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I’m having a hell of a time releasing the bolt attaching the strut assembly to the control arm. Anyone know of any secret tricks, special tools, or ancient voo-doo chants that might help with this? I tried soaking in WD-40, prying with a crowbar, banging with a hammer, etc… all to no avail. And I thought this was supposed to be one of the easier steps. :sick:
Thanks,
Steve, aka the "anti-mechanic"
I did ctrl arms couple of times and never really had problems with bolts (getting the bushing on is another story), Impact gun or wrench with long enough extension should be able to do it.
Igor
Steve,
Assuming you are not going to be reusing the control arm, the pickel fork worked for me on the struc ball joint. The center one should come out with a long piece of pipe and a good rap with a hammer. As Igor noted, the bushing is another story. In contrast to Bentley manual, I put the end of the control arm in bushing and got the bolts started before fully seating the two ball joints - otherwise, it is almost impossible to get the end in the bushing.
Best of luck,
Ed
sdais wrote:
[quote]I’m having a hell of a time releasing the bolt attaching the strut assembly to the control arm. Anyone know of any secret tricks, special tools, or ancient voo-doo chants that might help with this? I tried soaking in WD-40, prying with a crowbar, banging with a hammer, etc… all to no avail. And I thought this was supposed to be one of the easier steps. :sick:
Thanks,
Steve, aka the "anti-mechanic"[/quote]
Do you mean the ball joint on the end of the control arm won’t come out of the bottom of the strut assy?
You will need to use a pickle fork or some other type of ball joint seperator. You can rent a C shaped ball joint press from Autozone…Pay the deposit and return the tool for a refund. If it is going to be replaced…whack the crap out of it with a BFH…
Post edited by: nasaregistrar, at: 2006/05/24 06:37
We put the strut on a board, hanging the balljoint off, and hit the control arm "convincingly" w/ an 8-lb sledge hammer. Give progressively more "convincing" blows until it pops off. Replace control arm…
SMD
nasaregistrar wrote:
Do you mean the ball joint on the end of the control arm won’t come out of the bottom of the strut assy?
[/quote]
That’s exacly what I mean. I did eventually get the passenger side off last night, after pulling out a B’erFH than I was previously using. I got some help from a friend, and while one of us put pressure on the the ball joing with a crowbar the other whacked the bolt with a hammer until it finally released. Unfortunately, the hammer-whacking did destroy the bolt, so I will have to replace the control arm (new 4 months ago). Oh well. I’ll see if I can hunt down a pickle fork for the drivers side.
Thanks, all, for the suggestions. I was expecting someone would share a secret Gregorian chants (ouy-mui-mai—maaaaaal-wha-wha-shui-ka-ma…) or something, that might magically pop the thing off.
Steve
BMP design in texas sells a replacement balljoint that can be pressed in for about 40.00 but shipping and getting it pressed out/in may not be worth while since a CA is about 80.00
use antiseize on the stud taper when you reinstall.
BMP design in texas sells a replacement balljoint that can be pressed in for about 40.00 but shipping and getting it pressed out/in may not be worth while since a CA is about 80.00.
Get the ball joint tool…it is worth every penny. If they are really stuck make sure you leem the nut on the stud if you use the lever type as you can apply enough force to mushroom the stud and booger the threads…How do I know this you ask…
use antiseize on the stud taper when you reinstall.
Post edited by: nasaregistrar, at: 2006/05/24 13:36
nasaregistrar wrote:
[quote]BMP design in texas sells a replacement balljoint that can be pressed in for about 40.00 but shipping and getting it pressed out/in may not be worth while since a CA is about 80.00.
Get the ball joint tool…it is worth every penny. If they are really stuck make sure you leem the nut on the stud if you use the lever type as you can apply enough force to mushroom the stud and booger the threads…How do I know this you ask…
use antiseize on the stud taper when you reinstall.<br><br>Post edited by: nasaregistrar, at: 2006/05/24 13:36[/quote]
Whoa, Sean -
(1) leem the nut?
(2) mushroom the stud?
(3) booger the threads?
these are technical terms, right? :pinch:
LOL…I am one of those computer guys who can’t type…
Leave the nut on the ball joint stud or yes you will mushroom the stud…Think the end of a chisel that has been hit too many times.
and boogered threads are universal http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=boogered+threads&btnG=Google+Search
Gotta have the right tool for the job!!!
This job is crying out for an AIR HAMMER.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_1103_1103
Harbor freight has them cheaper.
Takes longer to find it and hook it up. Put the pointy punch in. Set it in the dimple in the top of the stud.
BBRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRPPPPP- CLANG- done.
Easy…If you have air…thus begins the slippery slope in pursuit of tools…
I had to convince myself to buy a compressor.
Now, I don’t see how I ever got anything done without it. 'Best money I’ve spent in a long time.
Carter
I vote +1 for a compressor…I have a little cheap one and a costco set of air tools and while I know they are low end tools…I have easily received my money’s worth over the years. A big compressor and NICE tools is even better…
Sean …who really needs a garage