Anyone want to give any insights into their alignment numbers and setup. Cars finally gonna be track ready today. I plan to run mostly at VIR, Road Atlanta, CMP, and possibly Roebling.


The fb page would be a better place for this kind of question. The forum is mostly a repository for technical content that people might want to see months and years from now.

You will find that 99.9% of the racers are happy to share everything short of their women-folk, or in a few cases, men-folk, with you. Here’s my alignment settings. Most folks are pretty close to mine, but there’s a few outliers. In racing, there is no such thing as consensus. Lots of strong opinions, but not a lot of agreement.

Toe neutral all around.

Front is -3.5 to -4.
Rear is -2.5.

I’m not very exacting about this. If it’s in the ballpark, I’m good with it. I do my own toe and alignment. I use a laser level to set toe and a digital angle gauge to set camber. It’s really easy to do your own alignment and it’s nice to have confidence that your alignment is today what you set it to 6 months ago.

My method for using the laser level to check toe is here in the forum somewhere. Basically you just shoot a laser beam from the front tires rearward past the rear tires, and then do the opposite from the rear shooting the beam forward. The first step is a little trickier because you have first get your front wheels pointing in the same direction, but a little trial and error will get it done.

Note that our front is a couple mm wider than our rear.

Because the distance between wheels, F-R, is about 6x the diameter of a wheel, the toe measurement, as the laser passes the other wheel, is exaggerated by 6. That is to say, if you are checking rear toe by shooting a beam forward, a 1mm rear toe problem is indicated by a 6mm “miss” at the distant front wheel. That 6x exaggeration allows you to set toe very precisely. With some practice you can check your toe at all 4 corners in prob 2min.

For setting camber you have to first get the car on a level surface. ID how “not flat” your surface is with your digital level and some cleverness. Then use thin boards to make the surface level side to side. Don’t worry about being perfectly level front to rear.

Setting rear toe and camber is painful. There’s a number of kits out there and discussions re. how to mod them.


I completely agree with Ranger on this one.