Replacing Lug Bolts with Wheel Studs


“8.7.1.Use of wheel studs to replace lug bolts is allowed, and highly recommended.”

I have recently been repairing and replacing parts on the front suspension to include the strut housing and came across the above regulation. I can tell the wheel hubs and bearing need replacing and was wondering if anyone has applied the modification to their E30. I have checked on pelican parts but do not sell a conversion kit (that I could find). Is this juice worth the squeeze? Please advise on the right way to install wheel studs.



Should be done to new bearings only!!! In addition, the back of the wheel flange needs to be machined so the heads of the studs will sit flat…that is very important. The rears are easier, just drill and press in the studs. I would suggest ARP studs.


Thanks for the info!


Most people use this type of stud conversion:
No machining required.

As opposed to press in studs (which are similar to what non Germany OEs use):


Yeah, what Jeremy said. I use BW too, but they aren’t the only supplier. Several sites sell race studs that bolt in using factory threads, so no machining required. Have never had one back out. A little bit of Locktite, and a few nights outside to pick up a patina of surface rust, and they are good to go.


I use the shorter Vorshlag ones that utilize every thread of my Vorshlag steel lug nuts even with a 10mm spacer. I install them with red thread locker, and I have removed and reinstalled them in front bearings twice, and they still work great.


How do you get the extended studs out? I’ve tried the double nut method, but using a lot of force, both nuts will just spin. I feel like i’m to the point of putting too much twisting action on the stud to even consider reusing it. I will buy a new set now, but for future reference i’m just wondering if there is some trick i’m missing.


Heat. I use a MAPP torch to heat up the base of the stud, and it loosens the red loc-tite nicely. If you’re just replacing studs and not the wheel bearing, you would want to be cautious not to overheat the bearing itself.


Oh do they come with red loc tite on them? I’ve never actually ordered a set as the car came with them almost new.


I’ve never seen new studs that came with thread locker on them, although that’s possible. Normal installation is to use red loc-tite so they don’t back out. If your studs were already installed when you got the car, it’s a pretty safe assumption that’s what you’ve got.


I have not seen studs “come with” red locktite.

I’m sure experiences vary, but in the times I’ve removed stods, I’ve had to torch the ever-livin’-shit out of them to burn away the red locktite.

Re. getting new studs. Get 90mm bullet nose. They are nice and long, and the bullet nose shape starts the nut nicesly.


I’ve seen various wheel studs that come with a thread locker pre-applied. Not sure if it’s “Loctite Red ™” or something else, but it’s there.


Cool thanks for the help guys. I might try to get these out for practice. I’m not sure of the length but i do have the bullet nose ones.


Even with the torch, a cheater bar and plenty of help, I fought and fought to get the studs out the first time I changed a wheel bearing on my car. After eventually getting the first one out, we discovered that at some point in the car’s life, the studs had been tack welded on the back side of the hub flange. Needless to say, those studs weren’t getting reused. At that point, I resolved that I would never again go through this at the track. My two-stage plan involved: 1) Not welding the studs in; 2) Getting an extra set of studs and preinstalling in my spare hub. Never mind that I still haven’t done step 2, I still highly recommend it as that will probably cut your time in half if you need to swap the hub between races.


True just having new studs to install is definitely the easier option. I ended up using some extra lug bolts for my first hub swap out before the last event.