Replacing wheel bearings as preventative maint.

#7

still a pain even with the tool. i would replace them every 2 years anyways.

#8

It is all in the tool. For $400 you can get the master kit. For cheaper you can get the BMW bits only.

http://www.sirtools.com/B90.htm

I have used this on a number of different cars and it works like a charm. The PDF gives you a clue on how to use it.

#9

The B90 BMW looks like the ticket. The prices really varied on Google:

http://www.toolsource.com/wheel-bearing-p-104185.html

$247 with a free carbon fiber digital caliper sounds sweet. Anyone know of a better price?

#10

http://www.sirtools.com/B90.htm

This is the tool I own. I have just the BMW bits and it works great. I can do a rear bearing in about an hour. It is only difficult when things have not been taken a part in a while. When I put the half shafts back in, I use anti-sieze so they come out easy the next time. The job also goes smoother if you buy new backing plates. Trying to reuse them, after bending them up from getting things apart, is not worth the trouble.

Allan

#11

78kona wrote:

[quote]http://www.sirtools.com/B90.htm

This is the tool I own. I have just the BMW bits and it works great. I can do a rear bearing in about an hour. It is only difficult when things have not been taken a part in a while. When I put the half shafts back in, I use anti-sieze so they come out easy the next time. The job also goes smoother if you buy new backing plates. Trying to reuse them, after bending them up from getting things apart, is not worth the trouble.[/quote]
A slight mod to the tool allows the bearings to be changed w/o damaging the backing plates. What is needed is a pad to fit between the backing plate/hub and press frame. I use a couple of pieces of 5/8" aluminum.

#12

Just did the right front along with my brakes because of a loud groaning sound when I make a left at speed. Now I still have a faint groaning and pedal vibration when turning left. Do I just need a bearing, retainer and nut for each side.

#13

If you want to replace left front you do.

It could be your right rear tho.

#14

I think it might have just been a couple of loose wheel bolts after replacing the bearing and brakes. I should have drove around the block and then re-torqued them.

#15

Is there a preferred brand of wheel bearing? I am guessing they are not all built alike.

-Scott

#16

If you get FAG, SKF or Timken(SP?)you will be fine. All are quality brands and cover bearings for most if not all German marques.

#17

Looking for what I need to buy here as far as a bearing goes. I haven’t taken the thing apart yet, but when I looked on Bimmerparts.com all I could find was the REAR wheel bearing. Do the fronts come as part of the hub?

#18

For the front wheels you get a hub and bearing assembly. For the rears only a bearing.

#19

So, what does the specE30 crowd recommend for places to buy these parts from?

#20

Bimmerparts.com & ElephantMotorsports.com are the ones I’ve used the most.

#21

I bought my front from Bavarian autosport. 129 for meyle bearing, nut and cap. I know you can find it cheaper than that. Ireland Engineering replacment part section has meyle for 87, the skf for 150 and the nut for 7. You will also need a 36 mm socket I took my bearing and nut into autozone to find a socket. Although they had several 36mm “wheel hub sockets” none of them fit into the center of the hub and I ended up using a regular 1 1/2 socket. I suggest you order a socket made for e30 hubs when you order your bearings.

The rears I just got from IE yesterday for 51.49. I have never done the rears before but I will be rebuilding my cv joints at the same time since the boots are rotted through. I assume that the axles need to be removed for the replacement. The 6 bolts that go through the inner cv into the diff output flange love to come out. I would say clean them spotlessly and then use permanent locktight. I plan to drill and lockwire mine this time. When they come loose they will do damage including a shattered differential cover or worse. Ask me how I know this.

I don’t see a reason to replace them as preventative maintenance. I have always had bearing make noise before they have any play. Every Noisy bearing I have pulled off of one of these is perfect except for a tiny defect in the surface of the inner race. I suspect that these start out as an imperfection just under the surface like a bubble or impurity. The metal over the defect is stressed until it breaks off after a few years and you’re bearing starts to wear and make noise. If your bearings have been on the car for 20 years they were probably made perfectly and are more likely to last another 20 years than the bearing your about to put on.

#22

jlucas wrote:

Yeah, I went to the bimmerparts site, which is usually where I order mine. Wasn’t sure which one to order. There was a bearing hub, and an assembly.

Have some play in the RF, and I have no idea how long its been on there. I figured I would be doing some auto-x, or a track day this summer, so might as well do it now.

#23

You need the assembly. Call Chris and ask what price he can give you.
Ed

#24

get em from bimmerparts. tough to beat their pricing on items like that and they are a sponsor.

#25

Chris at Bimmerparts will not steer you wrong. He picks what works best and he knows how we use our cars.

For reattaching the inner CV on the diff output flange I would not use red perm Loctite as you will need to pull the CV in the future if you race the car. Heating the bolts to loosen them in the future will kill the CV. Just torque them down and recheck torque before ever race or race weekend. You should be going over the car anyway as things will loosen up. If you want, put a paint line on the bolt and flange. If its not lined up next time it has loosened. I do that for most of my major areas that will hurt if they come loose and it makes for quick inspection between races over a weekend. You should still recheck torque even if you do use paint lines on a regular basis in case they were not torque right the first time.

Jason

#26

The blue loctite is less perm than the red. Works pretty well, but shouldn’t be a replacement for checking the car over once in a while.