I finally got the car signed off this weekend and in its first race. Now to begin the arduous task of actually building a race car. The thing is bone stock except for the required SE30 suspension bits. I was so slow I was asked to add “Milka” to the window stickers above my last name to give people fair warning. The motor twisted so far it cut through two radiator hoses in two sessions. I weighed in at 2818 with a 150# driver. I have new AKG motor, tranny, and diff mounts sitting on my kitchen table (yes the CFO is doubly thrilled). I obviously need all the other rubber in the car, not to mention camber plates, rear toe adjusters, and the like. But if you were going to replace components on a limited time and money budget basis, what order would you do them in? What’s the best bang for the suspension clean up buck? Putnam’s in two weekends and I’ll probably only get a handful of stuff sorted.
The importance of new bushings, camber plates, etc
Obviously, install the AKG bushings you already have purchased. From there I would do front camber plates. Did you do anything with the front control arm bushings? I would replace those with AKG poly. The rear is a separate issue and when you are ready I suggest having a subframe modified with adjusters of your choice. While it’s out of the car you will also install poly or solid rear subframe bushings. If you havent already I would also do the rear upper shock mounts pretty soon. Those are relatively cheap from AKG or vendor of your liking.
For what its worth I would not suggest this. Its just one more thing to fall out of alignment and it is extra work for debateable return. For a guy just starting I definitely wouldn’t bother with it. I don’t have them in my car and its plenty fast.
For what its worth I would not suggest this. Its just one more thing to fall out of alignment and it is extra work for debateable return. For a guy just starting I definitely wouldn’t bother with it. I don’t have them in my car and its plenty fast.[/quote]
I definitely notice an improvement in handling. Tire wear in the rear is much better as well. I have been driving E30s with stock rear subframes for years on the track and never really gave much thought to doing the adjusters. I had the subframe out to do bushings and decided to do the adjusters to get more camber back there. Stock is around -1.7 to - 1.8. I have -2.5 back there now and I really like it. I do not disagree with you that it’s more to worry about, but the new weld in kits hold alignment much better than the old style. I plan to put it back on the rack around mid season and check the values back there. Will be interesting to see what the result is. To original poster: the rear adjusters would be the last thing I do.
The engine mounting tabs on the subframe should also get the weld in reinforcements. They can break and ruin your week in a similar fashion.
You’re building a race car. There is no place for a compliant bushing in a race car!! Solid everything you can.
Rear subframe adjustments…these will improve overall grip by adding camber and removing excess toe. Some can be problematic, some not. BMW makes a unit for the 5 car that is perfect. Chuck
Moral of the above comments is to check your current alignment (after the camber plates go in). If you have rear toe-out, you’re going to be constantly focusing on keeping the rear end in check. If it’s 0 or toe-in, you’re good. If it’s close to 0, let it slide for now.
Thanks. FCABs have not been done yet either. I have all new bushings for the front but haven’t ordered the arms yet. Will get that done as I’m putting in motor mounts. I do have the reinforcements. The rears were so much fun I can hardly wait to try the fronts with my kindergarten level welding skills. Not to dis any kindergartners reading this. The general drift I’m getting (pardon the pun) is to get the front in shape and let the rear slide 'til later. Which it is more than happy to do.