window switches

#1

Just wondering what others have done with them? Did you build a panel to mount them in?

Since ‘window glass and mechanisms, heating and cooling system interior ducts, and sun visors, may be removed’, I, (hoping switches fall under ‘mechanism’) wanting something neat & tidy, was thinking about using momentary contact toggle switches and mounting them in my radio blank. My trouble has been identifying the right toggles - mcmaster has way too many options. Based on my understanding of the switches from the Bentley - I need a two circuit, 4 terminal switch. Yes/No?

thanks,
krista

Post edited by: kristap, at: 2006/03/09 20:22

Post edited by: kristap, at: 2006/03/09 20:24

#2

I just kept my console with shift boot in place. One day I might install them in the dash where the blank switch covers are.

#3

kristap wrote:

[quote]Just wondering what others have done with them? Did you build a panel to mount them in?

Since ‘window glass and mechanisms, heating and cooling system interior ducts, and sun visors, may be removed’, I, (hoping switches fall under ‘mechanism’) wanting something neat & tidy, was thinking about using momentary contact toggle switches and mounting them in my radio blank. My trouble has been identifying the right toggles - mcmaster has way too many options. Based on my understanding of the switches from the Bentley - I need a two circuit, 4 terminal switch. Yes/No?

thanks,
krista

Post edited by: kristap, at: 2006/03/09 20:22<br><br>Post edited by: kristap, at: 2006/03/09 20:24[/quote]

'Sounds like a lot of trouble for something that’s already been done fairly well by the factory…

I left mine alone.

An interesting idea though.

Carter

#4

This is a pretty clean install:

http://www.e30tech.com/pictures/mtriple/016.jpg

Post edited by: 155mph, at: 2006/03/09 22:12

#5

I left my shift console in place, and moved the check panel to the sunglasses holder. The radio location is the future home of a traqmate display and an ABS kill switch.

#6

Thanks for the input. Really thought that someone/somewhere would have done this before me but I’ll post up when I get it done. With my console long gone, the switches are just hanging loose on the end of the wires, so have to do something with 'em.

155mph - thanks for the picture. Clean and simple, very nice. Yours?

#7

I wish!

Mine will be much more &quot;ninjaneered&quot;

:wink:

#8

JP, that was a sweet idea in the picture. This afternoon I just finished rigging my switches up that way. Of course, I don’t have the cool carbon fiber look, but the switches fit reasonably well (they don’t quite push in all the way) and look a hell of a lot better than they did dangling by my gear selector! I’m finding that wire and switch management is the single most time-consuming thing so far with a clean build. Of course, I haven’t attempted the timing belt replacement yet. :wink:

Sasha

#9

Timing belt is not that hard, just time consuming. Do your self a favor and take out the radiator and if you can get some help , taking off the hood helps too. Make sure you replace the cam seal, and waterpump at the same time, as well as the tensioner. You don’t want to have to duplicate labor later.
Bentley Manual is your friend!

#10

Thanks for the advice–there’s also a complete article on this in the most recent Roundel that was helpful to me since I’ve never attempted it. The author removed the radiator, but no mention of taking the hood off. I have records from the seller, and in March of '02 and about 7,000 miles ago he did the following:

Replace timing belt
Replace timing belt tensioner
Replace water pump
Replace alternator belt
Replace P/S belt
Replace A/C belt
Upgrade head bolts
Replace distributor and rotor (Bosch)
Replace crankcase ventilation hose
Replace valve cover gasket + filler plugs
Replace O2 sensor
Flush radiator coolant
Adjust valves

Therefore I was going to wait on the water pump, since to my knowledge these don’t break down with time like the belts do. Am I just being cheap?

Sasha

#11

4 years and only 7000 miles?
Anyway the water pump replace is all the same labor as the timing belt so for the extra 60.00 for a new pump it saves all the labor to go back in incase the pump fails after you do the belt. Sounds like you are in good shape for a while considering that list. your pump should be good.

#12

Ex36 wrote:

[quote]Thanks for the advice–there’s also a complete article on this in the most recent Roundel that was helpful to me since I’ve never attempted it. The author removed the radiator, but no mention of taking the hood off. I have records from the seller, and in March of '02 and about 7,000 miles ago he did the following:

…

Therefore I was going to wait on the water pump, since to my knowledge these don’t break down with time like the belts do. Am I just being cheap?

Sasha[/quote]

Removing the hood is optional. It just allows you to get a better look at things from the front of the car. It also makes some of the wrenching a bit easier. But, once you’ve had some experience doing the t-belt, water pump, and pulley, it’s easy enough to do it with the hood still there. If you delete the fan clutch, I think that’s what makes the whole job a lot easier.

Water pump is $40, might as well just change it.

#13

Just 7,000 in 4 years because this car was a dentist’s track car/occasional driver (and he had a 2-mile commute, round trip). Now he’s got an e36 M3; we swapped places :slight_smile: . Thanks for the input on the water pump.

Sasha

#14

Kristap, what you want to do is wire a &quot;polarity reversal&quot; switch, which is made from a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch. And since you want the current flow to usually be off, you want a momentary switch.

On this page you’ll find a wiring diagram:
http://www.1728.com/project2.htm

I’d go with something like this.

Post edited by: wludavid, at: 2006/03/20 12:11

#15

wludavid wrote:

[quote]Kristap, what you want to do is wire a &quot;polarity reversal&quot; switch, which is made from a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch. And since you want the current flow to usually be off, you want a momentary switch.

On this page you’ll find a wiring diagram:
http://www.1728.com/project2.htm

I’d go with something like this.<br><br>Post edited by: wludavid, at: 2006/03/20 12:11[/quote]

Thank you!!!