Coming back soon (well kinda)

#21

Only if it starts with JB.

#22

Well, bummed out today.

After finally finishing the fan and transponder wiring I went on to finish up the rear sway and reinforcements.

I had IE reinforcements with a larger sway (22mm) when I bought the car, so the holes were already drilled. Sold those and picked up a set of supposedly older IE bars (grey). Front bar went in ok, but I was missing hardware. Fabbed that junk up and started on the rear. Yeah, not sure who makes this rear bar, but it simply isn’t made correctly and the bend starts where the bushing needs to go. It completely sucks and I farted around with it for about 2 hours, not to mention the AKG rear reinforcements don’t line up with the IE reinforcement holes.

I gave up and just ordered a new IE bar in the 19mm variety. Just wasted a whole shit load of time and money. $279.

Fan works though. I guess that’s good. Made a new ground strap too. The OE one was lookin pretty nasty.

Also, if anyone can answer this question, I would be greatly appreciative:

There is a fuse holder that is separate from the power distribution box in the engine bay. Mine has one 15amp fuse in it. Not sure what it is for, but it is seemingly broken and needs to be zip tied. Can’t find anything in the bentley manual wiring diagrams.

#23

[quote=“Foglght” post=62512]
Also, if anyone can answer this question, I would be greatly appreciative:

There is a fuse holder that is separate from the power distribution box in the engine bay. Mine has one 15amp fuse in it. Not sure what it is for, but it is seemingly broken and needs to be zip tied. Can’t find anything in the bentley manual wiring diagrams.[/quote]

There is a double fuse holder separate from the main fuse box. I pulled mine on Old#6 so you should be ok to lose it unless you’ve got something that needs to work that I didn’t…fan, headlights, etc.

#24

That secondary fuse holder was for aftermarket additions. It gets one unswitched power lead and one switched power lead. If nothing is using either of those you can delete the fuse block.

#25

Would that make it a good spot for wiring in my cool shirt?

#26

Yep. Wire the cooler in using unswitched power and control it with a switch in the cabin. It seems simpler to wire it to switched power, but when you wind up sitting on the grid for 15 minutes or more on a hot day you will want it on unswitched power.

#27

Ok, there is a 15amp fuse wired in there. Not sure what it is for.

I’ll have to wait until the car is running again to see what it is.

Also, I have the spec exhaust now. Wasn’t it supposed to include two clamps for the section that goes to the y pipe? I got two clamps for the other sections and two exhaust hangers. I don’t particularly want to weld it.

#28

updated pics!

#29

Looks great.

#30

[quote=“Foglght” post=62519]Ok, there is a 15amp fuse wired in there. Not sure what it is for.

I’ll have to wait until the car is running again to see what it is.

Also, I have the spec exhaust now. Wasn’t it supposed to include two clamps for the section that goes to the y pipe? I got two clamps for the other sections and two exhaust hangers. I don’t particularly want to weld it.[/quote]

Car looks nice, wtg.

I had a muffler shop install my exhaust on Old#6. They couldn’t get the clamps to seal the tubes well so they ended up welding it all together. In order to drop my exhaust I have to unfasten it at the downtubes which isn’t very convenient.

#31

[quote=“Foglght” post=62519]Ok, there is a 15amp fuse wired in there. Not sure what it is for.

I’ll have to wait until the car is running again to see what it is.

Also, I have the spec exhaust now. Wasn’t it supposed to include two clamps for the section that goes to the y pipe? I got two clamps for the other sections and two exhaust hangers. I don’t particularly want to weld it.[/quote]
Does that fuse have a wire on both sides? If it only has a wire on one side it isn’t being used. If there is a wire on the other side, trace it and see what it powers.

Seems like I’ve seen a picture of the latest of Paul’s exhausts that had a flange after the two-into-one collector. That suggests that the collector is meant to be welded to the down tubes. That seems a bit problematical to me as the down tubes are stainless and the collector is mild steel. But then as long as it stays in place I guess it doesn’t matter and it being a race car minor leaks are not anything to be concerned about.

#32

[quote=“Ranger” post=62528][quote=“Foglght” post=62519]Ok, there is a 15amp fuse wired in there. Not sure what it is for.

I’ll have to wait until the car is running again to see what it is.

Also, I have the spec exhaust now. Wasn’t it supposed to include two clamps for the section that goes to the y pipe? I got two clamps for the other sections and two exhaust hangers. I don’t particularly want to weld it.[/quote]

Car looks nice, wtg.

I had a muffler shop install my exhaust on Old#6. They couldn’t get the clamps to seal the tubes well so they ended up welding it all together. In order to drop my exhaust I have to unfasten it at the downtubes which isn’t very convenient.[/quote]

Yeah, but did you get clamps for the y-pipe with your paul poore “kit?”

Also, intalling the hans device tether pieces to my helmet was an enormous pain in the ass.

Wheel studs are in, all ss brake lines are on and system bled. Installed new front sway links.

This thing may start back up soon.

Largest concern at the moment is the gas that’s been sittin in the tank for over a year.

#33

I think I still have the clamps that Paul sent me for mine. I ended up welding it to the downpipe. I can mail them to you if you want.

#34

One wire is black and one is red. I didn’t actually trace where they go but I assumed it was a hot and a ground not a hot and a switched power although ground are brown everywhere else in the car. I actually thought it maybe it was for cranking the engine over for mechanics or something. I wouldn’t string wires through the firewall to get to that. I would find the biggest green or red spider you can and wire it into that. Red is always hot and green is switched in 99 to 100% of the wiring in the car. You could run the blower to the positive power block or since your in need of a real killswitch anyway to run it to that if it’s closer. After two of the lead sidepost terminals I was using to connect to my killswitch have broken off I’ve decided to relocate it to the passenger side of the cage instead of the setup I had before which was located between the positive block and the firewall grommet in the engine bay. I had a bicycle cable with a tee handle running through the dash to the switch.

I think those grey bars may be suspension techniques which come with absolutely garbage hardware, links and reinforcements. The PO maybe added some IE stuff after the ST stuff broke. I autoxed with ST bars for a year in 2003 until everything broke and I replaced it with IE stuff. I paid 290 for the ST set. When IE came out with their set for 440 ST raised their price to 350 but it didn’t change. I should call TMS and ask why they still sell that crap.

Heres what I did to eliminate the sharp steel inner door panels when using NASCAR bars. Not a good pic. I should get one of just the door. Anyway its three trapezoidal shaped pieces of .040 aluminum gently persuaded with a large hammer wrapped in cloth and pop riveted in place.
[attachment=1747]181.JPG[/attachment]

#35

Turbo,
Just installed the STs from TMS myself. What broke? What do I need to look out for?

#36

If they are the same bars I have, the rear bar is going to be an enormous pain in the ass to install, if not impossible due to the bend of the bar starting right where the bushing needs to go. Not sure about the hardware. Never got that far aside from the bushings and bar itself. It would not work with the AKG reinforcements.

Also, I had a set of IE larger bars before with holes already drilled, where the AKG reinforcements use a slightly different position for the holes. I slotted then with an end mill, but even then it just wasn’t going to work.

I somewhat think $280 for a rear bar is ridiculous, but whatever.

#37

Turbo,
Just installed the STs from TMS myself. What broke? What do I need to look out for?[/quote]

The links rusted, seized up and broke off. The factory rear mounts broke off. TMS sells an a hardware upgrade kit for them for an extra 90+ which puts you right at the cost of the IE bars which come with all that good stuff in the first place. I have the billet rear mounts from IE on both cars now. I’ve been using IE links and mounts with my ST bar since 2005.

#38

Bought the STs as part of the TMS SE30 suspension package so it sounds like I may be okay. I used the TMS bolt in trunk reinforcements and the links at least appear okay. They’re basically Heim joints connected by threaded rod with jam nuts. Still need to weld the swing arm reinforcement tabs in.

#39

Are the swing arm reinforcements actually needed?

I was looking at them the other day and didn’t think they looked particularly feeble.

#40

[quote=“Foglght” post=62596]Are the swing arm reinforcements actually needed?

I was looking at them the other day and didn’t think they looked particularly feeble.[/quote]
The may not look feeble, but they will bend if you don’t reinforce them when using a 19mm rear sway.