Short shifter

#1

Is the B&M the standard or are they any other "affordable" options?

#2

e36 m3, Z3, Z4 all are oem BMW parts and will work.

But I have to ask…Why?

Guarantee you can’t shift any faster and the chance of get the WRONG gear…2nd instead of 4th or 3rd instead of 5th…during the heat of battle increase dramatically since the pattern is narrower.

Rev limiter won’t help you then when the tach sees 9500…

Is it even legal? I don’t remember.

Clutch stop will speed up shifts MUCH more and they cost $4 bucks to make.

Clutch stop sets the lower limit of the clutch just beyond where the clutch is completely disengaged. That cuts about 2" of travel out of the leg movement and lets you rip off smooth fast sure shifts.

Just my NSHO

#3

I have a short shifter on my Z3, and I love it. The oem shifter 325 feels like a truck, I guess I can use the oem from the Z3 then.
I got the clutch stop from Lowes, and it really works.

#4

I picked up a race shifter from UUC and its has worked out pretty good. Except for missing 2nd gear on the start of a race at Summit last summer. I think it cost $150 but if you are a NASA, BMWCCR, or SCCA member you get 10% off.

You should also upgrade the bushings with UUC’s Delrin Carrier
Bushings. They cost $25 and really take a lot of slop out of the shifter.

#5

I have an E36 M3 shifter in my car and I have missed a few shifts during standing starts. At the National Championship weekend, I got into the reverse area, at the start of one of the qualifying races. Going from first to second, I pulled the shifter slightly left and couldn’t get it into second. I went from 4th to 8th in the field before I finally got it into second.

I’m not heavy-handed with the car but I decided to do the 1st-to-2nd shift in a very deliberate way (costing some time) and using finger pressure only. It worked but I still don’t like it. There are plenty of other things to think about during a standing start. Whether I’ll get second this time shouldn’t be one of them.

I’m considering taking out the short shifter.

Also, Carlton has the clutch stop and driving his car around the shop convinced me to get/make one.

Carter

#6

I have a Z3 shifter that came installed by previous owner. Seems to work fine for me. If I remember correctly, there are two different part numbers, one causing the shift knob to be further forward than the other. One of the online knowledge bases has the part numbers. I can’t go pull the # off mine as it’s too long a swim.

#7

screwynewy wrote:

[quote]I picked up a race shifter from UUC and its has worked out pretty good. Except for missing 2nd gear on the start of a race at Summit last summer. I think it cost $150 but if you are a NASA, BMWCCR, or SCCA member you get 10% off.

You should also upgrade the bushings with UUC’s Delrin Carrier
Bushings. They cost $25 and really take a lot of slop out of the shifter.[/quote]
Ken,
How do you like that UUC shifter? I need to replace the busted shifter console I have when I finally swap the trans and was considering that part.

#8

OEM shifter comparison here:
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27312&highlight=z4+shifter Anyone have a photo of this clutch stop you speak of?

#9

Sean,

It’s a well made quality shifter. Don’t be misled by the term "short shifter" as this thing is no shorter than the stock shifter. It just reduces (slightly) the distance of the shifter travel, but you knew that already.

The delrin carrier bushings really helped tighten up the shifter alot. For the money its not a bad shifter option.

#10

ddavidv wrote:

[quote]OEM shifter comparison here:
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27312&highlight=z4+shifter Anyone have a photo of this clutch stop you speak of?[/quote]

Here is a picture of the one from UUC. It cost $18 with current discount. Or you can make one for $2 with parts from Home Depot.

#11

I have the Z3 shifter in my car as well and its okay. Well except for when the shift knob came off in my hand at Road Atl during the standing start. That thing rolled around under my pedals for about 10 laps. I would like to try something different. Gasman (Steve) has the Rogue shifter and its really nice. I may go with that one.

#12

Thanks Damion, I’m pleased with it and would recommend it to others.

#13

screwynewy wrote:

[quote]Sean,

It’s a well made quality shifter. Don’t be misled by the term "short shifter" as this thing is no shorter than the stock shifter. It just reduces (slightly) the distance of the shifter travel, but you knew that already.

The delrin carrier bushings really helped tighten up the shifter alot. For the money its not a bad shifter option.[/quote] yeah, I know what the short part is, and really don’t care about that part, just the console needs to be replaced anyway and the wear parts are better in the UUC part.

#14

screwynewy wrote:

[quote]ddavidv wrote:

[quote]OEM shifter comparison here:
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27312&highlight=z4+shifter Anyone have a photo of this clutch stop you speak of?[/quote]

Here is a picture of the one from UUC. It cost $18 with current discount. Or you can make one for $2 with parts from Home Depot. [/quote]
I believe it’s an "elevator" bolt and nut, that’s all you need.
Make sure you get enough room to engage the clutch, I had to stop once when driving at Cali Speedway because I couldn’t shift since the clutch was too short.
That was easy, my old oem Z3 shifter, plus delrins and I’m good to go.

#15

yes, and you will find that Lowes sells a rubber slider that goes under a chair leg for sale that can be glued right onto the bolt to cushion it a bit. Double nutting it stops it from backing out.
cheers,
bruce

BETO wrote:

[quote]
I believe it’s an "elevator" bolt and nut, that’s all you need.
Make sure you get enough room to engage the clutch, I had to stop once when driving at Cali Speedway because I couldn’t shift since the clutch was too short.
That was easy, my old oem Z3 shifter, plus delrins and I’m good to go.[/quote]

#16

take the plastic one out. go to home depot, find a bolt same thread pitch about 1.5 maybe 2 inches long, a nut and a chair leg tip in rubber that fits.

Screw the nut on the bolt, screw the bolt in the car. adjust the height to stop the clutch when it is completely disengaged. Put the rubber tip on.

Notice you no longer push an extra 2-3 inches to the floor now!!

Much faster shifts.

Total cost. less than $4.00.

#17

ok well I am bringing this thread back from the dead but I need to change the shifter bushings because the slope is really bad. I looked on the UUC website for the bushings and couldn’t find them, does someone have a link to the parts I need to clean up the slope on the shifter?
-Thanks Brandon

#18

This is likely what you need - 25111469397 found at http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=cdus32yv4zxqkhyz2sdewmvl&makeid=800003@BMW&modelid=1011698@325I&year=1989&cid=33@Transmission/Transaxle%20System&gid=7766@Shift%20Lever%20Bushing

but you can probably get at you local dealer for 2x the price, but without shipping charges.
Ed

#19

I bought a new Z3 shifter that came with all of the clips, washers and stuff, and a UUC bushing. It was about $80 for the whole kit I think. Huge difference from stock. It was from KO performance. I think they had a posting on Bimmerworld or RV3 about it.

John

#20

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1413&mospid=47322&btnr=25_0027&hg=25&fg=05

part #14 is the most importaant part. Also do not forget #20
make sure part 32 is good and part #12 can be had in delrin from AKG or probably UUC