Getting ready for '08 Racing

#1

All:

Annually, I post a few tips on towing, due to the fact that some of the new racers may have never driven a vehicle that is towing 4000 pounds or more. I hope, as in past years, the group will add items that I fail to include.

  1. Make sure you have about 10% of the loaded trailer weight, on the tongue. If the trailer and racecar weigh about 4000 pounds, you should have 400 pounds on the tongue. This helps the trailer track in a steady and predictable way. If you don’t have the correct tongue weight, the trailer will sway and you might end up in a ditch.

  2. One option for determining the correct tongue weight is to use the “Bergstrom” method, named for one of the original Spec E30 racers. If you need 400 pounds on the tongue, measure the unloaded height of the rear bumper, from the ground. Then, have two 200-pound friends sit on the rear of the vehicle and measure how low the rear of the vehicle dropped. Hookup the trailer and roll the racecar forward on the trailer until the tow vehicle drops to the loaded height. Mark a spot on the trailer (I use the front wheel hub and duct tape aka “redneck chrome” on the trailer) so you can put the car in the same spot every time.

  3. Consider a weight distributing hitch. Some think it’s an anti-sway hitch but it’s not. A weight distributing hitch uses two bars to “pry” the hitch forward and upward, which lifts the rear of the tow vehicle. They are expensive (about $500.00 or more) but really help if you’re using a smaller tow vehicle and the correct tongue weight makes the rear drop significantly.

  4. Check the trailer tires and lights at least a week prior to the first race weekend. Chances are, you’ll have a problem with something and having a week to fix it is nice. Driving to the track on a Friday night, with no trailer lights, is no fun. And changing a flat trailer tire on the side of the interstate is definitely no fun. I’ve done both.

  5. Have a good trailer spare tire and have the correct lugwrench for the trailer wheels. And your 2000 pound capacity floorjack will have a tough time lifting the trailer with a race car on it. Consider buying a cheap bottle jack.

Anything else from the group?

Carter

#2

Carter thanks for posting this again, good advice.

I would add practice changing the tire at home, in the dark with a flashlight. I do this with both the trailer and the van.

Check the safety equipment - trailer brakes, emergency brake, tow chains, hitch and coupler.

If you’re just starting out trailering give yourself plenty of extra time and drive slow. Here in Cali, 55mph limit for cars with trailers.

#3

I know towing is serious. In fact, I just mentioned to my tire/suspension guru (don’t worry–I’ll still be slow as shit) that getting to the track is probably the most dangerous part of racing! In light of the danger, this video is particularly funny. I think we might be able to convince at least The Rev. Al and Travis to replicate this mayhem.

Sasha

#4

Thanks Carter,

Good advice for those of us that haven’t done it before.

#5

http://spece30.com/component/option,com_kunena/Itemid,86/func,view/id,19588/catid,15/
and some more points at the article linked here.
cheers,
bruce

#6

Can I TESTIFY??!!:ohmy:

Tonight I blew a trailer tire bringing home my car. Since it was properly inflated and only had 700 miles on it I guess it just hated me.

#7

I’ve blown 4 tires, mostly because the tires that came on the trailer were junk. You can get a chuck to change a trailer tire wheel. You basically drive up it on the one good wheel and the other will be in the air. I just use my wooden ramps stacked together. Also if you blow a tire and the tire delamenates then expect the other tire to blow soon after as it probably got damaged from flailing rubber. Happy trails.

#8

My tow vehicle has a scissor jack with a long rod and ratchet. It fits nicely under the spring shackle.