What to do before install engine?

#1

I am in the process of getting my ducks in a row to start this SE30 project. First I want to get a running engine in the car. I checked the one out in the car and it appears that the timing belt is gone as well as maybe a rocker. There is some carnage under the valve cover seen by looking in the oil cap.

I have two other engines in the garage. One came with the car and is "supposed" to be a good running engine out of a 110K mile car. the other is from one of my parts cars and not sure at all the condition of it. I plan on mounting the engine to the engine stand and after makeing sure the timing belt is not broke I plan on cranking it with a battery and checking compression (dry and wet). If all OK I then plan to do a leak down test.

Here are a few questions

  1. Are all M20’s equal? Assuming a 2.5 i engine. My parts car is a '90 and I am not sure of the year of the spare engine that came with my car.

  2. Besides timing belt, water pump and the obvious, what should be replaced that is easier to do with the engine out? I figured rear main and add crank scraper. Are there any hard to reach sensors or such that should at least be tested? I have two other engines to steel parts from in something like that is needed.

  3. Any thing I am missing before installing a junk yard motor in a race car?

Thanks,

Michael O.

#2

Yo

We just finished the e to i swap on the bronze car…I pulled a motor out of a wreck that I was unable to test…I just made sure the top of the motor was not gunked up, that gives you a good idea if the previous owner changed the oil, make sure the spark plugs all look about the same and that none of the exhast ports are wet with oil. Timing belt, tensioner, water pump, rear seal, valve cover gasket (can cause vacume leak!) All heater hoses. Check the throttle body to make sure it is not worn out, they can go over center! (maybe you told me about that??)

Of course I told Travis I checked the spark plugs…and when we tried to start the car, the plugs were so bad it would not even start. We ran the car at VIR, and my ass dyno says around 145HP. Not one leak or puff of smoke, car was a 5 spd convertable that the motor came out of, female owned/driven by the looks of the drivers seat…mileage unknown.

Buy a new clutch also.

AL

#3

I’d go ahead and replace any gaskets you can get to before installing the engine. The ones that come to mind are thermostat housing gasket (the one where the housing meets the head), intake and exhaust manifold gaskets. I think there’s also a gasket at the back of the head where the coolant leaves the head.

Replace the clutch pilot bearing when you’re back there doing the rear main seal.