what could i be missing????

#1

so far ive installed the following to the e30
-Spec suspension kit
-Sway Bars
-strut bars front and rear
-compression check
-spec exhaust
-camber plates
-removed all interior comforts carpets, chairs, etc
-lightened up the sunroof but didnot remove it
-patched up all the rust spots inside the car with sheetmetal and bondo
-disconnected the AC belt from the engine,i thought to myself “gain HP and keep the weight”
-race rims, waiting on tires
-cage is mounted and waiting to get welded
-cross drilled brake rotors installed
-brake pads
-stainless steel brake lines

stuff still to do
-new ball bearing for right rear
-cage welding
-kill switch *need some pointers on a good one"
-short shifter
-new OEM clutch
-install race seat
-AMB transponder
-fire ext. kit

is there anything Im missing???

#2

Lose the cross drilled rotors. Are they provide is bling. Plain rotors provide greater swept area and greater thermal mass. And they are less susceptible to cracking (think of the holes in cross drilled rotors as initial cracks of large radius).

Change the diff and transmission fluid and inspect the half shaft boots for cracks or tears. Replace the motor and transmission mounts, preferably with poly mounts. Do both rear wheel bearing at the same time, when one goes the other usually isn’t far behind. And while doing that take a good look at the RTABS and subframe bushings. The RTABa almost certainly need to be replaced to get the rear wheel geometry correct.

For the kill switch you need at least a four pole switch and a six pole is best, which you can get from Bimmerworld and other sources.

You need window and right side nets.

#3

If all you’ve done to the AC unit is remove the pump’s belt, remove the rest of the AC hardware. Re. “keep the weight”. Don’t keep weight in the front.

Consider removing the power steering pump and looping the hose on the steering box.

I’m not sure what “lighten” the sunroof means, but if it’s short of removing the whole cassette, then I’d get that done before the cage goes in. Lots of things are harder when the cage is in.

Plug throttlebody coolant hose at the block and at the thermostat.

Consider if you want to have your heater operational and what this means for having a functional defroster. I think that most folks have chosen to loop the heater hose such that it goes directly from the back of the head to the tstat. If you choose to do this, you can then remove your heater and AC heat exchangers from behind the dash. This is another task that is easier before the cage is installed.

Control arm bushings, preferably offset. If you get them already pressed into lollypops you won’t have to do the hard part, which is pressing them in.

You have rain tires? If not, get some unshaved 14"ers and put them on your old rims.

Wheel studs.

#4

I’ve got a Sachs Clutch and pressure plate that I bought brand new, after changing out the tranny still had plenty of life with existing clutch, its available if interested?

#5

Random must-haves and nice-to-haves:
Longacre convex mirror to replace stock rearview
Longacre fisheye mirror with roll cage mount for left side
windage tray
fuel test port
+1 on the crossdrilled rotors
tow straps
motor mounts (help eliminate missed shifts)
brake cooling ducts (Factory3)
roll fender lips
oil pan protector (Factory3)
roll bar padding
steering quick release (depending on your size and flexibility)
zip tie relays on driver side wheel well
bolt coil mount to passenger wheel well
disable steering lock

This assumes that all belts, wires, crank sensor, hoses, etc. in the engine bay are new.

#6

alright steve Ill keep that all in mind, how do i disconnect the steering wheel lock?? whats a good neutral setup for my camber plates? im thinking i might need a tool to measure the degrees…and with tires the rims i got the e30 are 17s so i can use them and i just recieved new 15" rims should i go with shaved toyo’s or unshaven to start out with?

#7

If you have a decent amount of track time already, I’d shave the tires. If you’re under a couple dozen events you might think about leaving them unshaved. Unshaved is 1-2secs slow, but they’ll last a little longer.

If it was me, I’d shave them. I’m ok with being slow because I suck, I’m less ok with being slow because my equipment can’t support my fabulous skills.

Put the word out that you want to buy some 14" basketweaves and someone will have a pair to sell you for not much. Turn those into your full tread rain tires.

Hey Steve, tell me more about this fuel test port.

#8

Steve D wrote:

[quote]Random must-haves and nice-to-haves:
fuel test port
bolt coil mount to passenger wheel well
disable steering lock[/quote]

I would also like more information on these 3.

#9

King Tut wrote:

[quote]Steve D wrote:

[quote]Random must-haves and nice-to-haves:
fuel test port
bolt coil mount to passenger wheel well
disable steering lock[/quote]

I would also like more information on these 3.[/quote]
Oops. Looks like #1 is a leftover from my Spec Miata build sheet. It is an SCCA requirement to have a fuel test port in the line before the injectors. If you rely on testing fuel (a hypothetical in SE30 for now, I guess) from the filler neck, you leave open the possibility that someone would install an inner bladder in the fuel tank to contain the ‘real’ fuel while filling the rest of the stock tank with pump gas.

Also the test port serves as a handy way to drain the tank to get right down to minimum weight without sloshy ‘dynamic ballast’ messing up the finely tuned balance of your race car. :huh:

I need to add “test port” to my list of 2011 rules requests. :laugh:

If memory serves me correctly, the coil bracket is tack welded to the inner wheel housing. By drilling through this weld and using a bolt, the mounting is robust enough to withstand curb hopping and agricultural racing.

For the steering lock, you can go one of two ways. Take your car to OPM with a box of parts and tell them you want a race car. They might bill you for that. The other option is here:
http://spece30.com/component/option,com_kunena/Itemid,94/func,view/id,32616/catid,3/

#10

RSchwyn wrote:

From what I have seen (assuming you haven’t hogged out the top of the strut tower), as much negative camber as you can in the front. A couple degrees in the rear (or more or less depending on tire wear patterns.

For Spec use, 15 x 7 with a 13 lb minimum. If it were me, I would use full tread tires since they could act as rains during the first few weekends.

+1 on the bottlecap/basketweave recommendation. The 14" rims make for softer sidewalls, but that’s good in the rain.

#11

Hi all,
The steering wheel lock works on the inside of the stock steering wheel hub. By default when you install a quick disconnect steering wheel you disable the steering wheel lock.
Rich

#12

Mine still had the lock with the quick release hub? Is this different year to year? I had my cage guy do this as long as my car was sitting in his shop.