Finally getting started

#1

The 325is just went into the shop for its first overhaul, I havent had the time or the money up till now, Havent done much except get it running since Forest sold it to me this past summer. but its going in for full suspension, and some other goodies, mostly cooling system related. with the goal of getting thru maryland state inspection, and emissions testing. The car should be ready for HPDE track days in the next few weeks, I will be entering group 2 this summer and trying to get thru that and group 3 , at what point will i be able to test for my spec licence ? the cage and such should go in the comming winter so im still a year out :(, but at least the car will be seeing track duty this year. :slight_smile:

#2

Jonathan:

I don’t know the actual requirement for going to a NASA Comp school so you’ll need to contact NASA about that. Also, you’ll be getting a NASA Competition license. Spec E30 does not control the license process and we do not issue your racing license.

And tell us which NASA Region you’ll be driving with this year.

Carter

#3

Jonathan wrote:

You will need to have the approval of the regional director in the region you wish to take the comp school in. Advise the regional registrar every HPDE that you do, that your goal is to compete and ask to be paired with a race inclined instructor. this will better prepare you. Also let it be known that you do intend to apply for comp school to the director so they will get to know who you are and how you are progressing.

#4

I will be in mid atlantic reagion.

the car came back from the shop from my first post with nothing done they wanted 6000 to fix a ton of problems and get me thru maryland state, the short list was over a page long and had like 60 things on it.

i have since had the car reinspected at a place that doesent do the repair work themselves so their is no incentive ot pad the inspection and only failed on 5 items. :slight_smile:

the car is now in the shop, getting all new belts, the steering fixed, and a 4 wheel allignment. also looking at a neutral safety switch. the inspector said i needed one, but i dont even know does the 1987 325is have one ? the inspector put the car in gear then hit the key and the car moved. that failed for that he said id have to have a switch added even if the car never came with one. well see how it goes. anyway progress is being made finnally !

#5

here she is in current trim

Post edited by: jonathan, at: 2006/05/22 09:34

Post edited by: jonathan, at: 2006/05/22 09:35

#6

hmmm, show me a person who drives a manual car that doesn’t routinely depress the clutch before starting their car …

Sounds like you need to stay away from that first shop.

If you have the time, there are a lot of things you can learn from a Bentley manual and the how-to resources on the internet.
cheers,
bruce

#7

A nice rear shot, the car dosent really have to must rust. not as bad as i was lead to believe from the first shop. they told me with al the underbody rust the car should be scrapped, i didnt think forest sold me crap so when i had the car on the lift i got a good look on the underbelly the car does have a few very small rust holes on fender seams but the floor pans are clean, and the car overall is solid not even the underbody parts are rusted, the car is fairly clean for the age it is and the milieage. and the rust i dont guess will cost more then 1000 to fix professionaly with the best looks, and im not worried about the best looks its under the car. also you cant expect it to be super clean for the price hehe , i got a great deal on a car that runs. body work plans include 2 new front fenders, a new drivers door, and a new hood. all parts will be fairly cheap purchased locally but as you can see the car looks decent as is.

#8

Sounds like your car is in the wrong place. I don’t know Maryland laws but that car DID NOT come with a neutral switch. No switch on the clutch pedal either.

#9

just got my callback from the garage, and you are correct no neutral safety switch the car should not need it for inspection so… i have to go pester the other guy and get him to pass me, anyhow the car will be road ready by tommrow , new belts going on, the steering issue is a bent tie rod end. so new one is going on and a front wheel allignment and viola, street legal e30 i hope… if not ill have to have it inspected at the shop its at, and i know they fill find more problems to pass it. at least i assume so. the place it was inspected and only the 5 things found is a tire place so i imagine its easier to pass the muster there.

#10

It sounds like that first shop was trying to steal your car from you…6000. 00 is rediculuous. Go to the MD DMV to see the actual list of things that are required for the car to pass inspection. Don’t rely on someone who has an interest in it failing in order to get some work.

#11

can you get s fail sticker in MD like you can in VA? that way you can drive away and remedy the defects yourself?

#12

yea i wont be going back there, the shop its at now is costing me 455 dollars to get the new tie rod, new belts and allignment. from there i fix the rust and the rotor, and its off to inspection again. i suppose a trip to the dmv is in order to get a list for myself of what is needed.

#13

i don’t know ive been driving on my expired temp tag, fun stuff ive just been chancing it for the couple mile run between local garages, and home. well my tag is permanent but only had a 30 day wiaver till it had to be inspected.

#14

Sorry to say but that is WAY too much to charge for that amount of work.
There is only an adjustment for toe on the E30
Tie rods are 40.00 each
belts are cheap enough

Here is the MD DMV info
http://mva.state.md.us/AboutMVA/INFO/58000-01T.htm

Post edited by: nasaregistrar, at: 2006/05/22 13:28

#15

well I aggree on the price but my trusted shop that ive been going to for 3 years is the one that said it was 6k in repairs, so i went to a friend of mines shop, at least they fix the things they charge for so… i dont really know what to do. except to pay. i need it to get done one way or another . on hold with the mva i doubt they are going to be helpfull. trustworthy garages are what i have a shortage of that and body shops. :frowning:

#16

Jonathan wrote:

The best money you can spend on that car is the Bentley manual
do the belts yourself
supply the parts (tie rods) www.bmpd.com
get an alignment for 65 bucks because there is NO adjustment in the rear so a 4 wheel alignment is impossible

#17

cool ill look into the bently manual thanks for the info

#18

HECK WITH PAYING FOR THE WHEEL ALIGNMENT…THAT IS WHAT A TAPE MEASURE IS FOR!!!

Try a little in…try a little out…see what you like.

#19

Did you try checking with with local BMWCCA chapter http://www.nccbmwcca.org/index.php?administration
and see if you can find a BMW friendly repair shop?

Admittedly, I am cheap and tend to try to do most repairs myself, but $6k! Seems like they ought to throw in a cage , fire supression system, and full race suspension for that price.
Best of luck,
Ed

#20

If you want the car finished "turn key" style and don’t want to get "F#$ked at the drive through" on price…take five minutes to call Dave Pallister at DP motorwerks in VA beach. He’s built 7 Spec e30’s and know how to do it right. His costs are also very resonable…check out his website…Good luck.

http://dpmotorwerks.com/

Post edited by: brain, at: 2006/05/25 05:54

Post edited by: brain, at: 2006/05/25 05:54