Zero Oil Pressure?



Just installed the IJ scraper, IE baffle, and a VDO OP gauge using an oil distribution block.

Finally got around to starting the car and both the OP idiot light and the VDO OP gauge are reading zero (or you are an idiot in the case of the dash). I let it run for about 20 seconds before turning it off, tried 2-3 more short bursts of running before I got scared.

Question is, does it take a while to build oil pressure back up after having the bottom of the engine off for a while? If not, what could I have screwed up or what should I check?


Did u put oil in it? :wink:

Take off the bearing cover that is on top of the oil pump (drivers side under the thermostat behind the alternator. Looks like a metal plate bolted over a disc. Unbolt metal plate, cover is underneath). You will have to work it out to get it off. Locking pliers work well. Pull out the gear you see on top (looks like a toy spinning top). Take a 6mm (I think) socket and TAPE IT WELL to an extension then attach to a drill. Put the socket on the oil pump stick connection piece in the open hole and turn the drill on the low setting. Watch the gauge. You should see pressure start to build and begin to feel resistance in the drill. If not, report back.


Haha yes, always good to check the easiest thing first.

I’ll try giving this trick a shot, the last thing I want to do is remove all the stuff I just put back on.


Brian’s approach is a good one.

The plate over the oil pump gear can be hard to get off. I’ve had some success with torching the block around the cap, then putting ice cubes in the cap. Give it like 60secs then work the cap around with channel locks. Once you get the cap to turn a bit to and fro, you’re almost there. The cap is not threaded, it’s just a tight fit.

Once oil starts moving, you’ll see it squirt on to your socket.

Did you remove the oil pump as part of the R/R of the pan?


I just gave it a quick try and it wouldn’t budge, I’ll break out the torch. It’s this right? About 1.5in in diameter?

Ranger - Yes I did remove the oil pump and cleaned the screen. I was under the impression I put it back together correctly…


Keep working at it before u light fires. There is a rubber o-ring underneath that you don’t want to melt so be careful not to over heat it if you take a torch it. It’s is tough but it will come out.


Yes, that’s it. Get it to turn to and fro a bit. Once you get it turning, it will come out with a bit more fighting.

Brian’s right re. the rubber rings. You don’t want to get the block super hot, you just want to make a nice contrast between the warm block and iced cap.


Reporting back in -

I was able to get the cap off, 2 channel locks made it much easier.

Got a drill on it, spun it a bit, then got some resistance and oil starting coming up over the bit. I’m assuming this is good!?

So does this mean I should be good to go and it just took a while for the pump to get oil pressure built back up?

Nobody else is home right now so I can’t ask someone to watch the OP gauge, but that’ll be my next step.


I’m impatient so I taped my phone to my cruise control and took a video, here are the results:


That is odd. I haven’t seen the OP spike rapidly like that, much less go to off the gauge. Did u have the drill on high or low speed?


That’s what happens when the gauge is wired wrong! BUT the idiot light also went off. Fixed the VDO gauge and now it’s reading 20PSI at idle with the engine water temp at about 160ish.

So spinning with the drill must’ve primed it?


Ah, so the problem was between the seat and the steering wheel. :slight_smile:

Yes that is how you prime it. You only really need to do that though when you bone dry the engine by opening it up or if you’re putting in a new engine. A regular old old change doesn’t require that.


Haha only partially my fault, the OP idiot light was still on before, so I felt confident something wasn’t right. I had the entire bottom off including the oil pump for about a week, so it had plenty of time to drain.


So… as a continuation, I’d like a few more bits of advice from the experts.

I’ve never had, or never noticed the noise coming from the engine. It could be that I’ve just never noticed the engine noise with my OEM mounts, but now that I’ve switched to AKG’s it’s more evident?

Anyway I took a few videos, does this sound like valve train noise, or could this possible be the scraper? I thought I clearanced it pretty well, used a paper clip to check all the tolerances…

You can hear it the best at about 25 seconds
Engine noise

Close up of the valve cover
Valve Cover


Everything sounds normal to me.


Sorry forgot to respond too earlier. Sounds like a valve is out of adjustment.


Valves need adjusting. .006 on intake, .008 on exhaust, cold.


Thanks, I’ll give it a shot!


Have u ever done it?


No, I’ve watched a few videos and read a few DIY’s. Any tips?