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If you have the non-weld in type you’ll want to lift the rear wheels and try to move the trailing arm.I found the slop in mine when pushing/pulling looking for rear bearing play.
If, like mine and Chuck Taylor’s, you find 1/8" slop and monvement, then it is time to go to the weld-in adjustment. Ireland no longer offers their kit (something about a new-and-improved product to be released) so I found the folks at AKG have the kit.
Good welding and dropping of the rear subframe to ya’.
RP
There is a thread on the new IE adjusters at http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=230120
I really like that design, although I would use the saw tooth only on the bolt side. Chuck
Thanks for the link, Jim. Chuck, I agree, thanks. Do you know, can we purchase the Irelands yet?
RP
Hmmm… has anyone installed these new ones yet?
I still don’t have adjustable RTABs, but I think I could maybe wrap my mind around these new ones… Bitsy needs her rear end optimized.
Could you not just use it on the nut side? This would eliminate trying to get the wrench in there. I would think that that would make the whole process much easier. I would also think that if you use both sides, and I see no reason not to yet, you need to have them held in place with the bolt and nut adjuster so that the groves are lined up.
Thanks for the link, Steve.
They were not available 4 weeks ago, but I ordered a set today.
I’ve already got some old-design stuff in hand, so I’ll use the swoopy Ireland stuff on the outside/important toe adjustment.
RP
[quote=“Patton” post=62064]Thanks for the link, Steve.
They were not available 4 weeks ago, but I ordered a set today.
I’ve already got some old-design stuff in hand, so I’ll use the swoopy Ireland stuff on the outside/important toe adjustment.[/quote]
FWIW: My jackscrew locks for the outboard (Toe) adjusters have made it through a 2 day and three day race weekend with no change in toe.
My theory is that the bushing imparts torque the bolt, which eventually causes the nut to loosen. Unless you weld the plate to the bolt head, the new spiffy adjusters could have the same problem. My jackscrew locks are intended to keep the bolt from turning, and it appears (so far) that they do.
Waking this thread up again after almost two years and wondering what everyone thinks about their weld in Camber/toe adjustments kits after all that time? I see both Bimmerworld and AKG still offer the kits. Are they working? Do they stay put? Are they easy/difficult to adjust? Any major pros/cons between the two offerings?
I have the IE original design (before they added the serrations) and have almost two seasons on them. They have stayed pretty consistent.
Side note on adjusting, I found it so hard to fit a ground-down wrench into the outboard fitting, that what I do is remove the endplate and the 22mm nut, lower the side I want to adjust a few inches, make the change (guessing how much as always) then pull it back up with the 22mm nut, rinse and repeat. A little bit more work, but worth it to me to be able to get a real wrench, with real torque, on the outboard nuts.
[quote=“ctbimmer” post=73837]I have the IE original design (before they added the serrations) and have almost two seasons on them. They have stayed pretty consistent.
Side note on adjusting, I found it so hard to fit a ground-down wrench into the outboard fitting, that what I do is remove the endplate and the 22mm nut, lower the side I want to adjust a few inches, make the change (guessing how much as always) then pull it back up with the 22mm nut, rinse and repeat. A little bit more work, but worth it to me to be able to get a real wrench, with real torque, on the outboard nuts.[/quote]
After installing, uninstalling, re-installing several times, in order to figure out which was the best way to set up the toe adjuster bolts, I ended up leaving the nuts on the inboard side with the “heads” of the adjuster bolts on the outside. This makes it easy to get to the nut, but it can be a little tricky to get the adjuster when it’s oriented “just so”. I cut down a couple different thin wrenches that provide different angles, and I also “clearances” my subframe bushings a bit to provide more room to work.
My solution to the “toe won’t stay put” was to imagineer a widget that holds the cam adjuster in place. Modifications of the weld-on kits are discussed in another old thread. There is no one solution that has worked perfectly.