VIR...plus oil pressure (for Ranger)

#1

I am registered for VIR oct 9-11…the price goes up $50 at midnight…there is a 60 min race on sunday, pretty good deal for VIR. I have a new junkyard motor installed, makes 70 psi cold and 25 hot idle and it really shoots up there when you blip the throttle. Doing a valve adjust, compression test tomorrow and then the dyno…I really hope it makes 150…I bought the motor from a guy that works at a u pull it, the car came in and they were able to test run and the guy pulled it on his day off and stuck it in the garage for a spare, I was a little wary but with the number of e30’s that go thru there, i figured if they took the trouble to pull it, it must have run pretty good.

Al

#2

Al, note what OP at redline you’re getting after 30min on the track. What kind of oil?

Somewhat related. My current oil load is Valvoline VR1 20W50. Previous load was Valvoline Premium Blue 10W40. Both have a good additive package for our purposes, but I wasn’t happy with the OP I was getting with 10W40.

My oil analysis came back on the Premium Blue and it had less ZDDP (necessary for our cams) then I thought it would. I’ve not figured out why. It may be that they’ve changed the additive package since Robert’s Turbo Diesel Register analyzed it. Additive packages change surprisingly often. The only thing you can trust is analysis.

#3

Scott, was the oil the old diesel spec,CI+4; or the new spec CJ?

If the oil was CJ it will have less additive than the earily report in the magazine where we tested the CI. Regardless, the result should be the same (or close) to the CJ that was analysed in one of the later magazines.

RP,

#4

Patton wrote:

[quote]Scott, was the oil the old diesel spec,CI+4; or the new spec CJ?

If the oil was CJ it will have less additive than the earily report in the magazine where we tested the CI. Regardless, the result should be the same (or close) to the CJ that was analysed in one of the later magazines.

RP,[/quote]

I’m pretty sure that Valv Premium Plus was a CI+4. To my aggravation I seemed to have prematurely given you back the issue that had the article where 20 oils were analyzed. I thought that I’d copied that article but I hadn’t. Valv Prem Blue was one of the oils analyzed in that article. The articles that I did copy were all put on my website in the oil debate section.

My bet is that the oil additive package changed in the last year because Valvoline decided that they wanted the later CJ spec. I imagine that they made a judgement call that “latest spec” was better for marketing vs. hoping that lots of folks understood that the older spec (which allowed more ZDDP) was better for older motors.

It just occured to me that I still have the jugs. I’ll look at them tonight…while I’m fastening my damn air dam back on, and trying to figure out why my passenger window motor is suddenly inop.

#5

not to hijack, but Scott if you find something while you are “trying to figure out why my passenger window motor is suddenly inop.” please let me know.

this just happen to me too. I swapped out the switch with a known good one and still nothing, I have not bothered with more testing.

#6

Peakracer.com wrote:

[quote]not to hijack, but Scott if you find something while you are “trying to figure out why my passenger window motor is suddenly inop.” please let me know.

this just happen to me too. I swapped out the switch with a known good one and still nothing, I have not bothered with more testing.[/quote]

I’ve had to struggle thru a number of issues with the damn car this week. I was not happy to have the window suddenly fail. If I can’t figure out the problem pretty easily, I’ll pull the motor out of the door and take the SOB skeet shooting.

I’m thru screwing around.

#7

Let me know if you find out the fix. My passenger window also doesn’t work. My driver side window works so I swapped switches and both switches work for the driver side window.

#8

unbelievable, my passenger window quit working. it is stuck down.

I got plenty of motors/tracks.

Al

#9

FARTBREF wrote:

[quote]unbelievable, my passenger window quit working. it is stuck down.

I got plenty of motors/tracks.

Al[/quote]

Funny thing when it quit working I was saying how lucky I was that it broke in the up position.

Lucky something broke, I guess I was. sorry Al

#10

Ranger wrote:

[quote]Patton wrote:

[quote]Scott, was the oil the old diesel spec,CI+4; or the new spec CJ?

If the oil was CJ it will have less additive than the earily report in the magazine where we tested the CI. Regardless, the result should be the same (or close) to the CJ that was analysed in one of the later magazines.

RP,[/quote]

I’m pretty sure that Valv Premium Plus was a CI+4. To my aggravation I seemed to have prematurely given you back the issue that had the article where 20 oils were analyzed. I thought that I’d copied that article but I hadn’t. Valv Prem Blue was one of the oils analyzed in that article. The articles that I did copy were all put on my website in the oil debate section.

My bet is that the oil additive package changed in the last year because Valvoline decided that they wanted the later CJ spec. I imagine that they made a judgement call that “latest spec” was better for marketing vs. hoping that lots of folks understood that the older spec (which allowed more ZDDP) was better for older motors.

It just occured to me that I still have the jugs. I’ll look at them tonight…while I’m fastening my damn air dam back on, and trying to figure out why my passenger window motor is suddenly inop.[/quote]

CJ4. Bastards changed their additive package. I’d not have known if not for the Blackstone report. Can’t depend on anything these days.

#11

Peakracer.com wrote:

[quote]not to hijack, but Scott if you find something while you are “trying to figure out why my passenger window motor is suddenly inop.” please let me know.

this just happen to me too. I swapped out the switch with a known good one and still nothing, I have not bothered with more testing.[/quote]

I did a temp workaround by using an allen socket to raise/lower the window. There is a little plastic button on the window motor where you would put a hand crank. Remove the button to see the allen socket. A couple turns of that and the windows goes up/down smartly.

My switch seems ok, I think the motor is hosed. You can pull apart the wire connector at the motor and test to see if the switch is controlling 12V on it. And if the motor was binding on a rail or something you’d hear/see the movement. My motor doesn’t do anything but suck enough current to dim the switch light.

I have a spare motor, but replacing it kinda looks like a pita. I’m tempted to leave the dead motor in place and put in an old fashioned window crank. Apparently we can remove the electric motor, but we can’t replace it with a crank. Which is a little silly. Rule change?

#12

My passenger window went inop during my build. I do not know if the driver side was inop because I already gutted the door for NASCAR bars. It was only a blown fuse. Visual all fuses looked ok. OHM meter found the bad fuse. Make sure you have 12v to the motor.

#13

When my passenger side window stopped working, I tried to get a replacement motor. Unfortunately, there are at least two different design window regulators and the motor gear ratio are different. The one I bought was not the right one for my regulator.

They look very similar but will not work in a different setting.

So, I opened up the non-working motor, clean it, and lubed it. Then the motor started working again and worked fine afterward.

Here is the instruction on cleaning the motor.

#14

Ranger wrote:

Real race cars don’t have windows. Or if they do, they don’t roll up and down.

#15

Real racecars also shouldn’t need to keep them to meet weight!

#16

Are you saying that with a spare tire, 125 lbs of ballast and a cool suit, you can’t make minimum weight?? Door glass may be the worst way to make weight.

Other than eating like IndyJim at Golden Corral, of course.

#17

Ranger wrote:

[quote]
I have a spare motor, but replacing it kinda looks like a pita. I’m tempted to leave the dead motor in place and put in an old fashioned window crank. Apparently we can remove the electric motor, but we can’t replace it with a crank. Which is a little silly. Rule change?[/quote]

First, nobody will DQ you for having window cranks.
And, a window crank is actually shown on here as item 5 when I look up my car, so I take that as "available on US models"
http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1113&mospid=47309&btnr=51_0330&hg=51&fg=10
cheers,
bruce

#18

I believe I was reading that only either late or early models have the ability to switch to manual windows if equipped with power windows. I seem to recall my 1987 was not one of the ones that could be switched over by just adding a crank. I will pull the door panel off and check the motor out soon.