The Latest Spec E30 Build...IN PROGRESS

#1

Hey guys, the “fo-dough” is amidst it’s build and I have a few questions.

I’ve spent the last few days gutting the interior and am presently working on getting the sunroof “cassette” (inner roofskin) cut out.

The car is scheduled to go in for a cage next week.

I want to take care of some items over the weekend and figure you all can answer these questions:

In doing a search regarding the ignition/steering wheel lock, I found one that stated “drive the pin out and you’re done” - I have an '89 non-airbag 325i - does anyone have pics they can post, email to me or writeup a more detailed procedure? I want to disable the ignition/steering wheel lock per NASA rules.

Either that, or I can post pics once I “Git ‘R’ Dun”…just need proper guidance. :slight_smile:

Regarding windows, front and rear door windows:

I assume I have to retain the glass in the rear doors due to the rules stating the last name of the driver has to be in block letters on the rear door window…are most of you removing the electric window mechanism and re-installing/fastening the glass in another manner?? …or just leaving the rear door internals alone?

Front doors: I assume that most of you are GUTTING the front doors on a fo-dough and 2dr. models…is there a handy way to re-insert the glass and hold it in place for transport/overnight in the paddock?

Thanks for your help on these issues, I want to do it right the 1st time. :smiley:

#2

Jeff, welcome to racing on the cheap.

Lock pin, can’t remember.

Rear door windows,just leave 'em in as well as the hardware. The weight stays in the rear where you want it.

Front windows, you can remove 'em as long as NASCAR bars go into the door cavity.Replace with cut to fit plexiglass.However, even with your size, you’ll be right at the weight so removing the glass is a bigger inconvenience than it is worth. Ask me how I know…I’ve built 3 of 'em.

In the overall scheme of things you can work your butt off to get the weight from front to back, but the effect is only 2% or about 60lbs.

Call if you want to discuss, Robert Patton 800-755-1715

#3

Thanks for the quick reply Robert…I might give you a call here soon.

Is there any reason the rear windows need to be operational? …one of them doesn’t work and it appears I would need to replace the assembly as I can hear the motor “click” when I hit the switch, but no dice…changed window switches and all…the doorlock doesn’t actuate in that door as well, kind of a nuisance but no big deal…after all, it is a race car! :unsure:

Yeah, I’ve been told I really don’t need to play the “weight game” as you can only replace with max of 100lbs ballast on the passenger side but I would like to get it so I can carry 100lbs over there and be close to minimum!

I need to figure out this steering column locking mechanism, admittedly, I haven’t looked at it whatsoever - just thought it was a good question to launch “out there” so I’m prepared when I tackle this item.

Thanks again. :slight_smile:

#4

Jeff, I don’t have a picture handy, but if the 87’s are like 89’s it’s pretty easy.

Remove the steering wheel (key must be unlocked to get the wheel to come off)

On the top of the steering column is a square pin, about 3/4 inch long, pointed straight up. When the ignition is unlocked the pin is retracted, and when you turn the key to lock and remove it, the pin extends up about a half-inch.

The pin needs to be removed. Small screwdriver, pliers, and some cussing should do the trick.

#5

A BFG (big fucking grinder) and a smile also work–less cussing. Just grind it down, poke it through the hole, and extract it.

Sasha

#6

Jeff,

When you remove the steering wheel you will see a small roll pin located horizontally in front of the lock. I used a needle nose to work the pin out to the right (it only goes one way). Once that is out you can use a small screwdriver to work the bottom of the lock out towards you. It should just fall out from there.
Good luck.

Bob

#7

Thanks for the tips guys. I got the steering wheel lock out on Saturday, no sweat.

I finished scraping interior insulation earlier today, what a mess…thanks to another racer I took the “spatula and a heat gun” approach and it worked like a champ.

Now what to do with the NASTY-ass residue??

Easy, about 4-5 cans of Brakleen and 3-4 towels one is willing to trash afterwards…thankfully I had the windshield out, the sunroof out and the windows down - WHEW! :blink:

I also finished cutting out the ENTIRE sunroof cassette/tray…what a job but the 2nd time I have to do it will likely take me HALF the amount of time. I now see that I have no choice than to use a sheet of metal to cover the hole as there is NOTHING left to attach the original sunroof panel back in. :unsure:

Any tips on what type sheetmetal to use and where to obtain? Does it help to run it through a sheetmetal (damn, forget the name of the machine, has rollers and “flexes” sheet metal to curve/bend it) - should I tack weld it on or just use those BIG flange rivets every few inches?

FWIW, I weighed 32lbs worth of headliner material, sunroof guts, sunroof panel and the two pieces of sunroof cassette/tray I cut out - that’s A LOT of weight out of the top of the car.

For those of you who plan to remove this in the future…hopefully you don’t have a cage in there already! …and buy a spot weld drill bit, makes it a fairly easy job with a little cutting required for the four brackets the are welded to the roofline to assist in holding the sunroof tray in.

The car goes in for a cage first thing in the morning…can’t wait to get a week or two break from the car and work on my 911 racer for the VIR event. :woohoo:

#8

Hi Jeff,
I just got a 2’x4’ piece of steel from Lowes (has to be steel to be legal), cut down the length so I had about 2" all around and siliconed and riveted it on. I put it in place and taped around it so I wouldn’t have such a big mess to clean up when the siliconed squished out.
cheers,
bruce

#9

Trackrocket, I did the sunroof effort a couple months ago. I riveted on a piece of sheetmetal that I bought from a local metal supplier for the price of a beer.

Points of interest.

  1. I didn’t bother with any kind of rolling, but if you paint it, you might support it such that it gently curves. That way the paint will go on the sheetmetal in roughly it’s ultimate shape.

  2. When you cut the sheetmetal, not that it is not exactly square.

  3. Some paints don’t adhere to galvanized steel well. Are you listening Rustoleum.

  4. Don’t be tempted to spray on clearcoat.

  5. Standard rivets worked fine for me. I didn’t use any kind of unusually large flange type.

  6. Some folks have separated the two layers of steel that make up the origonal sunroof, and then put the outer sheet back in place. From the outside, it’s a an elegant solution. There are old threads about that. If I had it to do over again, I’d try that.

#10

Regular rivets worked fine for me. Check the length to make sure they go through completely. Steel is best; aluminum may react with the steel car body and corrode. Don’t be shy about overlapping the opening as it allows more room for sealer. I used double lines of caulk to try to prevent leaks. I still get the occasional dribble but it’s very minor. Paint the underside of the panel BEFORE you rivet it in. I didn’t have any problems with the roof curvature. It’s not the most elegant solution, but it certainly is the easiest. Once it’s on the car and painted it doesn’t stand out that much.

#11

After using the heat gun and spatula, I was able to get the rest of the residue off with a gas-soaked rag. Then again, I clean a lot of stuff with gas at the shop as it does a hell of a job. Anyways, working in short time increments and some fans blowing on the car and all the windows open to try to keep the fumes away I was able to get about 95% of the residue off with little effort. I also used a drill with a wirebrush bit for some of the tougher parts, the rest I’m hoping just gets covered up when I paint the interior.

*No research has been done to know if higher octane fuel cleans better, though the fresher the gas, the better job it does as far as I’m concerned.

As for the sunroof, in order to keep the replacement panel in the BMW family I cut out a piece of another roof we had laying around and cut it down to size. Haven’t attached it yet, but it should do the job just fine.

#12

To get all the residue off I used goo-gone in the spray can…oh and it was the professional strength. No scrubbing, no scraping, just a rag to wipe if off with. Then again I prefer to use the good banned in California type stuff.

#13

Another option for the residue is mineral spirits. Low-odor, fairly safe to work with and does the job. A bit of steel wool is good to have around too.