Should diff input flange be centered in subframe?

#1

Sorry, I’m not sure where to post this topic.

I have the subframe out of the car and i’m currently looking at the diff and subframe still bolted together sitting on the floor. No trailing arms or axles. I just replaced the output flange seals and i’m thinking life is good.

However, i go to check out the intput flange (peering through the subframe hole) and i notice this sucker is way out of center. Should the flange be centered in the subframe hole?? I’d a solid 1" from center to the passenger side. What in the world…

Any input would be appreciated… i hope i don’t need a new subframe… gah.

#2

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#3

My car is up on jackstands so I checked mine and it is off center exactly as yours is (my car is an '89 325i). Not sure if that means it is right or wrong…

Steven

#4

Dan,

looks normal to me.

Bret.

#5

I presently have my subframe out of the car. I will check mine and report back.

Andy

#6

I presently have my subframe out of the car. I will check mine and report back.

Andy

#7

Thanks a lot, guys. I got more good answers here than on bimmerforums, e30tech, and r3vlimited combined :stuck_out_tongue:

While we’re on the topic, any recommendations for the best way to reinstall the subframe w/ the diff, trailing arms, and axles all attached? I removed it w/o punching the subframe mounting pins up into the car, but i think i might have to to get it installed easier. am i on the right track?

Thanks again

#8

TXBDan wrote:
While we’re on the topic, any recommendations for the best way to reinstall the subframe w/ the diff, trailing arms, and axles all attached? I removed it w/o punching the subframe mounting pins up into the car, but i think i might have to to get it installed easier. am i on the right track?

Thanks again[/quote]

Ughh that’s a lot of weight (~190 lb IIRC) to move around and position properly. I guess it would be possible with few jacks and/or some kind of a dolly. I put my subframe with trailing arms attached, and then put halfshats and diff – one man operation without too much sweat.
If you decide to put it up all as one unit, be careful that it doesn’t fall on you – but I guess you thought of that :slight_smile:

igor

#9

Its very easy with two people.,… Otherwise you will have a VERY hard time aligning just the subframe with trailing arms attached. Then you will have to jack up the diff and align it. Not impossible, but not fun.

With two people you can manuever the whole assembly into place, one person working the jack, one on the alignment. Just be careful, thats a lot of weight.

If you do it by yourself, attach the subframe with TA’s but without diff. Locating the diff mount bolts into the diff thereafter is hard but not impossible. I have some tricks, not rocket science, but if you get stumped I can help, as Im sure others can as well.

Brian (done this too many times solo, and bitter) :angry:

#10

haha. agreed, It looks like it’d be a daunting task alone. I have a friend coming by to help after work tonight and hopefully we can get 'er in. I’ll try w/ the pins in place first, and then if that doesnt work i’ll knock em up in the car and try that way.

#11

In addition to a friend to help, a second floor jack makes the job much easier.

#12

I would definitely do it with the diff OFF the subframe. it is not that hard to attach the diff later.

#13

Do you guys try and leave the pins that go throught he subframe bushings in place, or do you knock them up, align the subframe, and then knock them down into the bushings?

#14

I only remove the pins if the subframe is really hard to remove from the car, if not, I like having them there to align the subframe when reinstalling.

#15

haha. agreed, It looks like it’d be a daunting task alone. I have a friend coming by to help after work tonight and hopefully we can get 'er in. I’ll try w/ the pins in place first, and then if that doesnt work i’ll knock em up in the car and try that way.