the 318 is the m42 a 4 cylinder. Other than that I couldn’t really speak to much else of the difference.

#11

I’m not sure I’d agree with all of the above, but I’m no authority on the issue. I think there were 325i sedans and coupes. Maybe also for the 325is. In the context of this thread, it doesn’t really matter tho.

One thing worth clarifying tho is that our engine is the M20B25. The 325e had the M20B27 engine along with a different differential.

As long as you end up with a 325i/is 5spd drive train, you’re good. The convertible is out, but maybe the AWD 325ix could be made to work if you swapped out suspensions. I don’t know the ix well enough to say for sure.

#12

[quote=“DTedeschi” post=76063][quote=“Ranger” post=76049]Don’t worry about model year.

The only meaningful difference in model years is in bumpers[/quote]

Wow I find this hard to believe. Almost like here is a noob lets have fun with him.

So does the model make a difference? 325i verses a 325 is? Or a 318 or 325 or 325e with a 325i or 325is drive train.?[/quote]

If you find that hard to believe, then perhpaps SpecE30 is not the racing series for you. The joy of this series is that there are no advantages. We have very limited adjustability, and there is no clear advantange to any of the chassis that you have to pick from. Most people start with a 325is because it has everything you want to race:

M20B25
Getrag 5 Speed Tranny
3.73 LSD Diff

As mentioned you can throw those things in any chassis and race.

#13

[quote=“DTedeschi” post=76047]I am going to jump in here. Just sold my Spec Miata and getting ready to purchase a Spec 30 to race in the Texas region. I see that the eligible vehicles,

include E30 cars originally built as a 318i, 318is, 325, 325E, or 325i provided they contain the Spec E30 eligible drivetrain from a car originally built as a 325i or 325is.

I am assuming that Spec E30 works like Spec Miata, in that the rules favor certain model years and changes in rules changes the model and year. Having been down this path before, the only option for me is to purchase a proven race car with a log book. So what year and model do I look for?

Thanks[/quote]

Get a plastic bumper car. They look nicer. :slight_smile:
All of the SpecE30s run the same motor and the chassis is the same. So it is a bit different than a SM and a lot less controversial.

#14

It’s also worth pointing out the very early E30s don’t have ABS. Beyond that any E30 body style, any year, with the proper SpecE30 drivetrain, equally prepared, is equally competitive. (The debate rages on about convertibles.) There are some mechanical differences through the years, but they are so minor they make a negligible difference performance-wise. The major differences are purely cosmetic.

That being said, I feel I lucked out a bit finding my car. It’s an '88 325is. Correct drivetrain, two door, beefy aluminum bumpers, trunk spoiler, later style front valence, and the later style fuel tank which is less starvation prone. To me it’s THE perfect starting point for a SpecE30 build. However, all of these desirable items can be added to just about any E30 chassis. I simply saved time and money in not sourcing and installing those items to a chassis that didn’t already have them.

#15

Andrew makes a good point re. ABS. I think it was optional in '86 and nonexistent prior. We are required to have ABS so one could find themselves forced to install it if they had an early car. “Forced to install” would probably mean just put the pump in place. Likely no one would care if the wiring, computer or sensors were in place.

#16

[quote=“King Tut” post=76066]

If you find that hard to believe, then perhpaps SpecE30 is not the racing series for you. The joy of this series is that there are no advantages. We have very limited adjustability, and there is no clear advantange to any of the chassis that you have to pick from.[/quote]

Actually if this is true it makes the series more attractive to me. You have to remember I came from a series, Spec Miata, that this was also suppose to be the case. Purchase the same suspension from Mazda Comp that everyone else did, spec weights, same spec tire, and so forth and so on. Some how folks managed to pull you on the straights which is odd when everyone is suppose to be even. Folks would spend 7K and up on an engine build to gain 7 more horses. Not saying it happens in Spec E30 as I have not been out there,but if everyone is driving an equal vechile that is what I am looking for.

I am sorry about digressing about SM. I am really here to find out as much as I can about Spec E 30.

I think my biggest challenge is going to be the purchase of a car. Since I am in Texas and I only know of two Spec E30 that are race able and I don’t think Jeff or Mark are going to part with theirs soon, I need to go out of state to get a car. Building one is out of the picture based on experience.

#17

Take a road trip. We’ve got lots of pretty snow you can take home with you. :stuck_out_tongue:

My car is in the classifieds. Race legal, log book, all the hard work done. $9500 and you can start running it the week after you’re home. You just have to visit the frozen northeast to get it.

#18

Which ad?

#19

Huh…looks like the wonderful software here didn’t renew my ad last week. Here’s the ad on Racing Junk:
87 325i Spec E30 race car

#20

The renew ad failure has gotten me many a time also. The trick is to make sure that you’re logged into the forum before you click on the “Renew” link. Attempting to renew fails when you’re not logged in, but the failure is kind of subtle so easily missed.