Diff bolts working loose

#1

Obviously I should have used locktight on them when doing the rear subframe bushings :blush: , but was wondering if the top bolts are accessible without dropping the rear subframe some. Any tool combination reccomendations?

#2

“Disclaimer: This method is not in the rules and therefore it is not Spec E30 legal”.

I was shown this method by a high ranking SE30 authority and it makes for a very easy diff install. Use a 1 1/2 whole saw and cut a hole above the two top bolts in the trunk. You can easily line up the holes in the diff and subframe making installation a breeze. If you are worried about the holes in the trunk you can use duct tape or find some large rubber grommets to fill them.

#3

screwynewy wrote:

[quote]“Disclaimer: This method is not in the rules and therefore it is not Spec E30 legal”.

:blink: That’s fine for now, as I won’t be ready to compete for a year or so. I’m currently in HPDE group 2, but have 13 track weekends planned for this year.

If I follow this route, how would I go about making the car spec legal again? Weld filler plates over the holes?

edit: :wink: Thanks for the advice, I’ll go this route as I am definately NOT looking forward to dropping the subframe again!:frowning: :angry: :S

#4

I retighten mine frequently - you can reach them with a regular open end wrench without dropping the frame. 19 mm I believe.
Ed

#5

Thanks Ed!
Would you reccomend locktite blue?

#6

Ed’s right, a standard 19mm (3/4 inch) open ended wrench can get to the bolts but it just takes longer to tighten them. If the holes don’t line up you can spend a lot of time guessing which direction to shift the diff to get them started. This is were accessing from the top side is really a time saver.

As far as what to do with the holes if you go at it from inside the trunk, I left mine open and no one has said anything to me about it. As Carter would say, no one is going to protest you for it.

#7

Thanks for all your help guys!B)

#8

That is a great idea! Thanks for the post.

#9

I figured out a decent trick for lining the diff up to the holes. There is very little wiggle room and it has to be lined up PERFECTLY for the bolts to start.

Since i didnt have a long bolt of proper thread around, i used a tap to thread in from the bottom of the diff up through the hole in the subframe. I think the taper of the tap tip helps find the hold a little easier. This then lines it up at one point and from there you can pretty quickly/easily rotate the diff on this one point to find the adjacent hole. Once that bolt is in, replace the tap w/ its bolt (from the top of course). The top two are always lined up for me once the fronts are in.