selecting a base vehical

#1

When you are choosing a vehical, what do you look for ??

Of course I know I need an e30 manual and that I’ll have to change the tires, shocks, brakes, etc.

But, is there anything that makes the conversion easier ??

#2

highflyer wrote:

[quote]

But, is there anything that makes the conversion easier ??[/quote]Time and Money… B)

Find one in good shape, as rust free as possible, get the rules and tape them to the window as you begin the build-up. search here for the more common answers and post up questions, the folks here are very helpful.

#3

nasaregistrar wrote:

[quote]highflyer wrote:

[quote]

Find one in good shape, as rust free as possible.[/quote]

I’ll echo that. Living in the NE the best E30 I could find still needed welding repairs to both front footwells, both rear suspension spring tops, the floor area where the transmission bracket bolts to the car (awkward to replicate as the mounting bolt area permits the bolt to slide allowing for different transmissions in the same unibody), the trunk floor area under the battery and a little bit of cosmetics around the rear wheel arches.

Make sure you get a car with as little rust as possible as you are going to want to be spending your time and money on preparing it for racing not repairing rust.

#4

Start with a 325i model. The 325e (sometimes badged as just a 325) have the lower-revving eta motor, which is no longer legal (nor desirable).

Some pioneers are working with the later 4-cylinder M42 cars, but if you’re asking what to start with, start with a 325i or 325is model. 2 or 4 doors seems to be a personal preference. There are no significant natural advantages to either.

Rust is a b*tch no doubt. Not just in the body repairs you’ll do, but it will slow down and frustrate everything else you do. Dropping the subframe on a southern car is 10 times easier than on a northern rustbucket, for example.

As has been said, print out and highlight the rules and refer to them often. As you remove and toss bits from the car, stop to make sure you can. Lot of wasted time and money to purchase and install parts that you discarded 6 months earlier!

#5

I would suggest a rust free 325is…then you have one less part to change, with that being the LSD…

#6

grydemon wrote:

And maybe some more valuable bits to sell off.

#7

grydemon wrote:

Probably good advice but the LSD did come on the 325i as an option as well so some have them and some don’t. To check if it has an lsd read this thread

http://spece30.com/component/option,com_mamboboard/Itemid,/func,view/catid,3/id,6176/#6176

#8

My 325i came with the LSD stock.

I concur with the no-rust car purchase. Yes, it is worth it to drive to a non-rust region and get a car there. The money you spend getting it home will easily be saved by not having to do rust repairs. Listen to me, a guy who owned Fiats for many years! Don’t buy a rusty project. There are too many solid cars with crappy interiors and high miles out there for the same price that will be perfect as a donor.

#9

Be very careful if you are looking at a car in, say Ohio or Michigan. The rust will render an otherwise decent looking car completely useless. Ask me how I know.