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I’ve read all of the previous posts on AKG and K-MAC adjustable rear trailing arm bushings. Is anyone running non-adjustable, and any comments on any problems with running non-eccentric/acentric bushings? I’ve got non-adjustable polys and am inclined to run them.
Thanks for any advice.
Ed
I think Steve D. in CA runs non-adjustable ones.
I say run them….I got AKGs “adjustable� but had to return them because they didn’t fit properly. To AKGs credit they sent me new ones and an “extra� part as gift to make up for the mistake. This set-back my built time table a bit, but hopefully I’ll have time to install them in the next few days – and I pray that they fir properly. At this point I wish I just ordered non-adjustable RTABs and be done with this part of the build.
Adjustable’s have obvious advantage but I am not sure what the associated cost over time it will be. Due to the setups that we are allowed to run, camber and toe can not be adjusted separately, so to do it properly there will (potentially) a long time spent on the alignment rack, which translates to a lot of $$$.
This article describes what I mean by "camber and toe can not be adjusted separately":
http://e30m3performance.com/tech_articles/susp-tech/ecc_bush/ecc_bush.htm
If we are able to run something like this
http://e30m3performance.com/installs/installs-3/jl_sub/index.htm
I think it would be actually cheaper
because “centered bushings� are cheaper, it’s much quicker (and hence cheaper) to adjust camber and toe settings, and couple of brackets and 4 bolts have only negligible price (have it professionally welded shouldn’t be that expensive either), and there is no performance difference, that I can see, between two setups.
(And no I am not trying to argue rules, I had enough of that for one month… 
)
Igor
Ed,
Did you ever adjust the eccentrics in Mikes car?
When I installed them they were just set to match each other. I don’t remember how I chose to set them ( I think I put them in to reduce excess camber…but that was a while ago) , but after I installed them I had the car measured on an alignment rack to make sure they weren’t wacky and never adjusted them at all.
I got them for a bargain price from a guy getting out of IT racing and put them in because I had them. Otherwise I think I would have gone non adjustable.
Ric
Igor, Thanks for the reply. After reading those articles, I am going to run the non-adj and hope for the best. It will make the rear suspension job go a lot quicker.
Ed
Ric - we have not checked the alignment in the rear. Tire wear seems OK, but probably not a bad idea, now that I know they are eccentric. Never really noticed - just checked to make sure the bolts were tight before each race.
Ed
I have the rear K Macs front and rear. A local Legends Car racer is the alignment guy at the local Benz delaership. He bought the dealer’s old rack and installed it in his garage at home.
He set my fronts (easy and quick) and rears (about 2 hours) and charged me all of $60.00. I couldn’t write the check fast enough!
I have also referred several guys to him and have him check mine at the beginning of every season. At the rear, we’re able to get -1.5 camber and zero toe which works for me. The car is very balanced and the tire wear is even. I know that even tire wear doesn’t always translate into the quickest lap times but it’s a factor in my racing budget.
Carter
Kmac’s eccentric rtabs are ok, but not the IE rear camber/toe kit? I guess I’ll get the Kmac’s instead of the oem’s bushings.