Valve adjustment values

#21

Just as an FYI, there are a few videos on YouTube of the procedure. Just search “BMW Valve adjustment” Should help with confidence in doing it yourself.

#22

jlevie wrote:

Chalk up another win for Levie.

I was so concerned with getting the valve cover torqued to the correct value and the breather hose on securely, I inadvertently left the bolts on the bracket between the valve cover and intake manifold (attaching to the little ~triangular thingy that the FPR vacuum hose attaches to) only finger tight.

Once tight, the whistling was gone and the idle is smooth.

Thanks, Jim.

#23

Checked my valves this a.m. before loading on the trailer for CMP this weekend. This was on the advise of James Posig of JMT Track Cars near VIR - he knows his stuff. I had maybe 150 miles on a freshly worked head with original cam, new rockers/eccentrics, rocker tubes and intake valves.

I had originally set the valves to what I thought was “.010”. I decided last night to employ a “go-no go” method, so in addition to the .25mm(.010" ) gauge, I checked with the .30mm(.012" ) gauge also.

My philosophy was if I couldn’t get the .30mm gauge in between the eccentric and valve, then I didn’t need to adjust. I thought the .25mm feeler gauge felt the same as when I set them. Though a snug fit, I could get the .30mm in, so I reset all to a very snug .25mm, which didn’t allow entry for the .30mm.

Like Jim, I’m using bent, single feelers.

#24

How often do you find it necessary to check and adjust the valves? My motor has 20 hours on it. I can hear the valves ticking, but not sure if that is out of the ordinary…

#25

I’d check em. At 20 hours you’ve had time for break in wear. Loose valves result in busted rocker arms.

#26

I can confirm this! I busted a rocker arm at NJMP a few weeks ago and it cost me the head too.