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I have ducts in the lower valence, just need the hose and the mounting plates. It seems there are two temp ranges for the hose. Has anyone had bad luck with the a hose rated to 300Fish? It seems plates are available from the standard outlets, but damn they are pricey. I may just attempt to make my own…
Tower, from watching both of our videos, it appears we had similar problems with our brakes…
I’ve gone thru a couple backing plate designs. My homebrew system worked pretty well. That’s in an old thread here. My current ones are from BW.
Do the open or closed plates worker better? Why did you ditch the homebrew plates?[/quote]
Explain “open” and “closed”.
My homebrew system, with it’s Chef-boy-R-dee cans did a good job of pointing the air flow right at the brake rotor inlet. That was a better solution than my first commercial backing plates, because they didn’t point the air flow well. A year or two later Chuck Baader showed me the BW design and I could see that not only did they put the air in the right place, but they also sealed off the rest of the inlet. By sealing off the rotor inlet high pressure air from the front of the car is forced to go thru the rotor instead of being pissed away inefficiently.
Open = flat plate that points air at the rotor
Closed = a plate that wraps around the rotor in some fashion to control where the air goes
It sounds like the BW design is closed…
[quote=“FishMan” post=55413]Open = flat plate that points air at the rotor
Closed = a plate that wraps around the rotor in some fashion to control where the air goes
It sounds like the BW design is closed…[/quote]
All else being equal, “closed” would be the better design. Ideally high pressure air is brought to the rotor inlet and then is forced to go thru the rotor inlet. If the high pressure air coming out of the hose is given an opportunity to avoid the rotor inlet, then there’ll be less air flow going thru the rotor.
[quote=“Ranger” post=55419][quote=“FishMan” post=55413]Open = flat plate that points air at the rotor
Closed = a plate that wraps around the rotor in some fashion to control where the air goes
It sounds like the BW design is closed…[/quote]
All else being equal, “closed” would be the better design. Ideally high pressure air is brought to the rotor inlet and then is forced to go thru the rotor inlet. If the high pressure air coming out of the hose is given an opportunity to avoid the rotor inlet, then there’ll be less air flow going thru the rotor.[/quote]
It sounds like I should go with the BW or Turner setup then…
Has anyone tried the TC Motorsports brake duct plates? They look very similar to the Turner setup at a much better price point…
[quote=“Steve D” post=55395]Fish -
I thinks lot of us got the backing plates, ducts and the rest of the hardware from Chuck during the Factory 3 days. Now that’s kaput, so I don’t know the best source.[/quote]I turned over my source for brake cooling to Harrison Motorsports in Atlanta. www.harrisonmotorsports.com A good guy, you should look him up.
Thanks Chuck! From their website pics, it looks like HMS sells the “open” style duct plates. BW and TMS plates have a lip around the edge and a nozzle opposite of the duct connect that appears to focus the air. Is there an advantage to either style?
Well HMS sells what I used to have made, so don’t expect too much objectivity :laugh:
My view: The point of the ducting and plates is to get air to the center, where the internal cooling vanes/rotors are located. Trying to worry about catching air along the outer perimeter of the rotor seems pointless by comparison.
just my 2 cents…
I made home-made ducts for my e36 m3 after i started getting fade. bought some 2 1/2 alum tube (ebay), 350 degree flex hose (pegasus) and some alum 1x1/8 strap from the hdwe store. cost me under 50.00 total. i directed the air flow to the center of the rotors and fade was gone.
http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii248/NASA144/My%2095%20M3%20Build/HM%20Brake%20Ducts/
being creative in design, effectivness and budget is true to the spirit of this class, right?
Easy and cheap is the spirit. You nailed the cheap part, but buying some prefabbed might better nail the easy part.
Just a reminder. The rubber hose used for venting exhaust out of shops makes for good brake duct hose. Much more rugged then the typical flex hose used. Search Granger or McMaster-Carr.
Michael
How much duct hose am I going to need? Having done no measuring, I am guessing one 10ft section may not be enough to do both sides.
What say ye?
[quote=“DaveCN” post=61680]How much duct hose am I going to need? Having done no measuring, I am guessing one 10ft section may not be enough to do both sides.
What say ye?[/quote]
I’d get 12’ just to be sure. 10’ would probably be enough, but it would be a bummer if you decided that you just had to have 4 more inches.
Dave, I thought you were selling out? Hope not! I used exhaust hose like used in garages to hook to the car and run outside. It works great and is not too expensive. It is much more durable then the standard stuff used. I also have a PVC 90* stuck into the factory duct opening and spray foamed/screwed in place. The 90* saves quite a bit of hose and room so 10’ may be enough.
Yeah, I decided to not let go of the Rat.
I’ve not ruled out racing in 2012, but the budget with one in college, and two in highschool may overrule that. 
Here is a link to what I run on my PRO3 car.
They keep the air on the rotor longer than the open ones.
