The numbers are in!

#1

2527# with a full tank of gas and no driver. Even with me at almost 200# with full equipment, I’m going to need to add some ballast. I figure a spare tire in the trunk will help, but it’ll only get me part way there. I’ve got to compensate for burning fuel too. I plan to bolt some weight down to the passenger floor. Is this the only place for ballast?

#2

I took my spare out because I was over (!) and it weighed about 32 lbs if I remember correctly.

#3

Rules say passenger footwell or the location of the passenger seat using the passenger mount points.

#4

You need weight in the rear of the car, over the rear axle.Put the spare in and leave it there as it makes a good item for the crush zone of a rear end impact. Stuff happens.

RP

#5

Thread hijack alert…

Ok, so I agree that the spare adds weight low at the rear where you want it, but my portly 4 door doesn’t seem to have much extra weight I can remove from up front, so what does one do? :S Tar is gone, heater is gone, passenger seat out. Still has the trim panels on the door but I don’t think aluminum ones would be much less if any.

#6

ddavidv wrote:

If you want working windows, you are probably right. Personally, I liked having NASCAR bars in the doors and EVERYTHING flammable out of the passenger compartment that could legally be removed.

When thinking about adding weight, there are lots of ways to do it legally besides spare tire and “ballast”. Search for other threads about ballast.

Back to OriginalSterm’s numbers, 2527 with a full tank is equal to roughly 2627 empty with driver, right? Spare tire, cool suit, robust battery mount, large fire bottle, and 50 lbs on passenger floor (get a photo of Levie’s setup if you want to do it right) and you are comfortably above 2750 at the end of a race.

#7

Steve D wrote:

[quote]
When thinking about adding weight, there are lots of ways to do it legally besides spare tire and “ballast”. Search for other threads about ballast.

Back to OriginalSterm’s numbers, 2527 with a full tank is equal to roughly 2627 empty with driver, right? Spare tire, cool suit, robust battery mount, large fire bottle, and 50 lbs on passenger floor (get a photo of Levie’s setup if you want to do it right) and you are comfortably above 2750 at the end of a race.[/quote]

Steve’s giving you good scoop. You just have to think out of the box. Everything you might be allowed/required to put in the car you could make weigh 20lbs with a little imagination. Recall the bracket we now have to put over our battery…make it weigh 20lbs. Make a 20lb mounting plate for your fire extinguisher or coolshirt box. The list is endless.

As we get in our cars, Brian Jones puts a cucumber down his shorts. He says it’s about making weight, but I dunno.

The lesson for the newbies that read this thread next year is…when you read everywhere “don’t remove your trunk tar until after your car is done”…don’t remove your trunk tar until after your car is done.

#8

How did I get to this number? Here’s how…

1987 325iS - 2 door coupe
trunk tar removed by previous owner
all sound deadening from floor removed
door cards removed
e-brake removed
HVAC stuff behind dash removed
AC stuff removed from engine bay
Both fans removed (front of engine and radiator), electric SPAL fan installed
2 Cobra race seats, harnesses at both
window net/side net installed
fire extinguisher, no fire bottle
sun roofed completely removed, steel panel riveted in place
15x7 Konigs
"stout" cage welded in
full size battery
windows still installed and functioning
power steering still installed and functioning
no spare in trunk

#9

The cucumber is for a mid race snack. I like to eat healthy.

Also, don’t forget, the new rules say your battery hold down apparatus cannot weigh more than 6lbs.

#10

Jones wrote:

True, but it doesn’t say how short your battery cables have to be. :wink:

#11

Steve D wrote:

[quote]Jones wrote:

True, but it doesn’t say how short your battery cables have to be. ;)[/quote]

I have a spool of 0 gauge in the garage you can use. Its worth 20 lbs easy. Just bolt it down with 2 half in bolts and you should be fine. :slight_smile:

#12

Jones wrote:

[quote]The cucumber is for a mid race snack. I like to eat healthy.

[/quote]
Good one. But god in heaven just be sure it’s the cucumber the you pull out.

#13

You can also find a heavier battery. Take a scale with you to Autozone and look at the big tractor batteries. Also make sure you have the dimensions of the mounting location. Get a full on fire system and put the bottle in the trunk. Add some more cage tubes, OD=1.75", ID=.0001".

Michael

#14

You can always add back in the weight with 17 oil and water pressure and temperature gauges, associated wiring (thick gauge), “necessary” sensors, Accusump and remote oil filter housings… Homemade Stack dash to act as redundancy to gauge failures and inaccuracies. Make sure not to forget to add in that large, heavy oil cooler. Make the mounting brackets out of lead. Use lead based paint to rust proof it. Kids love it. So did the Romans.

#15

ilateapex wrote:

[quote]You can also find a heavier battery. Take a scale with you to Autozone and look at the big tractor batteries. Also make sure you have the dimensions of the mounting location. Get a full on fire system and put the bottle in the trunk. Add some more cage tubes, OD=1.75", ID=.0001".

Michael[/quote]
Technically, according to the written rules you are not allowed to replace the battery. Replacement is not permitted, therefore it “…must remain as it came from the factory.”

Of course, I think the reasonable interpretation is that you can replace the battery with one of roughly identical size/weight. But you cannot put in a heavier battery. Legally. :wink:

Maybe we need a rule that says that wear items may be replaced?