Trubl w/ discon of strut from tie rod.. help?

#1

This is my first time taking apart suspension. I’m on my way to install of camber plates.

I’m stuck on step 7 of Bentley’s, To remove front struts.
I pulled off the nuts, the hub has been jacked up an inch or two, and I was able to free the tie rod, but the control arm does not want to come free from the strut. The mashed rubber seems to be glue-ing the two together.

I think I need to go buy a ball peen hammer and just knock it free, is that right?

What size hammer should i get?

What do I hit? The scew that is sticking through? the tie rod?

Or do I need some sort of special tool?

Any advice would be much appreciated

#2

remove the inner control arm nut (22 mm) and the rear mount (lollipop - 2 17 mm bolts). This will allow the whole control arm to drop freely.

I use a pickle fork on both the hub mount and the inner one. You will need a BFH to hit the pickle fork. Spray the rubber boot with WD40 which will reduce the chance of ripping the boot (not an issue if you are going to replace it however).

Good luck!

#3

Here’s a picture of a pickle fork in action (if you’ve never used one)
Ed

#4

Control arms are about 80.00 each and are wear items.I would replace them if they are not new(er) and you are going to track the car. The ball joints wear out.

I have this tool to pop them loose without damaging the ball joint boots.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004158/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2004158/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=ball+joint+seperator

#5

Did it! :cheer:

Much thanks for the help/advice!

My first post was incorrect. I was having trouble loosening the tie rod, not the control rod (I’ll try to correct the original post).

I couldn’t find the pop-out tool suggested by nasaregistrar at local stores, and I was too impatient to wait for the internet-mail delivery… ah well, live and learn. I’m going to order this tool for future use so I don’t ruin these rubber boots next time.

Anyway, I got one those pickle forks, and with a small sledge, that did the job. The strut is now off the car. Only problem is that in the process I kind of damaged the rubber boot on the tie rod. Records say the tie rods were replaced less than 2yrs ago, so I wasn’t planning on replacing them.
Can this rubber boot on the tie rod be replaced/repaired, or should I just go ahead and replace the entire tie rods?

#6

yea - it takes some finesse not to tear them. If the tie rod is still good, I would put some RTV on the tear, let it dry, and put the tie rod back on. It should last a while - just check it occassionally. Auto zone has a pitman arm puller that will work on the tie rod ends, but not the control arms.
Ed

#7

I would put some RTV on the tear, let it dry, and put the tie rod back on.

What is RTV?

#8

Stuff like Permatex RTV silicone gasket maker. You can find it at any local auto parts store.
Ed

#9

Thanks for the RTV suggestion.

One more ridiculous new mechanic question:
Where do I get new locknuts for putting this back together?
I imagine I can get them at any auto parts store, but is there a standard or something I’m looking for to make sure they are good quality?

#10

grade 5 or better nylocks. I usually use grade 8 if they have them however. In a pinch, you can reuse the old ones with some blue locktite.

#11

I’m in the midst of doing this, as well. My RF control arm bushing gave upthe ghost at my last race.
I’m replacing the control arms and bushings; will I need to do an alignment afterwards? I’m assuming I should, but car alignments are kind of a black art to me.

#12

Coloradomark wrote:

[quote]I’m in the midst of doing this, as well. My RF control arm bushing gave upthe ghost at my last race.
I’m replacing the control arms and bushings; will I need to do an alignment afterwards? I’m assuming I should, but car alignments are kind of a black art to me.[/quote]

Generally you should have an alignment done anytime you change any part of the suspension. Having said that it will not be the end of the world if you don’t get one done.

#13

I’m definitely going to get alignment afterwards.
I’ve been told of this master of race aligns that can set me up, and I’m figuring maybe -3.5 in front, and -2.5 or better in rear.