 |
|
Just looking for assistance so I can do this all at once, here is what I have:
Springs, Struts, Shocks, rear reinforcement plate and mount
Checklist of things I probably need:
Lemforder Control Arms
Tie Rod Assembly
AKG bushings (FR/RR)
M3 Offset CABS
Front Camber Plates aren’t in the budget to date.
Anything I am missing, advice from those who have done it, brand specific or suggestions?
My thoughts:
You may want/need to install new strut bearings if camber plates aren’t in your budget. That may depend on the condition of your current strut bearings and how soon you think you’ll get the camber plates. Hate to spend money on bearings if camber plates are in the near future, but if your existing ones are shot, you’ll need one or the other.
New sway bars, if in your current budget.
New brake lines are in the “while you are in there” category, and stainless would be better. Note that installing the inner rear lines is a pain unless you are already dropping the rear subframe to replace the subframe bushings.
Rear trailing arm bushings.
If you don’t put camber plates on, you’ll go thru your front tires very quickly. A set of camber plates costs about the same as a pair of tires. You can either buy some camber plates now, or buy some camber plates and a set of tires after 2 events.
Since you’re pulling apart the rear, this is the time to put in eccentric rtabs or one of those two/camber kits with weld-on tabs.
My 2 cents: (still DD,AutoX,HPDE)
Just did the AKG 75D race bushings all around. All the originals were toast, realy realy toast.
I love the suspension set up. Offset Front CAB’s. Subframes.
Did the weld on plates for RTAB, eccentric bolts. The bushings are the normal shape.
Probably not neccessary but helped dial in the rear end a bit, which is nice.
We also did the 75D Diff tans and motormounts, nice and tight but dang the vibrations inside are crazy, may have prefered the softer 80 poly for drive line?
On the ST bars, after I broke a tab we welded the 2 reinforcment plates at 90 degree angle to the original tab underneath, (triagle)cut a slot to the hole to accomidate the brake lines. Nice. Maybe stronger than welding them flat onto original tabs, but either way a must do.
Vorshlag SpecE30 camber plates are next $419, We are choosing these over GC’s.
and of course I have the H&R race and Billy sports.
I’m getting closer…
PS used Lemfoerder endlinks on front, GKN half shafts, had drive shaft rebuilt
You could save some $$ with VMTechnik camber plates.
Valley Motorwerks, a SpecE30 oriented shop on the leftcoast makes some parts under the VMTechnik brand. I swapped out my failing Ireland camber plates for far more rugged $275 VMTechnik plates last year.
Sweet, suddenly VMTechnik plates sound great! (VMWerks)
(need to fix some of their webpages, trying to find pics for comparison)
…But Honey you dont understand… Ranger said it was cheaper than buying another pair of tires.
Thanks all, decided to leave the rear alone for now, yesterday was like Christmas here…received all replacement parts for front suspension refresh, shocks/springs, AKG bushings, Schroth harnesses and now have my weekend planned. So I have the following left to do: Sways, Camber Plates and rear subframe refresh. Sways and camber plates are pretty self explanatory the list I have for rear refresh would be:
RTAB’s (weld on)
Eccentric AKG bushings
AKG Subframe bushings
AKG Diff bushing? (I’ve read that the stock is pretty strong and can keep it??)
SS Brake Lines
New Sway end links as well?
After the weekend I should be able to take her for the first drive, had the car since November…so slightly anxious.
Delphin25 wrote:
Can you expand on these? I am looking at replacing my half shafts, but from what I have heard all the rebuilds are pretty poor quality and can need some work to get them installed.
Has anyone used the swaybar kit from Bimmerworld? How does this compare with the UUC kit? I found the additonal 2" clearance in rear slightly tempting.
King Tut: GKN axles
My old shop said theyre the only ones they will use. Not worth rebuilding.
My new shop put them on their SpecE30 also. (track record at Cali Speedway) So it seems like it was a good choice.
Expensive though, like $320 each from Pelican for ones with ABS.
Key is to wire brush the heck out of the teeth inside and use lots o grease so they slide right in, I banged one in on the metal seal and lost the grease on outside CV joint ugh, had to re pack it and seal with RTV. So far so good. Bonehead move on my part.
Ive seen post/article on people who have rebuilt them themselves,cheaper. It cost almost the same to get a shop to rebuild the CV joints, so I bought 2 and did it myself.
cganne:
I think the AKG RTAB kit uses regular bushings its the bolts that are eccentric. Hold better than eccentric bushings alone, and are now legal. Some one correct me if I’m wrong.
Also I’m told if you do the diff do the trans and engine mounts to match.
Again I might try the blue 80A polys, the red 75D seem too hard? Not sure what other use here, some go all the way with delrin, or aluminum.
cganne wrote:
[quote]Thanks all, decided to leave the rear alone for now, yesterday was like Christmas here…received all replacement parts for front suspension refresh, shocks/springs, AKG bushings, Schroth harnesses and now have my weekend planned. So I have the following left to do: Sways, Camber Plates and rear subframe refresh. Sways and camber plates are pretty self explanatory the list I have for rear refresh would be:
RTAB’s (weld on)
Eccentric AKG bushings
AKG Subframe bushings
AKG Diff bushing? (I’ve read that the stock is pretty strong and can keep it??)
SS Brake Lines
New Sway end links as well?[/quote]
If you use the weld on RTAB adjusters you don’t need (or want) eccentric bushings. If you are using stock sways, then you want new links. If you are using the Spec E30 sways, they come with end links.
The ST bars come with rear links.
For the fronts I got new Lemfoerders.
RTAB and Subframe pic (SpecE30 porno :whistle:):
