Replacing wheel bearings as preventative maint.

#1

Apparently many the club boys replace their bearings every other year or so as preventative maint. My bearings were all orig. Last Fall I replaced the front left because there was play and growly noises. Chasing after more growly noises I replaced front right a couple months ago.

If you replace wheel studs when replacing front bearings, the bearing replacement effort is pretty trivial, as long as you have an impact wrench. If you are out of your mind and want to save $25 by re-using your old wheel studs, you’ll have some serious torch work in front of you trying to get your old studs out. This is only really a pita the very first time because it takes a while to figure out just how roaring hot you have to get the torch. The second time you’ll put the torch at roaring immediately and the studs will come out without too much difficulty.

So anyways…replacing the other front wheel bearing a couple months ago didn’t stop the growly clunky noises so I got to thinking about replacing my rear bearings. But there was no play in the rear bearings at all, and the job looked hard enough that I wasn’t too sure I wanted to try a DIY.

Then Al (rackeu) K found a local shop that would replace rear wheel bearings for $200 a side, a really good price. They did both of mine today. They said both of my rear bearings were shot. I’ve no more growly clunky noises.

Our cars are old. If you’re running original wheel bearings, I’d replace them.

#2

Man this is definitely not a job I am looking forward to. Did the $200 include parts? $800 in labor makes it worth doing it myself. Are there any good picture install guides on any of the various E30 websites?

#3

$200 is labor. I bought my replacement bearings a while ago so I don’t recall exactly what I paid for them. But I bet you can get them for $60ish a side if you shop around.

My normal shop wanted $400 labor a side.

#4

Y’all live in the wrong place. 150 total/both sides is the price here, and I even loan my bearing removal tool to the tech that does the bearings:)

Note…most, if not all, bearings will exhibit excessive play before they fail. Therefore, when you are changing tires, always check for play…grab tire at 12 and 6 o’clock and rock back and forth…no play is good…some play with no noise will probably get you through the weekend, but change before next race. Noise and play…change immediately: your life depends on it. Chuck

BTW…if you have the proper tool, change can be made with car on the trailer.

#5

cwbaader wrote:

[quote]Y’all live in the wrong place. 150 total/both sides is the price here, and I even loan my bearing removal tool to the tech that does the bearings:)
[/quote]

Hmmm. How are the schools in your area? That’ll be the first thing the wife asks.

#6

They did tell me “it’s all in the tool that you have”

#7

still a pain even with the tool. i would replace them every 2 years anyways.

#8

It is all in the tool. For $400 you can get the master kit. For cheaper you can get the BMW bits only.

http://www.sirtools.com/B90.htm

I have used this on a number of different cars and it works like a charm. The PDF gives you a clue on how to use it.

#9

The B90 BMW looks like the ticket. The prices really varied on Google:

http://www.toolsource.com/wheel-bearing-p-104185.html

$247 with a free carbon fiber digital caliper sounds sweet. Anyone know of a better price?

#10

http://www.sirtools.com/B90.htm

This is the tool I own. I have just the BMW bits and it works great. I can do a rear bearing in about an hour. It is only difficult when things have not been taken a part in a while. When I put the half shafts back in, I use anti-sieze so they come out easy the next time. The job also goes smoother if you buy new backing plates. Trying to reuse them, after bending them up from getting things apart, is not worth the trouble.

Allan

#11

78kona wrote:

[quote]http://www.sirtools.com/B90.htm

This is the tool I own. I have just the BMW bits and it works great. I can do a rear bearing in about an hour. It is only difficult when things have not been taken a part in a while. When I put the half shafts back in, I use anti-sieze so they come out easy the next time. The job also goes smoother if you buy new backing plates. Trying to reuse them, after bending them up from getting things apart, is not worth the trouble.[/quote]
A slight mod to the tool allows the bearings to be changed w/o damaging the backing plates. What is needed is a pad to fit between the backing plate/hub and press frame. I use a couple of pieces of 5/8" aluminum.

#12

Just did the right front along with my brakes because of a loud groaning sound when I make a left at speed. Now I still have a faint groaning and pedal vibration when turning left. Do I just need a bearing, retainer and nut for each side.

#13

If you want to replace left front you do.

It could be your right rear tho.

#14

I think it might have just been a couple of loose wheel bolts after replacing the bearing and brakes. I should have drove around the block and then re-torqued them.

#15

Is there a preferred brand of wheel bearing? I am guessing they are not all built alike.

-Scott

#16

If you get FAG, SKF or Timken(SP?)you will be fine. All are quality brands and cover bearings for most if not all German marques.

#17

Looking for what I need to buy here as far as a bearing goes. I haven’t taken the thing apart yet, but when I looked on Bimmerparts.com all I could find was the REAR wheel bearing. Do the fronts come as part of the hub?

#18

For the front wheels you get a hub and bearing assembly. For the rears only a bearing.

#19

So, what does the specE30 crowd recommend for places to buy these parts from?

#20

Bimmerparts.com & ElephantMotorsports.com are the ones I’ve used the most.