Which of you SOB's took my CAB at CMP?

#1

My right control arm bushing is gone. Not worn. Gone. How about that shit? Wow. The right lollypop is just…empty.

#2

Pics or never happened :wink: :smiley:

#3

I guess that explains the metal clunking sound?

#4

[quote=“juliancates” post=66136]I guess that explains the metal clunking sound?[/quote]It must. I’d a sworn the sound was from the center rear or right rear, but it can’t be a coincidence. And it wasn’t just a sound I could really feel the bang/clunk each time it happened.

Pics of an empty lollypop? Naah, nothing interesting about that. I’ll go ahead and replace both sides tho.

Since my best lap of the weekend was my last lap of the weekend, that means I did it w/o a CAB. Cool .

#5

Does that mean it was pressed in from the wrong side? Normally they can only come out one way, and the control arm itself prevents that from happening.

#6

I think it just shreded. Looking at the cab that’s still intact, the only way I can imagine how the right cab could have come out of the lollypop is if it shreded completely.

You’d think I’d a been able to sense the squirrely handling. What will next go missing and I be completely unaware, a wheel?

#7

What the heck kind of CAB were you running? I don’t see anyway my AKG 75Ds could ever come out especially with the set screws I added.

#8

[quote=“King Tut” post=66145]What the heck kind of CAB were you running? I don’t see anyway my AKG 75Ds could ever come out especially with the set screws I added.[/quote]The CABS were installed by the PO and I don’t recognize the type. I have spares tho and I’m going to go by HF and get a small press so I can put the CABS into the lollypops myself.

I’ve heard that installing CABs into the lollypops and then the control arms into the CABs can be hard. What are the tricks?

Speaking of tricks, last night I found my brake fluid leak…the clutch slave. So I swapped in a spare and for the first time ever was able to do a clutch bleed efficiently in a couple minutes. The other 3x I did a clutch bleed each time it took 2 days and 2 cans of fluid. It’s all in knowing the tricks.

#9

I wouldn’t say installing a CAB is all that hard, and you probably don’t really need a press. If you are using AKG or similar, soap up the outer ring, get it aligned square. As previously mentioned, the bushing should be pressed in from the front end of the car, so that it can’t walk backwards out of the lollypop.

Make sure you make the proper race-car noises as you hold the piece under the car to figure out the orientation. The purpose of the offset hole is to gain caster. “Be” the control arm as you orient the offset hole to the outside of the car so as to pivot the lower end of the strut forward.

Line it up and tap it in with a block of wood if you don’t go for the press. Drill a hole on the opposite side from the bushing hole and put a metal screw through the lollypop to keep the bushing from rotating.

A bit more soap may be in order for the inside of the bushing to get it to slide onto the end of the control arm, but after you get it started you should be able to drive it on with a large socket and medium hammer.

#10

I think I used anti-seize liberally on the CAB and the lollipop and was able to get it in by hand or with a few whacks of a mallet. Definitely didn’t need a press.

#11

Usually quite easy, sometimes it’s difficult to get the little double-holes lined up on the lollipop once it’s on the control arm. I recommend a screw driver in 1 hole, force it to line up, and then put a bolt in the other hole.

#12

New cabs are in. HF press made putting the cabs into the lollypops easy enough. Had to drill holes in the lollypops tho for the screws that keep the cabs from rotating.

I learned that checking cab orientation before pressing it into a lollypop once isn’t enough. Checking once gets you 50% success. Having another one in the attic gets you to 100%.

I was surprised to find that the lollypop bolts into the frame at only 30ftlbs. I would have thought it was twice that. Threads in frame must be weak. Did 35ftlbs.

#13

I have the ie delrin fcabs. Definitely no chance of disintegration. The missing fcab had to be in backwards. The first thing that went wrong with my 325is in 2001 was a disintegrated fcab. It was a stock fcab and the steel rings were still there. Upgraded to concentric urethane units from bav auto. There was no mistaking the hard clunking during braking, cornering and acceleration.

I torque my lolipops until they are tight. Must be near 150 ft/lbs. I wonder what the procedure is when the threads in the frame are totally trashed.

#14

Re. missing cab in backwards. Nope.

The PO’s cabs were unusual. Imagine an fcab in 2 pieces. The first piece is a donut shaped piece of hard rubber-like stuff with a center hole that is much bigger than the control arm shaft…call it a 4cm dia. hole. And it’s centered, not offset. This piece has a plastic flange on the back of the lollypop.

Then consider a 2nd piece of donut shaped rubber. Inside hole right for the control arm and outside hole 4cm so it fits into the piece above. It has a big flange on it so the control arm would put pressure on the lollypop, but wouldn’t force the 1st part above out.

Note that this allows free rotation of inside rubber piece with offset hole, inside of the outside rubber piece.

Now it gets more complicated. That inside rubber piece actually covers about 4" of control arm shaft because the rubber piece is mushroom shaped. The narrow part of the rubber piece is the 4cm and the fat piece climbs right up the control arm.

Here’s a pic of the mushroom piece next to a lollypop with conventional cab. I’ve looked around but I can’t find anyone selling anything similar to this.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/RangerGress/2012-05-26_22-26-19_147.jpg

#15

[quote=“Ranger” post=66161]

Here’s a pic of the mushroom piece next to a lollypop with conventional cab. I’ve looked around but I can’t find anyone selling anything similar to this.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr17/RangerGress/2012-05-26_22-26-19_147.jpg[/quote]

Those look like Powerflex bushings.

http://www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/Front+Lower+Wishbone+Rear+Bush+Eccentric/1108.html

#16

Good find, that’s them.

#17

Bimmerworld sells the powerflex bushing, with or without pre-pressing it into a stock lollipop for you. They are what I run and have been quite happy with. The extension over the control arm forces you to install it correctly and doesn’t allow it to rotate.

#18

You remember this thread when the race comes that you hear a sudden CLANK under the car.

#19

Wouldn’t that mean that it’s in there backwards? Flanges should be facing the control arm.

Sounds like the PO didn’t follow Chuck’s advice…the race car noises are necessary to get in the right frame of mind to orient these parts correctly.

#20

Wouldn’t that mean that it’s in there backwards? Flanges should be facing the control arm.

Sounds like the PO didn’t follow Chuck’s advice…the race car noises are necessary to get in the right frame of mind to orient these parts correctly.[/quote]

This: Then consider a 2nd piece of donut shaped rubber. Inside hole right for the control arm and outside hole 4cm so it fits into the piece above. It has a big flange on it so the control arm would put pressure on the lollypop, but wouldn’t force the 1st part above out.