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[quote=“Foglght” post=62596]Are the swing arm reinforcements actually needed?
I was looking at them the other day and didn’t think they looked particularly feeble.[/quote]
The sway bar fastening points on the trailing arms aren’t very strong. They won’t take the additional stress applied by the larger Spec rear sway. They need to be reinforced or one of them will bust pretty quick. Fab some steel bits or buy the kit.
How about the fronts then? Is the reinforcement actually needed?
The car came with 25mm front and 22 rear without any issues. I know it was tracked.
Part of what I find interesting is that this sway kit is allowed at all considering the “spirit” of the class. I end up buying $500 worth of swaybars, and that involves welding of multiple pieces. Thankfully I can weld this myself, otherwise I’d have to pay someone to do it.
What other ancillary stuff do I need?
Stickers, patches, etc?
I thought my IE stuff was going to arrive this weekend, but I guess not. Car won’t start for another week or two. Dammit.
Another question.
When installing the CAB into the arm, the fittment is pretty darn tight. It has been fairly obvious that the CAB needs to be “pressed” onto the arm. Is there enough rotational stress to allow them to fall into place after some driving, or do these things need to be marked when sitting level on the ground and then pressed out and back on again at ride height to keep them from pre-loading?
Lubricate (with water based lube) and install the bushings. Immediately set the car on its wheels and allow it to sit overnight.
Is there any book/manual/anything that states to do this, or any other alternative method?
TIS’s are BMW Technical Service Documents. They were how BMW communicated service info to dealer service dept’s.
So, I finished the spec exhaust install, welding and all. Filled with water, buttoned everyhthing up and started her up. ran good except the idle surge.
Spent some time researching why it could be and I finally remembered that when I first bought the car it came with a Miller MAF conversion. After reading the instruction manual it states to take the connector apart for the ECU and to splice pin 12 into pin 37. Not sure what those two pins are for, but I’m heading back out to swap them back.
I was also concerned that the coolant temp seemed to work, right until it got to about 1/2 way. Turned the fan on and didn’t see much movement. Have to figure out at some point how the sensor gets its signal to make sure it is working next.
Argh, off to play with ECU wires.
And that fixed the problem. She purrs just right now. Strange though, my 30 amp fuse blew on the cooling fan relay. Wonder what the deal is.
The ground is a main one off the shock tower.
I may have it wired slightly wrong though. If I press the A/C button this is what turns it on. However, if I turn the fan speed to any position, that also turns the rad fan on now as well.
I think I’m going to drive it next weekend.
What amperage fuse should this SPAL fan be using? I know a lot of you guys use this fan.
Also, anyone got a reference for someone who does good vinyl for the car numbers/names?
The fan current draw depends on which SPAL you have. I have a 16" 2300CFM fan and it draws a bit less than 30A.
[quote=“Foglght” post=62827]What amperage fuse should this SPAL fan be using? I know a lot of you guys use this fan.
Also, anyone got a reference for someone who does good vinyl for the car numbers/names?[/quote]
Rat racing graphics is a regional sponsor and fellow racer. Brian will take good care of you.
[quote=“Foglght” post=62781]So, I finished the spec exhaust install, welding and all. Filled with water, buttoned everyhthing up and started her up. ran good except the idle surge.[/quote]Why did you fill the exhaust with water? :blink: :laugh: