Mine fit very snugly against the lip and the side of the trailing arm. Did you losen the bottom bracket enough so you can lift it up above the lip then drop it in place? I can see it being a problem otherwise. You can confirm with IE but I am about 99.9% sure that it needs to be turned so that the bearing pivots from front to back. Good luck.
Sway links
Proeagles
#42
My recommendation would be to change the oreintation of the lower link to have the sperical bearing match that of the top. That way the link can freely move up and down if needed to reduce stress. The link would want to rotate fore and aft and not side to side.
Proeagles
#43
My recommendation would be to change the oreintation of the lower link to have the sperical bearing match that of the top. That way the link can freely move up and down if needed to reduce stress. The link would want to rotate fore and aft and not side to side.
rsott
#44
Does this hold true for the front sway bar links as well? Should both ends be in the same plane? The reason I ask is that the OE link ends are oriented at 90 degrees to each other (see below). I have adjustable rod end links that came with my IE sway bar kit and I want to make sure I install them correctly.
Thanks
Bob 
makaio
#45
I installed mine so that they are on the same plane, unlike the factory ones that are 90 degrees from each other.
Teufelauto
#46
You may consider buying a spare pair of rod ends from mcmaster. I found one of my rear rod ends broken. Probably from a hole or something I drove over.
The highlighted line is what is used on the rear.
esphoto
#48
Thanks Teufelauto, thats a great idea, and thanks for doing the research on that. I am ordering the IE bars from BW. And I want to do it over the phone to make sure I get the one with the Rod end in the middle of the billet mount. IMO, after building several off road (desert) vehicles, rod ends as pictured at a 90* from each other look like they will bind. Its all a matter of “cycling” your suspension (I would do it with the spring out, but the shock, on as this is what is acting as your bump/droop stop), but also to realize that in extreme situations ie hitting a big hole, or nailing a track curb could force it to go further than what you can cycle with your jack and your coils removed. This will tell you if you are getting any binding in the rod ends. However, IMO run them in the same plane. Turn the mounting tab, grind the TA lip if need be, and make a new reinforcement tab and weld it in and you are ready to go. I will post pics once i get mine. Waiting for the Amex card to arrive! That is how i am funding this build. If anyone is in the SoCal area and needs parts installed, tabs welded etc. Lemme know. I will do it for a reasonable price. Which i usually a lot less than most fab shops will do it for. espphotography@gmail.com