enclosed trailer tie down options

#1

Here’s the new to us trailer setup that came as a package with the SpecE30.


When using the tie downs as shown with SpecE30, the straps interfere with the front lip spoiler unless you get a wheel spoke at the perfect down angle. That’s how the previous owner towed it.
a) I don’t like going to wheel spokes.
b) It’s a factory spoiler so it’s a bitch to remove for loading & unloading; dozen clips that like to break when you try to take it off
c) the SpecE30 has a soft nylon stow strap so that’s not a place to tie down to for towing.

Looking for alternate ideas to tie down the front like:

  1. move the tie down rings closer - should reduce the strap interference
  2. e-track under the front wheels; but I’m not sure how there would be room to cinch it down, any ideas on that?
  3. ???
    other ideas?

We’d also like to make better use of the space between the car & cabinets so moving the straps back in the trailer would be great.

#2

hate to tell you this Jeremy, but that isn’t an e30 :wink:

#3

E30 is safe in a heated garage so we can work on it (new graphics, seat mount, etc…). It sits in the same position.

#4

my preference is to tie down the chassis at the frame rails rather than the wheels, which leaves the chassis bouncing around.
bruce

#5

Would crossing the straps help? I use the front frame points like Bruce suggested, and bought a couple eyes that bolt to the shock mounts in the rear. From lots of reading, it is best not to cross the straps unless absolutely necessary (lots of debate on this out there - but this is what I have read), and never attach to the wheels - you can bend/weaken the wheel, and the wheels are not designed to take a static force like that.

I’d move the d-rings back (or install a new set futher back, and leave the others to tie down whatever), attach it as above, and be done. The d-rings are not expensive.

#6

IMO - There are a few inexpensive “i-let” options you can buy from Pegasus or Coleman that will allow you to bolt a simple tab to the rear lower shock mount to accommodate the rear. I prefer to cross the tie downs anchoring to these new tabs and the front to the lower control arms. I don’t like to tie to the chassis as the bouncing can cause slack in the ties. I’ve also done the line through the wheels trick, but that can cause alignment issues, ie tow-in and even bent wheels and tie rods, so you should be careful about how tight you go with this procedure.

#7

I have read so many arguments on this issue, I decided to go with the wheel tie downs on the rear of the car. We have towed 2 cars on a 2 car trailer over 2500 miles the last 2 years with no problems tieing the cars down to the wheels. The stress placed on the wheels during the course of a race is likely much harsher than that during towing. The d-rings to the rear lower shock mounts is likely not any different in terms of stress to the car/suspension. We tie the front of the car to the tow hooks and the rear to the wheels and will likely continue to do this as it has worked well with no problems.
Ed

#8

Tieing down to the wheels, shock mounts, and especially the control arms just seem like really bad ideas to me. I must be missing something. What would be the reason you would not use the factory tie down locations?

#9

T-hooks in the frame rails are certainly an option, just not a very convenient one. I’ve towed an S2000 before and that was the only option there (unlike other Hondas).

We’ve got the shock eyelets in the back, so that’s not an issue. Just trying to improve the front setup.
I thought someone might have come up with a better option that was specific to the E30 chassis.

I think no matter what we are going to have to put another set of d-rings closer to the car.

#10

I tied the rear down at the wheels for much of this season, but it changed the toe a lot and I will not be doing it anymore. I would expect the same results from the shock mounts or anything on the suspension. The rear frame hooks can be tough to get to if your straps are coming from a ways back, but it’s a workable solution.

#11

I use axle straps wrapped around the rear sub frame in the rear and the factory hooks up front. This really keeps the car from bouncing around at all.

#12

mskeen wrote:

I am in agreement with you. Rear Toe out is bad and if you tie down to the wheel, shock, trailing arm you are at risk of bending something.

Where are the frame tie downs you speak of? I use the ones just infront of the rear wheels on the inside fender. Are there others?

On the front I use the factory eyelet on the frame rail. No crossing of straps.

Michael

#13

Mine has some in back of the rear wheels on the inside fender. '87 car

#14

Mine does too but they look flimsy and are surrounded by little bits of rust. That’s why I ended up wrapping around the sub frame. Pretty tough to bend that!

#15

mskeen wrote:

I use the factory tie downs in the rear as well. They are known to break though and one of mine is bending after use this year. I also cross the straps in the the front and rear as this is the only way to mount them on my open trailer. I’ve towed like this for 6 years and not had a problem. I’m going to have the rears reinforced before next year though.

#16

You’re right. Mine are also behind the rear tire. I just remember reaching in to hook them. So we seem to be using the same spot in the rear.

Some don’t like this but I actually use chain in the rear with hooks and then use the two front straps to tighten everything down. The fronts rub on the control arms and I have some cardboard taped there to keep the strap from fraying. The chain is adjustable by just moving the hook to a different link. I use this for my enclosed trailer or my open trailers for the E30 and it works fine.

Michael