Throttle body cooling


#1

Looks like there are two coolant lines running to the throttle body to keep it from icing in cold weather. Trying to simplify the hose routing as much as possible here, so are we allowed to remove these two hoses? One goes to the thermostat housing area, and the other to the block.


#2

Yes, remove them. It’s 2 fewer hoses to fail, one of which killed my engine #5.


#3

[quote=“Ranger” post=62415]Yes, remove them. It’s 2 fewer hoses to fail, one of which killed my engine #5.[/quote]Careful. With that line of reasoning (“get rid of anything that has killed one of Ranger’s engines”), we’d have to get rid of you. And you are way too entertaining for that to happen. :woohoo:


#4

There’s being able to drive a car, and there’s being entertaining. One should play to their strengths.

Maybe if I seemed to be better at the whole car driving schtick, I could take it more seriously.


#5

Happen to have a part number for the plug in the block?


#6

Is there a rule that allows this, or does it fall under the category of “no one’s gonna bitch”?


#7

[quote=regs]
9.3.5.3. Heaters
9.3.5.3.1. Heater hoses may be plugged.[/quote]

Yes?


#8

Damn. All that late night wrenching has made Ranger humorless. And I was trying to pay him a compliment. :huh:

9.3.5.1.5. Water hoses may be replaced.
3.5. “Replaced” means that the item may be replaced with items meeting or exceeding OEM specifications.
“I ‘replaced’ mine with plugs because the plugs are significantly lighter, therefore better than OEM spec.”


#9

I’m currently working on exactly this issue. I’ve gotten as far as to determine that the threads are definitely M12x1.5 and the length is roughly 14mm.

McMaster doesn’t have anything listed shorter than 20mm and they come in packs of 10.
Fastenal has a couple options in 16mm with a quantity of 1 so I may try that.
Lowe’s dosn’t seem to have any M10x1.5, but I’ll probably try HomeDepot this afternoon.

Matt


#10

When looking for metric, I find Ace Hardware to have the best selection.


#11

[quote=“Steve D” post=62428]Damn. All that late night wrenching has made Ranger humorless. And I was trying to pay him a compliment. :huh:
[/quote]
au contraire, perhaps I was too dry. I was attempting to express my (grudging) acceptance of the role I’ve found for myself as morale support officer.

Although, the swimming is going pretty well. There could be another triumphant return to triathlon in me. I do kind of miss being good at something. I mean other than chatting up your girlfiends.


#12

I’m currently working on exactly this issue. I’ve gotten as far as to determine that the threads are definitely M12x1.5 and the length is roughly 14mm.

McMaster doesn’t have anything listed shorter than 20mm and they come in packs of 10.
Fastenal has a couple options in 16mm with a quantity of 1 so I may try that.
Lowe’s dosn’t seem to have any M10x1.5, but I’ll probably try HomeDepot this afternoon.

Matt[/quote]

What did you plug the other holes with? Typically, I’ll just buy new hose and make a really short section with a bolt in it and some clamps…if I were to be so redneck.


#13

I’m currently working on exactly this issue. I’ve gotten as far as to determine that the threads are definitely M12x1.5 and the length is roughly 14mm.

McMaster doesn’t have anything listed shorter than 20mm and they come in packs of 10.
Fastenal has a couple options in 16mm with a quantity of 1 so I may try that.
Lowe’s dosn’t seem to have any M10x1.5, but I’ll probably try HomeDepot this afternoon.

Matt[/quote]

What did you plug the other holes with? Typically, I’ll just buy new hose and make a really short section with a bolt in it and some clamps…if I were to be so redneck.[/quote]
That’s exactly what I did and the short hose failed about an inch from the block. I’d just thread an appropriate size bolt or plug in. Or use this as the location for a remote pressure switch that will tell you if you lose coolant pressure. That’s what I did for old #6. For new #6 I’ll probably put the pressure switch into the radiator to overflow tank hose like Levie has.


#14

[quote=“Foglght” post=62441]
What did you plug the other holes with?[/quote]

On the thermostat housing we removed the pressed in 90* fitting then tapped and plugged the hole. Nothing needs to be done on the throttle body. They can just remain open.

Matt


#15

[quote=“Matt H.” post=62447][quote=“Foglght” post=62441]
What did you plug the other holes with?[/quote]

On the thermostat housing we removed the pressed in 90* fitting then tapped and plugged the hole. Nothing needs to be done on the throttle body. They can just remain open.

Matt[/quote]

I didn’t have a way to plug the thermostat housing part, so I just ran a new coolant line from there to the block and took the TB hoses out of the equation.

Is working ok for now. Over the winter I will figure something out.


#16

Make an adapter and install the water pressure switch in the TB hose fitting in the back of the block…that looses water first.


#17

+1.
Pull the block’s hose barb, grab a take-off OEM oil pressure switch and thread it into the port.

Note that the block’s hose barb might take some convincing to remove.


#18

Here is our write-up on how we deleted the throttle body cooling stuff. Hope this helps someone.

http://garagistic.com/index.php?page=m20-thermostat-housing---throttle-body-heater-delete


#19

Nice write-up.

RP