Cage

#1

Hi Everyone,

Thanks in advance for all your help!

I am about to send my car off to get a cage put in and I’m compiling the data to give the fabricator. I have the CCR and rule book, but it doesn’t seem like very much info. He has never done a spec e30 cage, but does a lot of other racing fabrication on stock cars and drives himself.

I will supply him with my seat and I intend to ask him to fab in mounts for a second seat and belts.

He has all the tools to do the door panels too, so I’m going to ask him to do those too.

experienced experts HELP!

What do you wish you would have done differently or told your cage fabricator.

Thank you!!!

#2

Can’t take it to a guy that knows SpecE30 or at least knows NASA?

#3

I wish I would have told him not to cut the part of my dash right above the steering column under the oe instrument cluster. I guess he thought it was a good idea and didn’t bother asking me about it. It holds a lot of tension and without it your entire dash will sag enough that you won’t be able to install your oe cluster.

#4

Yes, I definately could use a spec e30 experienced fabricator and am willing to go that route.

I am getting a friend discount and I decided it was time to pull the trigger after dragging my feet on the build.

Can anyone recommend an experienced cage fabricator in the Los Angeles/Southern California. The closer the better, I read you should visit a few times so the cage fits you well.

I have found some local shops but non have built a cage for spec e30. From what I’ve read there were a few in Norcal and Arizona if I remember correctly. Mine would be done in Arizona so I am willing to drive a little ways.

Thanks

#5

The dash bar if you have one should be out the way of the instrument cluster. Not one of my issues but it was in a post a few days ago.

#6

Thank you this is great he is going to read this thread. I would really like to stick with my fabricator friend. I just want to make sure he is equipped with all the rules.

Thank you

#7

If you want a good cage/race car builder take it to Jim Pierce. www.advanceoffroad.com His shop is in Torrance. He did the cage in my SE30 and at least one other I know of. The fit to the body of the car is as close as you can get. He knows NASA rules. If you want to save money do as much prep as you can yourself… take dash out, all interior out, remove sunroof cassette. All these things take time and a builder will charge you.

#8

what is the accepted best place to mount the rear downtubes that pass through the bulkhead?

#9

If you have the rear swaybar reinforcements I think Its where the bolts go through. My cage ends in the cabin so I’m not sure.

#10

Is there a good reason to end it in the cabin as opposed to passing tubes through the bulkhead?

#11

Long time preferred location for rear down tubes is where the rear springs meet the body. If you are smart, you make your base plate go on the floor of the trunk and up the side of the shock tower. Then run your tube beside the shock tower to the floor and weld to floor and along side of shock tower.

#12

Do you have any pictures of this? (If you don’t want to share I understand)

#13

I can do your cage. Have done at least 8 so far between the NorCal regbion and here in Danville, VA. Basic cage starts at $1800 and goes up according to what you want. I’ve been a NASA member since 1995 and was an instructor for 5 years. I also have a chassis dyno in the shop if you want to do tuning.
Mark Welch
444 Wilson Street
Danville, VA 24541

434-770-2645

www.bmwracedyno.com

#14

I’ll look and see if I can find any pictures or if I can get to my car to take a picture.

#15

I just picked the cheapest, closest cage builder who’s done se30s and let him do it how he wanted. I actually didn’t know it was legal to run tubes in the trunk at the time. I went to Chris schimmel “Competition Cages” in hillsborough, NC. Cost me 18 something including removing the sunroof cassette, a dash bar, and nascar door bars almost tight up to the outer door skin on the driver’s side. He also put in the window net included in that price. I think I posted pictures on this forum somewhere.

Get your racing seat mounted where you want it and take your window and right side net with to the cage builder so they can weld that stuff where it needs to go instead of guessing how what you buy is going to mount. If your going to lower your steering column you should do that also before you get the cage put in. If the cage builder is far away ask about leaving the trailer there while it’s being built. I made the assumption I could leave it but his yard is to small, so he has to arrange it with a neighbor.

#16

Did you ever get a chance to find pictures of your cage?

#17

simpler build, lower cost, likely as safe as going to the trunk floor.

#18

http://www.spece30.com/forum/16-general-discussion/52815-2011-rules?limit=10&start=50

Heres some pics of questionable legality. I believe there is a serves no other purpose rule about cages.

#19

Here you go. I unloaded the car from the trailer on Friday and drained the water for winter. Sorry it took so long
[attachment=1647]IMG_0903.JPG[/attachment]

#20

[quote=“ilateapex” post=60670]Here you go. I unloaded the car from the trailer on Friday and drained the water for winter. Sorry it took so long
[attachment=1647]IMG_0903.JPG[/attachment][/quote]

Thank you very much for the help!

What is the silver plate with two bolts in it next to the mounting plate?