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87 is.
how do ya get to the bolts with the vibration ring???
tight!
[attachment=1565]VirbrationDamper.jpg[/attachment]
Guess I need to drop the exhaust, ctr support and rear tranny support, tilt tranny down and slide the drive shaft out to access???
thanks for advice!
With the car in gear and Ebrake on, loosen all 6 bolts at the guibo before removing any of them.
Paint a mark on the drive shaft where it separates into two pieces near the CSB so the two halfs of the drive shaft can be put back together on the same splines they were on.
Unfasten the CSB from the frame and let it drop a bit. If you play around a bit with the drive shaft and CSB you should be able to do everything w/o fooling with the exhaust.
Undo the 6 bolts at the quibo and push the driveshaft back 2" so you can get the guibo off. Note which direction the bolts went thru the guibo. Use blue locktite when you put those bolts back in.
I’ve not replaced a CSB so someone else will have to chime in.
Later edit. I’m thinking now that it’s the vibration damper you’re fighting with. I can’t help you there I’ve not fooled with that either.
Are you saying the yoke (trans output shaft) will pull out of the tranny so I can get a socket on the forward hard to reach bolts. I can’t get access to them with that darn vibration damper!
Thanks Ranger!
Anyone know if the CSB is pressed on or not?
The yoke/output shaft will not pull out of the tranny. Basically any bolts/nuts you see at the front or back of the driveshaft will need to be removed. I remember some of them being hard to access, but I was able to do it with a set of wrenches and sockets in a culdesac prior to hauling my busted $800 1987 325is home to start my SpecE30 build. I would recommend removing the exhaust, tranny bracket, and the whole driveshaft to do the CSB. Throw the vibration damper in the trash can when you are done. I would get the bolts/lock nuts from Robert/Peerless on e30tech when you reassemble:
I ended up buying a remanufactured driveshaft with a new CSB instead of messing with replacing the CSB on a 20+ year old driveshaft. I will have to check my spare CSB to see if it is pressed on or not.
On the driveshaft I used for my 'vert manual swap, there was a large nut at the splines that had to be loosened in order to collapse the two halves together. It was an absolute b!tch even with a gigantic open end wrench (mostly because the wrench was longer than the height I had to play with on jack stands).
The CSB was pressed on. It was relatively easy to beat the old one off and I used a section of pipe and lots of gentle taps to seat the new one. There are early and late CSBs. Getting the wrong one will delay the project a couple days. Axe me how I know…
GOT IT!
yup, loosen the cap at the spline and the bolts (easy ones) to the tranny output shaft then collapse the driveshaft. Next time will be done in half the time 
thanks ALL
Headin to VIR 