What items need to be inspected to race?

#1

Since a good portion of our cars will be high mileage and at least 18 years old, what parts should be inspected/replaced before putting the car on a track?

Here’s my list. Please add whatever I have missed. I’m very interested in things that could cause my early demise, not just maintenance items.

  1. Brakes - lines (steel and rubber), master cyl., calipers
  2. Wheel bearings - Repack?
  3. Control Arms - I heard that you should replace these every so often, especially if you race
  4. Timing Belt - $30 kit to save $2000 motor
  5. Fuel System - lines, tank

What other longevity or high mileage items should I be looking at?

Thanks!

#2

All the suspension bushings - rear subframe, trailing arms and control arms. Tie rods and steering rack.

#3

cozog wrote:

[quote]Since a good portion of our cars will be high mileage and at least 18 years old, what parts should be inspected/replaced before putting the car on a track?

Here’s my list. Please add whatever I have missed. I’m very interested in things that could cause my early demise, not just maintenance items.

  1. Brakes - lines (steel and rubber), master cyl., calipers
  2. Wheel bearings - Repack?
  3. Control Arms - I heard that you should replace these every so often, especially if you race
  4. Timing Belt - $30 kit to save $2000 motor
  5. Fuel System - lines, tank

What other longevity or high mileage items should I be looking at?

Thanks![/quote]rear bearings are sealed, fronts are replaced by replacing the hub.
control arms have the ball joints pressed in. Just replace the CA when the ball joints are shot.
Fuel lined from the fuel rail to the hard lines should be replaced.
replace the water pump, cam seal, T-belt and tensioner then a h20 pump every other belt job.
Adjust the valves

#4

My .02 - Don’t see a need to replace calipers, if on inspection they are not severly pitted/damaged - just rebuild. Also, don’t see need to replace fuel tank unless damaged - just drain, change fuel filter.

Drain tranny/diff - replace with fresh gear oil.

Maybe tie rods/ends.

#5

My .02 - Don’t see a need to replace calipers, if on inspection they are not severly pitted/damaged - just rebuild. Also, don’t see need to replace fuel tank unless damaged - just drain, change fuel filter.

Drain tranny/diff - replace with fresh gear oil.

Maybe tie rods/ends.

#6

nasaregistrar wrote:

[quote]replace the water pump, cam seal, T-belt and tensioner then a h20 pump every other belt job.
Adjust the valves[/quote]

What is a "cam seal"?

#7

I believe that he is refering to the o-ring on the end of the camshaft behind the cap and rotor.

#8

When replacing the timing belt/water pump, you have all of the covers off, etc. so it is a good time to replace the cam seals. There are 2 seals in an aluminum flange locating the end of the cam shaft. One is a typical pressed in oil/bearing seal and the other is an o-ring. For a good picture see http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/101-Projects-20-E30-Timing-Belt/101-Projects-20-E30-Timing-Belt.htm

#9

Contrary to older American cars, I don’t believe that re-packing your own bearings is wise. E30 genius, and overall madman Rob at Bimmerworld told me that a precise amount of grease goes into the bearings. Stick with new ones from FAG or SKF in my opinion.

-Vic
#325

#10

Good info… Thaank you all!

#11

If you don’t know the history of the car, think about replacing all the water hoses as well. They tend to go at inconvenient times.

#12

Motor Mounts

#13

87isMan wrote:

[quote]Motor Mounts[/quote]and trans mounts

#14

ctbimmer wrote:

replace all those weird shaped heater hoses, those are the ones that will bite ya. To start I would only replace the bushings that are in bad shape…just ask Travis. Check out the rear CV joints, if you have a torn boot, you have a bad joint…

Al

#15

Second those weird shaped heater hoses. I spent all day of Comp School and the next day (my first race day) chasing a water leak. It turned out to be the hose that goes from the back of the head to the firewall had a 3mm split on the underside that would only leak at speed. I only found it after ruling out every other hose by taking them off in the pits. The stress of chasing that leak took most of the fun out of my first race weekend with the car and added a huge amount of stress to comp school day (which is already stressful enough).

Steven

#16

victorhall wrote:

[quote]Contrary to older American cars, I don’t believe that re-packing your own bearings is wise. E30 genius, and overall madman Rob at Bimmerworld told me that a precise amount of grease goes into the bearings. Stick with new ones from FAG or SKF in my opinion.

-Vic
#325[/quote]
Or go with Original BMW parts and snag a 2-year warranty.